Bosch Universal 02 sensor
Gents,
Is anyone running the single wire "universal style 02 sensor" from either Walker or Denso on a 85/86 32 valve S model?.
I know the oem replacement from Bosch is offered in three wire configuration @ $100.00.
The above two mentioned are less than half that but do carry a part # for the 85/86 model.
Thanks RDS
Is anyone running the single wire "universal style 02 sensor" from either Walker or Denso on a 85/86 32 valve S model?.
I know the oem replacement from Bosch is offered in three wire configuration @ $100.00.
The above two mentioned are less than half that but do carry a part # for the 85/86 model.
Thanks RDS
Last edited by RDS928S; Feb 9, 2006 at 08:57 AM.
I guess I misunderstood. If your car came with a 3 wire sensor, you'll want to replace it with a 3 or 4 wire sensor. Universal versions of both are available, but the best deal I've found is a 4 wire Bosch for VW Jettas #16121. It was $21.96 at NAPA. For Bosch O2 sensors, white is heater (polarity doesn't matter), black is sensor signal, and grey (not in 3-wire) is sensor ground.
To splice it into your car, just twist and solder the wires then put some shrink wrap over the connections. It would be preferable to have the splice inside the car. If you use a 4 wire, you can run the sensor ground to a ground point on the frame or splice it to the heater ground (test polarity of white wires first). If using a 4-wire, the closer the sensor ground to the ECU, the better the signal and mixture control.
To splice it into your car, just twist and solder the wires then put some shrink wrap over the connections. It would be preferable to have the splice inside the car. If you use a 4 wire, you can run the sensor ground to a ground point on the frame or splice it to the heater ground (test polarity of white wires first). If using a 4-wire, the closer the sensor ground to the ECU, the better the signal and mixture control.
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Captain Obvious
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You can safely replace the 3 wire with a single wire O2. It's also a lot less work and less chance of making a mistake than a 3 or 4 wire. The heater element is only there to reduce emissions while the engine is still cold. As soon as the O2 is up to operating temp, the heaters are useless. The heater O2s were only designed to meet stricter new vehicle emission laws. A far as longevity goes, ALL ( 1-4 wire) O2 will last the same amount of time. The number of wires has no relevance to quality or longevity. Bosch O2s are one of the best money can buy.
This has been discussed before... What I did, was to follow previous suggestions, and go shopping for a Bosch # 13953, I think it's supposed to be a ford compatible item, and you do need to splice the 3 wires in. I paid $42.69, total price, at a local auto parts store. This is the "long pigtail" version, there is a short pigtail version as well, but I didn't keep that number, it was only $3 less?
Thanks to who told me, now it's my turn to pass the info along.
Thanks to who told me, now it's my turn to pass the info along.
Heater is just for making sure the sensor is at 600+ degrees. It is not just for quick emisions on startup. If it's far enough downstream, it may not stay hot enough on its own. When it's not hot enough, it senses lean, and tries to run the engine more rich.
Originally Posted by RDS928S
Matt,
I am running a Motorsport ceramic coated x-pipe(the ceramic coating does effect temps). It sounds like I should get a heated unit?
Rich
I am running a Motorsport ceramic coated x-pipe(the ceramic coating does effect temps). It sounds like I should get a heated unit?
Rich


