Interior Lights
03-08-2006, 05:47 PM
#1
Track Day
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Interior Lights
Hi guys,
O.K I have a 1987 928S4 and I need a new Battery so before I ventured out to buy a new one I thought I should make sure there was no current drain that would obviously need to be sorted before a put the new battery in.
When I hooked up the mutlimeter I discovered that I had a drain of 0.12 Amps which was too high. I expected to get something like 0.05.
Anyway upon further investigation i realised a couple of things.
When all the doors and rear hatch are closed the reading is still aprox 0.12 with no interior lights on BUT after about 30sec it drops to 0.02. I figured this was beacuse of the light dimmer relay. You can actually hear the relay switch of.
O.K so that solves my Battery concern but it poses a new set of problems.
1.Why does the interior light dimmer relay work with the rear hatch as well as the doors. I thought it was only for the doors.
2. Why do none of my interior light work when set to the automatic (i.e door open mode) They only work manually on or off .
3. My rear hatch light turns on both on the on and off position but turns off on the middle auto position ?
I should also point out that :
A) the door pin on the drivers door is missing.
B) The passenger door pin seems to work o.k (as far as measuring amps is concerned because the lights are not triggered my it in the auto position)
C) I can't seem to locate the pin on the rear hatch.
D) I pulled all the fuses yesterday and the current drain dropped when I pulled the light dimmer relay but not as much the same when I pull the interior lights fuse.
E) I checked the red lights on the back of the doors and they were always off.
Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Guys.
O.K I have a 1987 928S4 and I need a new Battery so before I ventured out to buy a new one I thought I should make sure there was no current drain that would obviously need to be sorted before a put the new battery in.
When I hooked up the mutlimeter I discovered that I had a drain of 0.12 Amps which was too high. I expected to get something like 0.05.
Anyway upon further investigation i realised a couple of things.
When all the doors and rear hatch are closed the reading is still aprox 0.12 with no interior lights on BUT after about 30sec it drops to 0.02. I figured this was beacuse of the light dimmer relay. You can actually hear the relay switch of.
O.K so that solves my Battery concern but it poses a new set of problems.
1.Why does the interior light dimmer relay work with the rear hatch as well as the doors. I thought it was only for the doors.
2. Why do none of my interior light work when set to the automatic (i.e door open mode) They only work manually on or off .
3. My rear hatch light turns on both on the on and off position but turns off on the middle auto position ?
I should also point out that :
A) the door pin on the drivers door is missing.
B) The passenger door pin seems to work o.k (as far as measuring amps is concerned because the lights are not triggered my it in the auto position)
C) I can't seem to locate the pin on the rear hatch.
D) I pulled all the fuses yesterday and the current drain dropped when I pulled the light dimmer relay but not as much the same when I pull the interior lights fuse.
E) I checked the red lights on the back of the doors and they were always off.
Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Guys.
03-08-2006, 06:21 PM
#2
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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The problem is the door pins. Replace the missing one and try it again. Order 2 of them since they're cheap and you may need to replace both. You may have trouble getting to the wire where the pin is missing since it's probably fallen to where you can't reach it.
It sounds like the car doesn't ever sense that the doors are open, possibly because the missing pin breaks the circuit. Can you get the alarm to sound by activating it and opening a door to set it off? (roll a window down, close the door, lock it with the alarm key to arm the alarm, wait a moment, and then reach in and open the door). If you can't get the alarm to sound by opening a door, you an also try by arming the alarm and opening the hood.
The pin for the rear hatch is actually part of the rear hatch receiver (bottom portion).
It sounds like the car doesn't ever sense that the doors are open, possibly because the missing pin breaks the circuit. Can you get the alarm to sound by activating it and opening a door to set it off? (roll a window down, close the door, lock it with the alarm key to arm the alarm, wait a moment, and then reach in and open the door). If you can't get the alarm to sound by opening a door, you an also try by arming the alarm and opening the hood.
The pin for the rear hatch is actually part of the rear hatch receiver (bottom portion).
03-08-2006, 06:24 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
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Well...if you aren't the original owner...lots of possiblitiesexist as to why the delay relay is working with your hatch light. Most of them have to do wiith someone hacking into a harness installing a alarm- remote start system...or stereo believe it or not. Or a feeble attempt at repairing a non related issue. But, if you are really lucky, you'll find a car that "sometimes" the hatch will "delay" off...and "sometimes" its instant off. I fixed mine with a new pin switch at the bottom of the hatch lock receiver... YMMV. Good luck 
03-08-2006, 06:37 PM
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Track Day
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Thanks Guys .
The alarm has been disconnected.
I haven't tried to locate and therfore not had a close look at the wiring behind the door pin. What is the best way of accessing it ?
The odd thing is the rear hatch light is wierd in that it only turns off in the middle position .
The alarm has been disconnected.
I haven't tried to locate and therfore not had a close look at the wiring behind the door pin. What is the best way of accessing it ?
The odd thing is the rear hatch light is wierd in that it only turns off in the middle position .
03-08-2006, 11:46 PM
#5
Electron Wrangler
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Reason is: The middle position is off always on all the lights.
One side is permanently on - the other is switched on with the door/hatch & delay relay for the door only. Do you have an aftermarket alarm - thats the only reason the hatch would affect the delay relay AFAIK...?
Pin on the rear hatch is on the bottom of the hatch lock receiver behind the tool cover.
Wiring is inside the panel attached to the pin switch if you don't have this pin switch then its likely been pushed back inside the cavity (bad). If it contacted the metal (it very likly would) the light would be permanently on - maybe someone snipped something as a result?
Alan
One side is permanently on - the other is switched on with the door/hatch & delay relay for the door only. Do you have an aftermarket alarm - thats the only reason the hatch would affect the delay relay AFAIK...?
Pin on the rear hatch is on the bottom of the hatch lock receiver behind the tool cover.
Wiring is inside the panel attached to the pin switch if you don't have this pin switch then its likely been pushed back inside the cavity (bad). If it contacted the metal (it very likly would) the light would be permanently on - maybe someone snipped something as a result?
Alan
Last edited by Alan; 03-09-2006 at 12:19 AM.
03-09-2006, 01:45 AM
#6
Track Day
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Locating the wiring for the missing door pin switch does sound too good from your posts!
Has anyone gone fishing for these wires ? is the cavity accessable from inside the wheel well ?
Has anyone gone fishing for these wires ? is the cavity accessable from inside the wheel well ?