Rear hatch opening delay
12-27-2005, 08:53 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Rear hatch opening delay
Is it normal for the rear hatch to take @5 seconds to open when you pull the button up?
On my car, it sounds like the mechanism is working through several revolutions and then finally opens.
This is the first 928 that I've owned that the auto rear hatch opener works! So I'm not sure if the delay is normal or not.
Been enjoying the new shark once a week since I got it. Can't wait for spring.
Greg
On my car, it sounds like the mechanism is working through several revolutions and then finally opens.
This is the first 928 that I've owned that the auto rear hatch opener works! So I'm not sure if the delay is normal or not.
Been enjoying the new shark once a week since I got it. Can't wait for spring.
Greg
12-27-2005, 09:24 AM
#3
Range Master
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Mine is not instantaneous, maybe 2 to 3 seconds. However the mechanism does not sound like it is going through multiple cycles...
12-27-2005, 10:51 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by Thaddeus
Mine goes rAYrww-rAYrww ka-chunk. Sounds like 2 cycles.
12-27-2005, 05:58 PM
#6
The opening crank makes a single cycle and it should open the trunk lid during this cycle.
The inner nylon type bush is prone to wear on the back edge and the opening cam will not disengage the locking mechanism.
Many owners pack out the back of the back edge of the bush with "some thin plastic material" such as an old ice cream tub or others build up the cam by folding some thin guage plate around it, suitably cut to size.
Both these methods work until the nylon bush further wears.
Unfortunately Porsche only sells the full mechanism, not the insert, so replacement is slightly expensve.
Personally I fabricated a new back nylon insert and fitted it with silicone sealant after cutting out the old worn section. Initially it was difficult to make a working drawing of the insert piece and it fabrication (cut out by hand) due to the tapered sections involved.
Mine has now worked for over 4 years with no porblems. I initially tried the insert pieces mentioned above, which only worked for short periods as the original nylon type insert detoriates with age.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
The inner nylon type bush is prone to wear on the back edge and the opening cam will not disengage the locking mechanism.
Many owners pack out the back of the back edge of the bush with "some thin plastic material" such as an old ice cream tub or others build up the cam by folding some thin guage plate around it, suitably cut to size.
Both these methods work until the nylon bush further wears.
Unfortunately Porsche only sells the full mechanism, not the insert, so replacement is slightly expensve.
Personally I fabricated a new back nylon insert and fitted it with silicone sealant after cutting out the old worn section. Initially it was difficult to make a working drawing of the insert piece and it fabrication (cut out by hand) due to the tapered sections involved.
Mine has now worked for over 4 years with no porblems. I initially tried the insert pieces mentioned above, which only worked for short periods as the original nylon type insert detoriates with age.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
12-27-2005, 06:10 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by Tails
Unfortunately Porsche only sells the full mechanism, not the insert, so replacement is slightly expensve.
(part 19 on PET 803-05; "latch." Also listed as one of three parts of the "lid lock upper part" 928.512.903.02)
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12-27-2005, 06:31 PM
#8
Race Director
It sounds like it takes too long...maybe the motor is getting worn and slow to react...mine (once it was adjusted properly) takes about 2-3 seconds of holding the button....this is what fixed mine:
http://www.928s4.com/project/hatchrelease.htm
The shim works great! Try it!
http://www.928s4.com/project/hatchrelease.htm
The shim works great! Try it!
12-27-2005, 08:06 PM
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. When I get into my new shop this is one of the things I'll have to have a look at. I think the mechanism is cycling a few times to open the hatch. Perhaps it is somehow opening it a little at a time on each cycle, right on the edge of not opening it at all. I don't know.
12-27-2005, 08:42 PM
#11
Electron Wrangler
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Greg - it should do only one cycle - get someone to pull the hatch release while you watch the motor (behind rear tool panel) to make sure you know what its doing... It should take approx 2 seconds (or less) to do one cycle and should open every time.
Alan
Alan
12-29-2005, 08:11 AM
#12
Worf928
I have looked up PET5 and 928 512 161 02 part 19 is the latch which is moved by the electric motor crank mechanism to release the hatch/lid. The three part numbers refered in part 7 are the lid lock upper part.
In my message I'm refering to the part 11, lid lock lower part which contains the nylon type insert. Please refer to IcemansG17 link in his message and you will see the nylon insert refered to in one of his photographs.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
I have looked up PET5 and 928 512 161 02 part 19 is the latch which is moved by the electric motor crank mechanism to release the hatch/lid. The three part numbers refered in part 7 are the lid lock upper part.
In my message I'm refering to the part 11, lid lock lower part which contains the nylon type insert. Please refer to IcemansG17 link in his message and you will see the nylon insert refered to in one of his photographs.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
12-29-2005, 05:07 PM
#13
Electron Wrangler
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Greg,
You may have 2 issues then... The motor is supposed to cycle for only one cycle (unless you keep pulling the button) - it has a mechnism for this that is unrelated to the hatch state (open or closed). So the fact it didn't open on the first go does not really relate to why it might keep going for more cycles. You will likely have to fix the hatch opening reliably issue first and see if you sometimes still have the motor cycling for multiple cycles. Its possible to adjust the motor movement (up & down on its bracket) so that its very stressed as it completes a cycle - this sometimes affects the cutout at the stop point of the cycle depending on the motor speed. Otherwise you may need to open up the motor and clean the interlock contact track inside - especially the gap portion - thats where it is supposed to stop - sometimes worn parts of the track gets smeared partly across the gap opening....
The hatch opener issue is probably alignment of the hatch receiver or wear on the actuator cam - see many previous posts on solutions to both these issues.
I have had years of success with 3-4 plastic Zip Ties wrapped around the actuator cam... There are other ideas for shims etc too. The design here left much room for improvement.
Alan
You may have 2 issues then... The motor is supposed to cycle for only one cycle (unless you keep pulling the button) - it has a mechnism for this that is unrelated to the hatch state (open or closed). So the fact it didn't open on the first go does not really relate to why it might keep going for more cycles. You will likely have to fix the hatch opening reliably issue first and see if you sometimes still have the motor cycling for multiple cycles. Its possible to adjust the motor movement (up & down on its bracket) so that its very stressed as it completes a cycle - this sometimes affects the cutout at the stop point of the cycle depending on the motor speed. Otherwise you may need to open up the motor and clean the interlock contact track inside - especially the gap portion - thats where it is supposed to stop - sometimes worn parts of the track gets smeared partly across the gap opening....
The hatch opener issue is probably alignment of the hatch receiver or wear on the actuator cam - see many previous posts on solutions to both these issues.
I have had years of success with 3-4 plastic Zip Ties wrapped around the actuator cam... There are other ideas for shims etc too. The design here left much room for improvement.
Alan
12-29-2005, 05:51 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by Alan
Greg,
You may have 2 issues then... The motor is supposed to cycle for only one cycle (unless you keep pulling the button) - it has a mechnism for this that is unrelated to the hatch state (open or closed). So the fact it didn't open on the first go does not really relate to why it might keep going for more cycles. You will likely have to fix the hatch opening reliably issue first and see if you sometimes still have the motor cycling for multiple cycles. Its possible to adjust the motor movement (up & down on its bracket) so that its very stressed as it completes a cycle - this sometimes affects the cutout at the stop point of the cycle depending on the motor speed. Otherwise you may need to open up the motor and clean the interlock contact track inside - especially the gap portion - thats where it is supposed to stop - sometimes worn parts of the track gets smeared partly across the gap opening....
The hatch opener issue is probably alignment of the hatch receiver or wear on the actuator cam - see many previous posts on solutions to both these issues.
I have had years of success with 3-4 plastic Zip Ties wrapped around the actuator cam... There are other ideas for shims etc too. The design here left much room for improvement.
Alan
You may have 2 issues then... The motor is supposed to cycle for only one cycle (unless you keep pulling the button) - it has a mechnism for this that is unrelated to the hatch state (open or closed). So the fact it didn't open on the first go does not really relate to why it might keep going for more cycles. You will likely have to fix the hatch opening reliably issue first and see if you sometimes still have the motor cycling for multiple cycles. Its possible to adjust the motor movement (up & down on its bracket) so that its very stressed as it completes a cycle - this sometimes affects the cutout at the stop point of the cycle depending on the motor speed. Otherwise you may need to open up the motor and clean the interlock contact track inside - especially the gap portion - thats where it is supposed to stop - sometimes worn parts of the track gets smeared partly across the gap opening....
The hatch opener issue is probably alignment of the hatch receiver or wear on the actuator cam - see many previous posts on solutions to both these issues.
I have had years of success with 3-4 plastic Zip Ties wrapped around the actuator cam... There are other ideas for shims etc too. The design here left much room for improvement.
Alan
Alan, did you realize you just made the post from hell? No. 666!
Wow, I'd take the rest of the year off, just in case.
Have a happy new year and thanks for all your help.
Rod