m21sniper

Just spent the last 2.5 hours scraping sound deadening. I took off everything but the stuff on the firewall and center trans tunnel(for heat/fire safety issues). I would estimate that by volume i got about 65-70% of the sound deadening.

Weight was precisely 28.5lbs for all material removed.

3 free horseys for me.

Thaddeus

Nice.

I'm 30 pounds faster too, since 1/1/06. But the weight didn't come off the car. It came off of ME.

3 horsies for me as well, but I sweated more than you to get them...

m21sniper

LOL, same end result is all that matters.
If i lost 30lbs i'd evaporate into thin air...LOL.

Lance J

its true lol

Randy V

Based on the title, I thought you had cut your hair.

m21sniper

LOL!

You know i actually DID cut my hair right around Christmas time Randy.

I donated it so they could make wigs for the kids with cancer.

There was definitely at least 5lbs worth, it was halfway down my back.
To boot i quit smoking after 20years cold turkey the day after the superbowl and have not touched one since.

I look and even feel almost respectible now...

I want to tackle the bumpers and do a rear seat delete, and maybe lose the sunroof motor, and that's really about it.

Going any further would be to convert it into a defacto track car(ie no interior). Right now under the skin she's 'gutted', but on the surface, everything still looks OEM or better. Just don't ask me to turn on the A/C...

IcemanG17

Damm
I've lost 2hp :>( I gained 20 lbs!!! I guess I could remove the spare to make up for it!

m21sniper

LOL!

slate blue

Sorry I don't quite get it, are you saying you left the interior heavy bitumen type sound deadning in? Or are you talking about the engine bay insulation? Because I don't understand how there could be a heat or fire issue with the interior trans tunnel stuff. Man that stuff would burn like mad if it ever caught on fire.

What sound deadning was removed?

Thanks but I'm about to go through this and just want to know what I going to achieve.

Cheers Greg

m21sniper

I took off all the interior deadening/insulation except the stuff over the trans tunnel and the stuff behind the firewall.

If you were to remove the stuff in those areas a LOT more heat would leak into the car, making for a much more uncomfortable ride in the warmer months.

If you pull it all you'll probably get at most another 15lbs of material, but interior temps will be a lot higher due to engine heat.

As far as noise level or vibration, i really couldnt tell much of a difference after i puiled the stuff out(it was already quite broken down when i started the job though).

slate blue

Thanks for your reply, do you have any pics of what you did? Also what about if the exhaust is ceramic coated? And or maybe coating the heat shield? That would stop the heat getting into the cabin, my headers are stainless and coated, those two factors should cut down under bonnet temps. The heavy bitumen style insulation is in fact very heavy, I would have thought that is where the majority of the weight is.

I was thinking about replacing it with compressed fibreglass, it is 13 mm thick and comes in sheets, this would soak up an ernormous amount of noise. I have used this material before in my building work. It is expensive but effective.

Cheers Greg

m21sniper

I would say that if you are going to replace the oem stuff with the 13mm hi-tech stuff you speak of that it would be fine to get rid of all the original OEM deadening/insulation because the new stuff should block heat waves just as well as sound waves(both propogate through a fluid medium on the same principles). The only problem you might run into is heatsoak/saturation and subsequent heat radiation through the new material you use.

The actual scraping was very straightforward. Just pull up the old carpeting and rear seat cushions, and front seats(though to be honest i was able to get almost all the deadening under the seats without pulling them at all- probably about 95% of it anyway) if you want to be very thorough. Also the center consoles(front and rear) if you want to scrape under them will have to be pulled as well.

I used a typical metal paint scraper and a lot of elbow grease. Once you get under the material it breaks up into little honeycomb shaped pieces and a lot of it comes up real easy, probably 90% of it. It's the other 10% that'll break your stones, lol.

I have no idea what's used behind the firewall/under the center console, nor what's involved in removing it, as i decided in advance not to mess with those sections at all. The 928 already has enough problems with unwanted heat in the cockpit, so i just left well enough alone.

I got exactly 28.5lbs worth of material doing about 65-70% of the total interior. A 100% thorough job should yield about 40 to 45lbs of total material.(almost 5 'free' HP worth). Definitely NOT the 75-80lbs i've seen claimed, but still, 40+ lbs is definitely worth the effort.

Weissach

I would NOT be removing the factory sound insulation on a street car(If anything, add another 30lbs). Cars without the insulation start feeling like old POS's..... Do not remove if you want your car to be nice....

m21sniper

If you'd bothered to read the thread(dont mean to start with ya...but this has all been discussed in this thread) you'd see that i said there was no difference in sound or vibration level after i removed the OEM stuff in the old cars because the OEM deadening is almost always broken down. It is literally 'dead weight' at this point.

Regardless, he also stated he is going to use some hi-tech stuff in it's place.

Me, i'd rather have the extra 3hp and a more 'race car' sound/feel.
I assure you i would not have a Borla off-road racing exhaust(EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE!) if i wanted a subtle and refined ride.

16v's are animalistic, much less refined than the silky smooth 32v cars. It's one of the really desirable features of the 16v cars IMO.