Rod Underwood

I'm trying to chase down a VERY rough start. I checked the aux. air regulator and found that it was about 3/4 closed when cold - roughly 70 degrees. WSM says it should be open when cold. I hooked it up to 12V direct and let it sit and it began to close. This makes me believe it works, if not adjusted perfectly.

I checked and it has continuity when removed from the engine.

I checked the plug and it has no power, none when engine switched off, none when ignition switch is on.

I replaced the unit with a 9/16in socket (the only piece of "pipe" that I had that was the right size) and it started right up and ran like a top, but when it warmed up, it idled at about 2400 rpm, which would suggest as the workshop manual indictes, it should be closed.

I can get it to idle down by almost closing the control / bypass screw on the throttle housing. Is this a problem? I'm not intending for it to be a long term solution.

My question is regarding the absense of power at the plug?

Any thoughts on a Saturday evening?

I also can't find the referenced adjustment for fuel/air mixture which is indicated on the passenger front of the intake.

Thanks
Rod

Not that anyone cares, but I installed new shocks, new lower ball joints, replacing the aluminim death traps, and upper ball joint boots. It was a great time.

Followup:
Well, I disassembled the aux. air regulator and after some testing, determined it was working, it just needs to be under power for a while for the bimetalic strip to work. (those rivets must be lead, they come out hard, but are easily replaced with machine screws. )

I reinstalled it and adjusted the coltrol/bypass screw back out and it now idles at about 800, and seems to be working. I still don't understand why and can't find it in the WSM what determines power to this regulator. Is it possible the the temp sensor II controls it? If so, when should I be getting voltage?

jpitman2

i AM ALSO looking inot this puppy. My wiring diags show its powered off the fuel pump relay along with WUR on CIS. If you dont have +12 at the plug with ign on, I would suspect a physical connection failure between the plug and the main board....sure you got the meter probe into the plug properly?
My problem is that the thing doesnt seem to be opening more than say 1/3rd - ie off the cold car, 15 mins in freezer, back up to 65F/21C , no visible change in opening. Drilling the rivets out wont damage anything inside, and its easy to seal up again?
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k.

jpitman2

I put it in the freezer down to 28F, barely opened more than it was at 65F. Drilled out the rivets, opened it up. In the end I softened the spring trying to close it against the bi-metallic bar to get it to open more. Now at 28F its 80% open instead of ~30%. Application of 12V for ~4 minutes brings it 99% closed - a hole maybe 1/8 x 1/16 is all thats left. That I can retrim the idle screw to handle if needed.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k....testing tomorrow.

Rod Underwood

I need to go back in and check it again. I've just about replaced everything else. I think next time I go in, I'll check it opening and closing with it plugged into it's own circuit and not just apply power from an external source . At least that should tell me if I'm getting activity when the key is on.

When you say you softened the spring, do you mean you used a weaker one or did you take some of the temper out of the spring? That seems like it would be hard to judge?

Thanks for the feedback.

Rod

jpitman2

I stretched the spring bit by bit, until at 28F I had ~80% opening. Then I applied 12V from a workshop battery, and after ~4-5 mins, it was shut all but maybe 1/8" x 1/16" hole. I fitted it this morning, and at 15C/60F I got ~1200rpm idle. Just need to warm it right up and recheck the hot idle, but thats easy to fix....
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k