Broken exhaust manifold studs. Remove engine or just heads?
#1
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Broken exhaust manifold studs. Remove engine or just heads?
I know it's probably covered in the vast information in this site , but I'm not real good at searching it yet. Also my first thread so I'm hoping I'm doing it right. Was looking at my recently purchased 80 Euro with the idea of getting it safetied when I discovered the usual. Need CV boots, Ebrake cable etc. Was very suprised to find the back exhaust manifold stud on both heads are AWOL. They appear to be broken off flush with the head and I can't see any way to remove them without pulling the heads or the whole motor. Any ideas as to which is easier and faster? HELP!
Sparky
Sparky
#2
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You would probably be better off pulling the engine unless you have some other reason for removing the heads. I would suggest that you change the oil pan gasket and T-belt water pump service when the engine is out. It would also be prudent to consider changing ALL the exhaust studs since you have no way to know how "experienced" they might be.
#3
I was able to remove both of the broken rear exaust studs in the car when I added the headers to my prior 928. Used a right angl drill, left handed bit and a small tap in extractor.
#4
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Pull the motor. Then you can do everything else while in there. If you don't want to rebuild it, just get a gasket kit and freshen it up. CIS motors are easy to pull, no wire harness to snake through the firewall for example. Here is a write up I recently made, detailing the removal from my 79. If yours is an automatic, it should be the same.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/243918-engine-removal-and-installation-checklist.html
Good luck.
Rich
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/243918-engine-removal-and-installation-checklist.html
Good luck.
Rich
#5
Captain Obvious
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Sparky,
Does the shop require you to change the stud for the safety? Does manifold leak?
I work in Brampton and live in Cambridge (Gerogetown is not that much out of my way), so if you want I can come over and take a look. Maybe there is a way to get that stupid out without removing the head or the engine.
I don’t think Sparky wants to pull the engine. He just bought the car so I’m sure getting it on the road as soon as possible is the main goal.
Does the shop require you to change the stud for the safety? Does manifold leak?
I work in Brampton and live in Cambridge (Gerogetown is not that much out of my way), so if you want I can come over and take a look. Maybe there is a way to get that stupid out without removing the head or the engine.
I don’t think Sparky wants to pull the engine. He just bought the car so I’m sure getting it on the road as soon as possible is the main goal.
#6
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I have a couple of broken studs, and it only makes the 'pfft, pfft, pfft' noise if the car has been sitting for a week or more in cold weather. It goes away after a mile or two.
It goes along with the lifter noise that happens after not driving for a week. That takes a bit longer to go away, but it also goes away.
I'm waiting until I pull the engine before I tackle those studs.
It goes along with the lifter noise that happens after not driving for a week. That takes a bit longer to go away, but it also goes away.
I'm waiting until I pull the engine before I tackle those studs.
#7
Nordschleife Master
I'm in the pull-the-engine camp as well.
I fixed two broken studs from below with the engine in the car. Used a right-angle attachement and cut-down bits. One included drilling out a broken EZ-out. This was not a good time. The results were also poor. I eventually got the heads to a machine shop...and they looked at me like I was nuts for having done it!
I fixed two broken studs from below with the engine in the car. Used a right-angle attachement and cut-down bits. One included drilling out a broken EZ-out. This was not a good time. The results were also poor. I eventually got the heads to a machine shop...and they looked at me like I was nuts for having done it!
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#9
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thanks for all the input guys. imo000 is right I would like to get it on the road and the shop hasn't said I have to fix them cause I haven't taken it in to anyone yet. I just discovered while trying to locate this noise I hadn't heard when I bought it. Think I'll pull the motor in the fall and replace all the studs and do everything else while I'm there.(maybe some headers and a blower or a turbo??? he-he) Would like to know though, s928s are you double jointed or work in the circus or something? I can barely see how you could get a socket up in there let alone a drill. You get my respect for have the patience. Thanx again and Imo000 I'm on day shift next week if you want to pop by and have a look give me a call.
sparky
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Would like to know though, s928s are you double jointed or work in the circus or something?
Pulling the motor in the fall is a good idea
Marton
#14
Captain Obvious
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Originally Posted by sparky928
thanks for all the input guys. imo000 is right I would like to get it on the road and the shop hasn't said I have to fix them cause I haven't taken it in to anyone yet. I just discovered while trying to locate this noise I hadn't heard when I bought it. Think I'll pull the motor in the fall and replace all the studs and do everything else while I'm there.(maybe some headers and a blower or a turbo??? he-he) Would like to know though, s928s are you double jointed or work in the circus or something? I can barely see how you could get a socket up in there let alone a drill. You get my respect for have the patience. Thanx again and Imo000 I'm on day shift next week if you want to pop by and have a look give me a call.
sparky
sparky
The rest of the studs should have enough pressure on the manifold to prevent it from leaking.
My intercooler is getting welded up today so by next week I should have the car back together and ready for the road. I’ll send you a PM so we can meet up. I wouldn’t mind taking a look at your 928. Besides the CV Boots and the E-brake cable, what else does it need for safety?