1981 Shark

Hello,

My passenger side electric seat has the three switch/button panel for adjustment

The forward-most switch (see arrow), which is supposed to move the seat forward and backward does not do anything. The other two, which move the seat up and down and recline do work. Is this a sign of a bad switch or a bad motor? Thanks.

Regards,

David

Alan

Who Knows!

The only way to find out is to take the switch plate off - remove that switch and replace with a known good one... one of your others. That should tell you. Otherwise unless you see evidence of current draw when you try to operate the motor or hear any noise you won't know...

Alan

1981 Shark

Alan,

I did just that the other day and NOTHING. The switch did work at one time, but it's not adjusted often, so I don't know when it worked last. But, I guess since that is known, I should look further, beyond the switch. Am I correct in understanding that there are three different motors, one for each direction? If so, any advice on those? Thanks.

Regards,

David

FeedNfrenZ

David, Yes there are 3 motors
1. front up/down
2. rear up/down
3.forward/backwards.
If the switch feels like it's clicking then it's probably okay (note probably worth testing)
Since the forwards/backwards motor is only used by that one switch it could be the motor but I'd say not the motor itself. More likely the wire or gearbox.
Can you hear the motor running? yes= gearbox no=wire
There is an adjustment screw on the gear box that adjust speed/torgue. I've had to adjust mine after Katrina.
The forwards/backwards motor is the one in the center/front between your legs. Easliest to access. There are 2 wires feeding the motor. They are spade connectors. Check them one may have pulled off. If no check them for power during operation? 12 volts with switch pushed= bad motor........ tap it!
could be dirty/stuck.
Now............ this is how my 1990S4 works.......... not sure about yours? Hope this helps!

1981 Shark

Thanks Brent,

As I said, it did work at one time, but I don't spend any time in the passenger seat!

No, I don't hear the motor running, but the switch does "click". I'll check the wiring out further this weekend; maybe that'll be it.

Let me know if you're ever up in the northern part of the state.

Regards,

David

Jim bailey - 928 International

If like most the seat is all the way back it may have over run the threaded part of the adjuster rod and is now jammed since most people "help" the seat go back by pushing on the floor board with their feet. If it is in fact all they way back you may be able to free it by having someone get in the rear seat and push very hard forward on the seat bottom as you click the switch.

crackerfeet

I had problems with both of my seats when I bought my car. I took the switches apart and found that where the metal plate fused to the plactic in the bottom of the switch had melted a little (probably from the switch being kept on after the seat was all the way to the desired position, heating up the switch and causing it to "sink" into the plastic), causing a lip preventing the rocker switch to make contacy with the base plate. Use a cotton swab with electrical contact cleaner on it and see if the cotton "catches" on any plastic at the base plate, if so just dremel away the bubbled up plastic. Also may want to use a continuity tester to confirm. Saved my a$$ from new switches.

P.S. Take the switch apart slowly over a towel on the table as to keep track of the ball bearings inside.

1981 Shark

Jim,
I agree that the seat is probably all the way back.

Wouldn't I still hear the motor run if the switch were working, though?

I'll will try your suggesion by getting a little "push" from one of my sons. Heaven knows they know how to push on the driver's seat!

neilh

What Jim said.....
I had the same problem on my 81. Look under the seat, you will see a manual seat release lever, work at it ( up and down motion) and eventually the seat will slide fore and aft.
Position it about mid way and retry the switch.
If not, get a voltmeter and check that the wire ( number 2 on switch) going to the motor is getting power when you hit the switch, it will be 12 volts in one position and zero in the other as the polarity is switched to rotate the motor in the correct direction. I've attached the wiring diagram, you can see there are also relays and limit switches involved.
Good luck
Neil

1981 Shark

I've taken the switches out of the housing and cleaned a bit, but not taken the switches themselves apart. Looked to be in good shape. I'm suspecting a loose or bad wire based on everyone's responses so far. Thanks.

Will do this first.

Thanks for the diagram. Must get voltmeter...

Silverback66

You can get a really nice multi-tester for the cost of a medium-nice bottle of Scotch, and it will last much longer. I read somewhere that these cars have over a half-mile of electrical wire in them. No idea if it's true, but it would help explain the weight. As with our bodies, every joint declines with age. The multi-tester is sort of a necessary 928 companion.

macreel

1981Shark... me ditto ('84 model). First thing I'd
suggest is remove switch, pop it open (I don't
remember ball bearings, but be careful. I think
they're in later, circular switches).

The contacts need cleaning. Have you got a points file,
from earlier years?? Gentle filing and you could be
in the money. Worked wonders for us.

G'luck.

1981 Shark

Fixed! Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. Actually, my 8-year old son pushed on the back of the seat (many years of practice) and as Jim Bailey said, the seat got back "on track" and started moving. This was done AFTER all the connections were check and the contacts cleaned; again. Still learning my way around and getting more comfortable about DIY. Thanks again!

Regards,
David