Nope, dosnt move when rotated, I went ahead and put it in the freezer for about 30 minutes, it opened up about 3/4 open, then I took it out and let it warm up a bit in the house, while the oven heated up to 200 degrees, then put it in there for about 20 minutes, it closed almost all the way, the cresent shaped hole was about 1/8 inch from closed.

 

Justin,

It is reacting right but it should be closed at 100F. Actually if you are getting enough fuel at cold start, this should cause the idle to go too high. Have you checked the connection at the cold start valve for 12 volts when it first starts?

Dennis

 

Try checking the resistance on the tempII sensor to see if it is bad. Simple check with a volt meter, I just can't remember the numbers at the moment. If it is the problem, a new one at napa is $23. I replaced mine for the hell of it. I too have been having the same symptoms as yours. I believe mine may be a FPR. If you have a fuel pressure gauge installed, check to see if the pressure holds for at least 10 minutes after the car is shut off. Mine drops to zero right away, so something isn't right. I just haven't had time to check it out. Hope that helps.

Chris
81 auto

 

Where do you want me to check for 12volts at? The AAV connection? Right now the car is apart, I havnt put the AAV back on yet.

 

Sorry. Just corrected my post. Check for 12 volts at the cold start valve.

Dennis

 

Can I just turn the key on or do I have to crank it? I checked for resistance on the AAV, there is none. I also checked the temp semsor, the one on the bottom of the thermostat housing it also had none, the sensor on top did have some with or without the key on.

 

Dennis - re the flow direction - the inlet comes from below throttle plate up to the cold start injector adapter, cant do much else. It cant be mounted the other way around, as the hoses wont fit, and the electrical plug wont reach IMHO, as the mounting screw holes are not central on the length. FWIW, 3 diagrams of the valve in Watson all show air entering from the side of the bimetallic strip, the opposite of the way its installed on CIS cars AFAIK, certainly on mine.
Before I fixed my valve, mine would start ok, idle a bit low, then about 1-1.5 minutes after start, commence surging from maybe 600 to 800 rpm for a couple of minutes, and then it would stabilize closer to 750-800 and be fine from there on. I would also check the heater circuit for continuity - wsm lists resistance as 10-40 ohms IIRC. Mine was ~20ohms.
Mine was also poor at starting half warm (more cranking than I liked), and on at least one occasion when I had pressure gauge on it, did not hold pressure for the specified time. When I replaced the tank last year I pulled the accumulator, and it was wet under the top screw (some early cars had a tube back to tank from here, mine was sealed with a screw), so I replaced it - now starts fine when half hot.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k

 

Quote: would also check the heater circuit for continuity - wsm lists resistance as 10-40 ohms IIRC. Mine was ~20ohms
Where do I test this?
TIA

 

Anybody have any ideas?

 

What does the upper micro-switch do? Just richen the fuel at WOT?

 

Justin, put a meter across the contact pins in the socket of the AAV to check the heater circuit for the bimetallic strip. Alos check the plug for this has 12V across its contacts on first startup, or maybe just ign on..?
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k

 

Justin,

You should also check each connector for a circuit to ground. If one or both have a circuit to ground the AAV is bad and needs replaced. Before replacing anything, you should probably make sure that everything is in a good state of tune with no vacuum leaks or leaking injectors. Too much fuel or way too much air at cold start can also cause the same symptoms you are seeing.

JP,

Both the 928 and my 931 have the AAV in the same orientation. Don't remember how the 924 was set up.

Dennis