dead shark
#31
Rocket Pilot
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Jim, If I got fuel in the cylinders and great spark, everything I have ever learned says I should be driving this beast! Bill I will try that right away. Macreel , temp 2 is fine (brand new plus swapped with a known good one) I really believe the belt is fine and Bill ***** advice was applied to this for an earlier test after Jim B. suggested the belt. Sometimes I miss my 300hp euros- very simple to navigate and solve problems.
#32
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Your plugs are probably wet. If your spark was only badly mistimed you'd probably get some popping or something. A bad LH might have wet down the plugs badly and until that is sorted it will not run.
You could try disconnecting the fuel pump relay and cranking (a lot, in 30 sec intervals with decent cool-down time for the starter) to clear it out if you did not want to pull the plugs.
-Joel.
You could try disconnecting the fuel pump relay and cranking (a lot, in 30 sec intervals with decent cool-down time for the starter) to clear it out if you did not want to pull the plugs.
-Joel.
#33
Drifting
Originally Posted by Kevin Michael
hey guys, Is the crank position sensor on the 5 spd 87 supposed to be all loose and sloppin around? I!
Originally Posted by Kevin Michael
I also can't figure out why my crank sensor is so loose and i still have exc. spark!
Also you have to air out your cylinders, hydro-lock.
#34
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Requirements for a running engine:
- Fuel (Proper fuel/air ratio, which requires reasonable fuel pressure, good fuel, injection system working - which includes MAF, Temp II, LH ECU, etc.)
- Air (Proper fuel/air ratio, which means free flow of air in addition to the fuel requirements)
- Fire (Hot spark on functional plugs at the correct time)
- Compression (Minimum of 80 - 90 psig, which requires proper cam timing, good valves, etc.)
Injectors "chattering"???
If you turn the ignition switch on, and the injectors chatter with the engine sitting still, the LH ECU is faulty...
- Fuel (Proper fuel/air ratio, which requires reasonable fuel pressure, good fuel, injection system working - which includes MAF, Temp II, LH ECU, etc.)
- Air (Proper fuel/air ratio, which means free flow of air in addition to the fuel requirements)
- Fire (Hot spark on functional plugs at the correct time)
- Compression (Minimum of 80 - 90 psig, which requires proper cam timing, good valves, etc.)
Injectors "chattering"???
If you turn the ignition switch on, and the injectors chatter with the engine sitting still, the LH ECU is faulty...
#35
Fleet of Foot
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Originally Posted by Jfrahm
Your plugs are probably wet. If your spark was only badly mistimed you'd probably get some popping or something. A bad LH might have wet down the plugs badly and until that is sorted it will not run.
You could try disconnecting the fuel pump relay and cranking (a lot, in 30 sec intervals with decent cool-down time for the starter) to clear it out if you did not want to pull the plugs.
-Joel.
You could try disconnecting the fuel pump relay and cranking (a lot, in 30 sec intervals with decent cool-down time for the starter) to clear it out if you did not want to pull the plugs.
-Joel.
#36
Fleet of Foot
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Originally Posted by tv
The crank sensor is a very rigid item that fits very snugly in its place. The top is black plastic covering a big magnet, it is screwed in at top by 1 little screw. It should not move at all.
#37
Team Owner
Hi try this get a new set of plugs remove the old ones turn the engine ove by hand, a 27 mm deep socket will do just fine ceck the crank and the tops of the cams for the correct timing marks turn the engine at least 4 complete turns, install the new plugs make shure theat the 14 pin connector is solidly connected by the pass side cross brace, start the car. If everything else is working then the engine should run make shure the wires are connected to the temp 2 sensor and they are not crossed internally.
For a fuel pressure gauge remove the front cap on the right fuel rail go to the speed shop and get a 1 inch diameter fuel pressure gauge I have a 0 to 60 psi on mine drill the cap not shure of the size but a little bit bigger thatn a pen also you need to get a pipe tap so as to make the threads tapered for the gauge to screw into dont run the tap all the way through the cap test fit it a few times you want the gauge to screw intro the cap atleast 4 turns and install the gauge install the cap without the ball seal and run the pump and check for leaks also have a fire extinguisher handy,
For a fuel pressure gauge remove the front cap on the right fuel rail go to the speed shop and get a 1 inch diameter fuel pressure gauge I have a 0 to 60 psi on mine drill the cap not shure of the size but a little bit bigger thatn a pen also you need to get a pipe tap so as to make the threads tapered for the gauge to screw into dont run the tap all the way through the cap test fit it a few times you want the gauge to screw intro the cap atleast 4 turns and install the gauge install the cap without the ball seal and run the pump and check for leaks also have a fire extinguisher handy,
#38
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Wally, the chatter is only when I am cranking. I did an Lh and EZK swap from my well running other 87. Swapped all relays. I have plenty of fuel and spark. I had to yank the fans so I could spin the motor and check the marks. Once around dead on the marks 2 more times to TDC and sweet, right on the marks. (using Bill's sugg. to line em' up on the cam cover ports. That is alot easier than pulling the covers. Thorough engineering on these machines, fellas. Anyway I let the car sit 3 wks. with the exception of one start fri. night so I could see the look on my 911 owner friends face. It was beautiful. (no offense as I also own 2 911's) regardless it was only run for a minute. Then mon. this happens. The battery was very weak when I tried to start it mon. but I kept cranking and cranking till the batt. died. i am thinking I had a flood cond. and I just kept soaking the thing and here we are. I am not even getting so much as a maybe on a start, just steady crankin'. I am going to try new plugs and another LH swap as well as a fresh battery. Bill I'm glad I thought o'that!
#39
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Originally Posted by Bill Swift
Yes, if you have yet to address this problem, it is the next thing you should do. Still amazed you have any spark at all though, it must still be reading the flywheel
#40
Fleet of Foot
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What you are describing might be the factory timing connector, not the crank sensor. The engine will run without that! Does it have 3 pins in the end that is not connected to anything?
#42
Captain Obvious
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Unless you let the engine sit for a bit (perhaps a day) the plugs will be too wet to give any spark. All you need to do is remove them and let them dry. No need to buy new ones.
Since you said that there is fuel, then it's either timing or spark. The easiest way to check the spark would be to pull the boot off and place another (spare) spark plug in it, then crank it over. If there is strong spark in all the cylinders, then the problem is timing related.
Now, If you already checked the timing marks and they are correct then it has to be the referece sensor at fault.
It's a process of elimination, but till now (until you said you smelt gas) we didn't know what was NOT the problem and that was the injectors.
Since you said that there is fuel, then it's either timing or spark. The easiest way to check the spark would be to pull the boot off and place another (spare) spark plug in it, then crank it over. If there is strong spark in all the cylinders, then the problem is timing related.
Now, If you already checked the timing marks and they are correct then it has to be the referece sensor at fault.
It's a process of elimination, but till now (until you said you smelt gas) we didn't know what was NOT the problem and that was the injectors.
#43
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I am at this moment installing new and properly gapped plugs(back to stock) , a fresh battery,and after that I will once again swap the LH and EZK from my other 87, and we will see........