Garage floor - epoxy paint or concrete stain
#1
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Garage floor - epoxy paint or concrete stain
I'm building a detached "hobby garage", which will be complete in about 2 months (footings and foundation complete today, framing starts this week). It will be 22' wide and 34' deep, with an asymetric lift. I'm now starting to contemplate the treatment for the floor. Two options appear feasible, but am looking for opinions from you "experts".
What is anyone's experience with concrete stain (either the two step with acid rinse first, or the single step "acid stain" method)? How durable, did you use a sealant on top, etc. ANY experience with this would be helpful. I've had both the two component epoxy systems and the single component "newer" acrylic epoxy system, so I'm aware of what's involved in applying them, and their durability. The staining looks appealing, and I've heard that many of the NASCAR shops have been doing this for quite a while.
THANKS for any input, suggestions, etc.
Gary Knox
West Chester, PA
What is anyone's experience with concrete stain (either the two step with acid rinse first, or the single step "acid stain" method)? How durable, did you use a sealant on top, etc. ANY experience with this would be helpful. I've had both the two component epoxy systems and the single component "newer" acrylic epoxy system, so I'm aware of what's involved in applying them, and their durability. The staining looks appealing, and I've heard that many of the NASCAR shops have been doing this for quite a while.
THANKS for any input, suggestions, etc.
Gary Knox
West Chester, PA
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#2
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Hi Gary, do a Renlist search on "garage" "stain" or "stained" under the 928 section: I posted my steps, progress, photos of my garage floor staining process: love it. Would'nt change it. Had painted & pricier painted, peeled very quickly.
Mark.
Mark.
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Hello Gary.
The two step epoxy would be the strongest floor compared to the sigle step way of doing it.
On concrete floors it is utmost important to acid rinse first...but You knew that already.
The two step epoxy method is widely used in storage facilities as it is strong enough to maneuver a forklift on and nice and easy to keep clean. If You get a lighter grey color it will also help with lighting in Your garage.
Again, thanks for the brakes...did You get that GTS?
Geir
The two step epoxy would be the strongest floor compared to the sigle step way of doing it.
On concrete floors it is utmost important to acid rinse first...but You knew that already.
The two step epoxy method is widely used in storage facilities as it is strong enough to maneuver a forklift on and nice and easy to keep clean. If You get a lighter grey color it will also help with lighting in Your garage.
Again, thanks for the brakes...did You get that GTS?
Geir
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I have heard that the concrete floor must be fully cured before a sealing-type coating is applied and that it can take many months for the floor to cure. There's a test, involving plastic and tape, that will indicate if the 'crete is still curing. (Basically, tape a several square-foot section of plastic to the floor. Seal all the edges. If after a few days the plastic has ballooned then the floor is not yet cured.)
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#8
Drifting
I looked at the do it your self epoxy flooring for a two car at around $300. Check out Race Deck if you can afford it (around $1k). Interlocking tiles that are available in multiple colors.
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...& let fluids fall in between, necessitating a partial removal & cleaning to get to it.
FWIW, staining runs about $260 for materials, & about 8hrs labor (total)
FWIW, staining runs about $260 for materials, & about 8hrs labor (total)
#10
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Originally Posted by worf928
I have heard that the concrete floor must be fully cured before a sealing-type coating is applied and that it can take many months for the floor to cure. There's a test, involving plastic and tape, that will indicate if the 'crete is still curing. (Basically, tape a several square-foot section of plastic to the floor. Seal all the edges. If after a few days the plastic has ballooned then the floor is not yet cured.)
Sealing concrete early in the curing process is actually a good thing, because it keeps water from being evaporated away and makes it available for hydration.
I would assume that some product manufacturers might stipulate that the concrete be allowed to reach full strength prior to application, but it has no negative effect on the concrete.
More than anyone wanted to know about concrete, but there is a lot more if you are interested.
Rod
#11
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concrete
Hi there.
Rob, you are right relative to all the information about 28 days for standard testing of yield strength at 70 degress 1 atm 60 percent humidity etc.
However, you should wait at LEAST 6 months before painting or coating the concrete. Acrylic coatings, however do help to cure the concrete and will be a good floor sealant aside from the slickness and can be recoated with little effort. However, if it already has a sealant applied, you need to mechanically profile the surface to get paints and stains to adhere.
I have done a few floors and have a couple of friends who do it for a living on Air Force Bases and they are very picky.
Thanks,
Garrity
Rob, you are right relative to all the information about 28 days for standard testing of yield strength at 70 degress 1 atm 60 percent humidity etc.
However, you should wait at LEAST 6 months before painting or coating the concrete. Acrylic coatings, however do help to cure the concrete and will be a good floor sealant aside from the slickness and can be recoated with little effort. However, if it already has a sealant applied, you need to mechanically profile the surface to get paints and stains to adhere.
I have done a few floors and have a couple of friends who do it for a living on Air Force Bases and they are very picky.
Thanks,
Garrity
#12
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Originally Posted by fst951
Hi there.
Rob, you are right relative to all the information about 28 days for standard testing of yield strength at 70 degress 1 atm 60 percent humidity etc.
However, you should wait at LEAST 6 months before painting or coating the concrete. Acrylic coatings, however do help to cure the concrete and will be a good floor sealant aside from the slickness and can be recoated with little effort. However, if it already has a sealant applied, you need to mechanically profile the surface to get paints and stains to adhere.
I have done a few floors and have a couple of friends who do it for a living on Air Force Bases and they are very picky.
Thanks,
Garrity
Rob, you are right relative to all the information about 28 days for standard testing of yield strength at 70 degress 1 atm 60 percent humidity etc.
However, you should wait at LEAST 6 months before painting or coating the concrete. Acrylic coatings, however do help to cure the concrete and will be a good floor sealant aside from the slickness and can be recoated with little effort. However, if it already has a sealant applied, you need to mechanically profile the surface to get paints and stains to adhere.
I have done a few floors and have a couple of friends who do it for a living on Air Force Bases and they are very picky.
Thanks,
Garrity
It's really about the coating considerations, not about what the concrete will benefit from.
I just wish I had a new and bigger garage/shop floor to worry about. ;-)
Rod AKA Rob
#13
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Just today I called the Rustoleum tech support line and asked how long to let a new concrete floor cure before using their two-part epoxy garage floor kit. They said 30 days.
Is acid washing necessary on a new concrete floor?
Is acid washing necessary on a new concrete floor?
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Originally Posted by Rod Underwood
...More than anyone wanted to know about concrete, but there is a lot more if you are interested.
I don't know about Gary - the original thread creator - but at the risk of hijacking the thread, I sure would like to know more about large concrete floors. For instance, for a large floor - say 36x54 - what are the requirements for expansion/contraction stress relief?
#15
This was done with a two step epoxy system.. It very durable as Gary states.
Originally Posted by Hoyo
Hello Gary.
The two step epoxy would be the strongest floor compared to the sigle step way of doing it.
On concrete floors it is utmost important to acid rinse first...but You knew that already.
The two step epoxy method is widely used in storage facilities as it is strong enough to maneuver a forklift on and nice and easy to keep clean. If You get a lighter grey color it will also help with lighting in Your garage.
Again, thanks for the brakes...did You get that GTS?
Geir
The two step epoxy would be the strongest floor compared to the sigle step way of doing it.
On concrete floors it is utmost important to acid rinse first...but You knew that already.
The two step epoxy method is widely used in storage facilities as it is strong enough to maneuver a forklift on and nice and easy to keep clean. If You get a lighter grey color it will also help with lighting in Your garage.
Again, thanks for the brakes...did You get that GTS?
Geir