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Got Clutch out, Now what????

 
Old 02-09-2006, 09:54 PM
  #46  
Voytek
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Good choice Andrew - I am just repeating other owners advice - this is a system you do NOT want to cut any corners. You will be rewarded for that later.
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Old 02-10-2006, 05:13 AM
  #47  
UKKid35
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Originally Posted by Jim M.
Andrew, you need a puller for the Clutch Pilot bearing: www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4876 It will turn it into a 3-minute job.

Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd
The Harbor Freight puller doesn't actually fit properly, but you can still use it if you use two rather than three prongs.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4876
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Old 02-10-2006, 05:31 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by UKKid35
The Harbor Freight puller doesn't actually fit properly, but you can still use it if you use two rather than three prongs.
I have what looks to be exact same puller and it did work fine with all three. Have used it twice, once to pull out outer race only as it was all that was left and once on entire bearing. Maybe mine is somewhat smaller.

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Old 02-10-2006, 09:23 AM
  #49  
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Brendan, for the dual disk you use the dual disk pressure plate, arm, 
and throwout bearing both of which are not superceded with 
GTS parts. Buy Andrew's arm so he can get one that is correct 
for his single disk.
When I changed the dual disk clutch on my 81s I found the PO had installed a GTS arm. I discovered this because the existing arm was bent and when I bought a new arm it did not fit; I had to buy a new GTS arm.
Been installed for about 1 year without problems.

Sometimes I wonder how the old arm got bent....

Marton
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Old 02-10-2006, 09:34 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Vilhuer
I have what looks to be exact same puller and it did work fine with all three. Have used it twice, once to pull out outer race only as it was all that was left and once on entire bearing. Maybe mine is somewhat smaller.

Dennis gave me his puller last night. Looks almost the same, except it only has 2 hooks. He said it's a tight fit, but it works. We'll see.
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Old 02-16-2006, 05:45 PM
  #51  
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Quick update and question:

I got the pilot bearing out with the aid of Dennis' puller. MF was pretty tough to get out. Got the new one in.

I also, got the updated release arm and have fitted the new TO bearing. Question 1. I could not get the "pivot points" on the new TO bearing to align on the release arm (arm wants to spin). I thought once it's in, I can get the arm hooked onto the ball stud and then rotate the bearing to the correct orientation. Is this possible? Me thinks no. If not, what's the best way to do this?

Right now the clutch is in position with one bolt holding it in place. Question 2. Before I put the rest in and snug everything up, I was wondering if I should scuff up the flywheel or not? Would I just use a sanding block and say, 120 grit paper?

I thought I would have completed it by now, but the wife and kids have had me jumping. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 02-16-2006, 06:44 PM
  #52  
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Q1: huh? I don't understand what you mean by pivot points (blocks on the side of TO?) or rotating the bearing to correct orientation. When everything goes in, the TO should be correctly oriented by the PP and the release arm. The release arm can move up and down and side to side until you get it onto the pivot ball.
Q2: no idea
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Old 02-16-2006, 09:24 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by FlyingDog
Q1: huh? I don't understand what you mean by pivot points (blocks on the side of TO?) or rotating the bearing to correct orientation. When everything goes in, the TO should be correctly oriented by the PP and the release arm. The release arm can move up and down and side to side until you get it onto the pivot ball.
Q2: no idea
Well, aren't you a big help!

On the GTS TO bearing the blocks on the sides of the bearing are triangle shaped with the point being a pivot. Based on how the old one came out (with the release arm loose as you describe), I thought I would be able to position the bearing correctly after I installed it. No dice.

Looks like I'll build a PP compressor and reposition. Thanks.
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Old 02-16-2006, 09:46 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
On the GTS TO bearing the blocks on the sides of the bearing are triangle shaped with the point being a pivot. Based on how the old one came out (with the release arm loose as you describe), I thought I would be able to position the bearing correctly after I installed it.
Andrew, I just looked at the GTS t/o bearing and release arm I have in my parts room. The bearing has two flats 180 degrees apart that match flats on the inner surface of the release arm. If your release arm is turning 75 degrees or so relative to the bearing and then getting hung up then you don't have the flats aligned; you'll need to dismantle the PP and reassemble with the flats mated.

Make any sense?
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Old 02-17-2006, 09:03 AM
  #55  
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Yes... unfortunately it does. When I was putting the TO bearing in, I couldn't get enough clearance to get the snap ring in with the tabs alligned - so I turned them thinking I could orientate them back after the fact. I'll get some stuff to make a press to get it sorted out. I saw some pics in a different thread that make sense now.
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Old 02-17-2006, 01:08 PM
  #56  
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Dave said what I meant.
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Old 02-25-2006, 01:48 PM
  #57  
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First, Thanks to all for their help. The WSM do not have a good writeuo on how to disassemble the S4 and up clutch. It took me the better part of a month to get the thing done (probably a total of 12 hours), but if I had to do it again, 4 hours tops! Although that damn retaining c-clip... what a major PITA! . But it's done now and I have BWaaaaaa! I was expecting the clutch to feel heavier since I upgraded to the GTS clutch, but it feels about the same. The clutch engages much earlier now, which is klind of nice. I tried laying down some rubber, and whereas before I would smoke the clutch... today I smoked the tires! I thought the VW commercial about "My Fast" was cute, and it is, just not fast - I know, because I now have very FAST!

Thanks again to the list and all who helped out! Next up, clear 5MPH bumperettes.
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Old 05-25-2006, 09:33 PM
  #58  
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Hi Andrew

Did your new bearing look the same as the old one, or like the one pictured here?
Attached Images   
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Old 05-26-2006, 12:59 AM
  #59  
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Both the new one and the old one looked like that one in the picture. Probably not the answer you were looking for. I had to construct a press in order to get that damn thing on there. It wasn't pretty, but it got the job done. My neighbor owns a transmission shop. Next time I'll go use his press.
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Old 12-18-2007, 01:40 PM
  #60  
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The release arm part number is (as you can see in the pic above) 928 116 832 07.

... which is... wait for it.... originally for 1984 - 1986 MY 928.

928 116 832 08 is the correct P/N for a '87 through '91.

But 07 is superseded by the 08 and 09. And 08 by 09.

So I got into my clutch housing last night, to find an 07 arm. Per records, my clutch was re-done in 1997, 60K miles ago. Some slippage now under WOT, so WIAAT.......

They replaced:

clutch plate 928.116.013.23
pressure plate 928.116.004.12
clutch release bearing 928.116.085.08
clutch lever bushing 928-116-145-03 928.116.145.03
pilot bearing 928-102-111-02 928.102.111.02
guide tube 928-116-087-16 928.116.087.16

But no arm.

So 1990-91GT's either came with an 07 arm or both Andrew and I had cheapskates R&R'ing our clutches ~10 years ago....



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