Sticky Brakes??
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,402
Likes: 3
From: Bristow, VA
ugh. Just read this thread and am not finding it comforting news. I have an '87 and want to go through and rebuild everything. What was the cut-off for 'new-vs-old' style? Are there some visual queues? Why the hell would anyone stop selling just seals? Something like this shouldn't cost more than $20/wheel?? I just spent months and months waiting for suspension, I would rather not go through a similar experience again for parts that should be relatively cheap.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 7
From: Dubuque, Iowa.
Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
The Brembo's on my 79 came from an eary 87S4 (build date is late 86) - so kits without the pistons are available for these?
My front calipers were so bad, my power bleeder could not push fluid through them (last bleed was at least 6 years prior). I needed a helper to push on the brake pedal with the power bleeder attached. After two bottles super blue fluid, I gave up, installed the pads (this was last year, ran two DE's with the car). Now I plan to pull the calipers, see what spraying some brake clean through them does, if I cannot find rebuild kits.
My front calipers were so bad, my power bleeder could not push fluid through them (last bleed was at least 6 years prior). I needed a helper to push on the brake pedal with the power bleeder attached. After two bottles super blue fluid, I gave up, installed the pads (this was last year, ran two DE's with the car). Now I plan to pull the calipers, see what spraying some brake clean through them does, if I cannot find rebuild kits.
Addict
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 620
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From: Endwell, New York
Here are some pictures someone posted a while back. First pic is of the early style brembo piston/scraper ring/pressure seal.
Here is a pic of the newer style piston/dust boot/pressure seal.
You will want to check with PET to verify the diameters of the pistons in the calipers as they were changed from year to year. Before you are buy anything make sure you can return it for a refund/exchange if it is not the right size. Good Luck!
Here is a pic of the newer style piston/dust boot/pressure seal.
You will want to check with PET to verify the diameters of the pistons in the calipers as they were changed from year to year. Before you are buy anything make sure you can return it for a refund/exchange if it is not the right size. Good Luck!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,674
Likes: 265
From: Southwest
Sweet!!! Paul, is there lube in around the piston?
Originally Posted by Paul D
Here are some pictures someone posted a while back. First pic is of the early style brembo piston/scraper ring/pressure seal.
Here is a pic of the newer style piston/dust boot/pressure seal.
You will want to check with PET to verify the diameters of the pistons in the calipers as they were changed from year to year. Before you are buy anything make sure you can return it for a refund/exchange if it is not the right size. Good Luck!
Here is a pic of the newer style piston/dust boot/pressure seal.
You will want to check with PET to verify the diameters of the pistons in the calipers as they were changed from year to year. Before you are buy anything make sure you can return it for a refund/exchange if it is not the right size. Good Luck!
Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 703
Likes: 17
From: Australia
Apparently the inner compound in the flexible brake hoses can 'age' and as it deteriorates it tends to block the inner tube - a bit like hardening of the arteries. This means that when the brake is released some pressure stays in the line on the piston side the blockage. This then holds the pads against the rotor with a small force - enough to build up heat. If you do remove the rotors you should also check that the flexible hoses are intact inside.
Addict
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 620
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From: Endwell, New York
Darien - When I reassembled the calipers I used a modelers paint brush and dabbed clean brake fluid in the piston bores and pressure seals and the pistons themselves. They slid right in and have been working fine with no issues.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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CRC makes a red brake grease that makes a good assembly lube and helps to keep the bore frome crusting up as it fills the gap between the two seals. An alternative to a rebuild is to clean the pistons with spray silicone and a rag and then retract them. Force them back out and repeat until they free up. Also, it is important to make sure the pads themselves are not binding in the caliper housings. The pistons could be fine and it could be that the pads are not retracting due to corrosion around the edges. This is a very common problem, so check out the pad mounting surfaces as part of your R&R Good luck !
Administrator
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 27,567
Likes: 3,092
From: Up Nort
Originally Posted by fraggle
Forgive my ignorance - piston squirters? Bear in mind I haven't taken anything apart yet so something that might be obvious had I done so currently isn't.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,402
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From: Bristow, VA
doh that was all I could think of!!! But figured I couldn't be that far off. swallowed the hook, granted.
I figured, at minimum, I'll tear everything apart and clean it all. I'm just worried that if something goes "wrong" during disassembly (which NEVER happens) I won't have a source for spares.
I'm considering having some custom made. Is that possible? I have 'sources' in the high-tech industry that make all sorts of crazy stuff.
I figured, at minimum, I'll tear everything apart and clean it all. I'm just worried that if something goes "wrong" during disassembly (which NEVER happens) I won't have a source for spares.
I'm considering having some custom made. Is that possible? I have 'sources' in the high-tech industry that make all sorts of crazy stuff.
