Easy diagnosis? (warning light)
#1
They Smashed My Truck!
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Is there any sort of code reader available for my 81 L-jet auto? I'm out of ideas as to what the glowing (!) is all about. Everything seems to be fine but I would rather be sure before I put the car on the road.
Last edited by Randy V; 12-19-2005 at 03:26 PM.
#3
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The code reader is your owners manual firmly grasped between both hands - the L-jet has it's feet planted in the analog era. The alarm signified by either a glowing or flashing "!" are indicative of a prioritized set of sensor inputs.
A glowing '!' can be as simple as the handbrake left on ... to a more urgent flashing '!' telling of lost oil pressure = stop right now!
If all the pod lights are functional ( they all light up for confirmation when the ignition key is first turned to start position), the appropriate text indicator normally accompanies the "!".
Pay rapid attention to the flashing alarm, it is of high priority and cannot be cancelled by pushing the center consul '!' button .... whereas the low priority ones can be cancelled.
A glowing '!' can be as simple as the handbrake left on ... to a more urgent flashing '!' telling of lost oil pressure = stop right now!
If all the pod lights are functional ( they all light up for confirmation when the ignition key is first turned to start position), the appropriate text indicator normally accompanies the "!".
Pay rapid attention to the flashing alarm, it is of high priority and cannot be cancelled by pushing the center consul '!' button .... whereas the low priority ones can be cancelled.
#4
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Yes,
Job 1 here is to read the manual to discover the warning indicators you should have and where they are in the pod display....then check to see the bulbs light with the startup bulb check routine. If some don't then they may be trying to tell you whats up.... with a dead bulb....
If so - time for some pod diving.
Alan
Job 1 here is to read the manual to discover the warning indicators you should have and where they are in the pod display....then check to see the bulbs light with the startup bulb check routine. If some don't then they may be trying to tell you whats up.... with a dead bulb....
If so - time for some pod diving.
Alan
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I had a problem with the alarm light occasionally flickering, I mean not a steady light and not a regular flashing.
I finally decided it is somehow tied with low voltage at low engine revs, some sort of alternator issue. It goes away when I rev the motor.
I think I will try cleaning up all the pod connectors, maybe there is a poor conenction somewhere
Marton
I finally decided it is somehow tied with low voltage at low engine revs, some sort of alternator issue. It goes away when I rev the motor.
I think I will try cleaning up all the pod connectors, maybe there is a poor conenction somewhere
Marton
#6
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Ok well I guess that I need to get my dash lights working first. to tell if they tell me any more, i noticed after I posted that they didn't come on. the steady (!) is not flashing and accompanied by a buzzer behind the center console. It's in a bank of like six of them and IIRC it's the 3rd from the left.
#7
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Originally Posted by Garth S
it is of high priority and cannot be cancelled by pushing the center consul '!' button .... whereas the low priority ones can be cancelled.
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Speaking of diagnostics (but not quite related), what's that big 12-pin? connector under the dash on the driver's side? Probably at least 1" in diameter and the cable is steel wrapped with about 1' of cable. Nothing in the WSM and I couldn't find anything to connect it to. At first I thought it might be some sort of diagnostic plug but no OBD with L-jets. Anyone else know what I'm talking about or have any ideas?
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Jeff-
On my 82, it took me a year to figure out that the "!" was a button. But it should reset when you restart the car, so there must be something tripping it - and a bulb that's not working on your dash.
there are 12 things it checks for:
1. Oil Pressure
2. Oil Level
3. Brake circuit failure
4. Brake fluid level
5. Parking brake
6. Coolant level
7. Coolant temperature
8. Fuel Reserve
9. Washer fluid level
10. Brake bad wear
11. stop lights
12. tail lights
1-4 should flash when a warning occurs. All other will have a steady burn. When you 1st start the car, before you hit the started position with the key you should see all the lights on your dash. Confirm that they all light up - if not, then investigate the one(s) that is not lit up.
Check obvious things like coolant, washer fluid, engine oil, etc. Could also be a bad sender?
Here's a diagram of the central warning system if you need - but there is an excellent step-by-step process outlined on how to trouble shoot in the WSM. Section 90-34 through 90-40.
On my 82, it took me a year to figure out that the "!" was a button. But it should reset when you restart the car, so there must be something tripping it - and a bulb that's not working on your dash.
there are 12 things it checks for:
1. Oil Pressure
2. Oil Level
3. Brake circuit failure
4. Brake fluid level
5. Parking brake
6. Coolant level
7. Coolant temperature
8. Fuel Reserve
9. Washer fluid level
10. Brake bad wear
11. stop lights
12. tail lights
1-4 should flash when a warning occurs. All other will have a steady burn. When you 1st start the car, before you hit the started position with the key you should see all the lights on your dash. Confirm that they all light up - if not, then investigate the one(s) that is not lit up.
Check obvious things like coolant, washer fluid, engine oil, etc. Could also be a bad sender?
Here's a diagram of the central warning system if you need - but there is an excellent step-by-step process outlined on how to trouble shoot in the WSM. Section 90-34 through 90-40.
#10
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well my dash lights aren't working soi guess it's time to rip apart the pod. I'll check all the other possible causes as well. I swear this car is one big tease. I get her to the point where I think she's ready for some road love and she blows me off every time.
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Jeff,
If all your dash warning lights are nonfunctional, I'm guessing it's not in the pod. Could be central warning module I think under dead pedal. Check your wiring diagrams and WSM and Andrew's post above.
Dave
If all your dash warning lights are nonfunctional, I'm guessing it's not in the pod. Could be central warning module I think under dead pedal. Check your wiring diagrams and WSM and Andrew's post above.
Dave
#12
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Originally Posted by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
Jeff,
If all your dash warning lights are nonfunctional, I'm guessing it's not in the pod. Could be central warning module I think under dead pedal. Check your wiring diagrams and WSM and Andrew's post above.
Dave
If all your dash warning lights are nonfunctional, I'm guessing it's not in the pod. Could be central warning module I think under dead pedal. Check your wiring diagrams and WSM and Andrew's post above.
Dave
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Hi Jeff,
When I questioned the CWM vs removing the pod, I really meant that if no warning lights are lighting up when you first turn the key to the run position just before starting the car there are at least two possibilities: all the warning lights are burned out (possible but not likely), there is a connector loose between the CWM and the pod, or the board which controls the warning lights function is not working. To replace the lights you need to remove the instrument cluster (see my recent post). To address the CWM itself the pod does not need to be removed. There are 3 12-pin connectors on the back of the instrument cluster and if one is loose this could be part of your problem.
Dave
When I questioned the CWM vs removing the pod, I really meant that if no warning lights are lighting up when you first turn the key to the run position just before starting the car there are at least two possibilities: all the warning lights are burned out (possible but not likely), there is a connector loose between the CWM and the pod, or the board which controls the warning lights function is not working. To replace the lights you need to remove the instrument cluster (see my recent post). To address the CWM itself the pod does not need to be removed. There are 3 12-pin connectors on the back of the instrument cluster and if one is loose this could be part of your problem.
Dave