Herr-Kuhn

For those interested...my 4.5 intercooler can be seen on the Split Second website under project cars...the old Callaway unit is there for comparison as well.

DR

Hi John,

Hope all is well, Happy Holidays to you!!

>Hey Dave, I believe you should place a can of "whoop-***" in the open air pump filter void in your fan housing

Nah, that is where I put my Pepsi when I'm working under the hood, fits perfectly .... :-)

MarkRobinson

Just for kicks, on the dyno two weeks ago, I temperature-tested my front-mounted intercooler with a digital pyrometer on the pipe leaving the intercooler, near the PS reservior: @ 6200rpm, my pyrometer displayed a mere 4 degree higher display than at ambient idle temperature (94d on boost, 6200rpm vs 90d at idle on the dyno just seconds prioir). Not too bad at all, though was only a 3psi run

Though, for all practical purposes, it was working quite well. Source my lack of boost, it appears to be the BOV (on my 3rd one, gotta find the "proper" cookie here). 3psi on the dyno made 340/375tq. Might hit the dyno again this weekend with a new valve.

sportscarclassics

To help answer the first email.
1) The longer the IC the larger the pressure drop and there maybe little gains for a large IC. If you install a glue on temp sensor in the inside of the discharge side of the IC you can measure the air temp. The goal is to keep the IC discharge air temp slightly above the ambient air temp. You may have to test different IC or if you know the flow rate and inlet temp to the IC you can do the math to figure out the cooling capacity required. You would have to guess worse case ambient air temp and flow.

2) The smaller the angles the better...keep the air in the laminar flow region.

3) The reason the dual path has a better cooling capacity is because when you split the flow into two you half the flow...if 100 cfm in, you get two 50 cfm out. What you get is half the flow per side but also half the speed, this gives you more dwell time in the IC and this gives you more cooling potiential. This is theory only and dual inlet/outlet may not be possible to install.

4) A liquid has a far greater cooling potiential than air, so water will be able to cool air better than air. However a water to air system is more complex and requires pumps, tanks & hoses... The rear evaporator could be used to cool the air or water to help with some of the cooling. This way a smaller IC could be used. If the evaporator is not convient then you can replace it with a 1/4" aluminum tube routed through the duct or water tank. The existing thermal expansion valve (TXV) will control the flow of freon through the tube and give you additional cooling. Hopefully you don't exceed the capacity of the compressor.

Good luck
Carl

Herr-Kuhn

The only way an air to water system will outperform a properly sized air to air system is with chilled water. Bell claims a best effort closed loop H20 system will see 65% at best. The proper air to air is well into the 75% or higher range. Additionally it is super reliable and if you get a leak the results are not going to damage anything.

The big adanatge of a/w is the build size and potentially lower pressure drop..but contrary to popular belief, it is not more efficient unless you chill the water tank down...not practical for a street or track car (except salt flat with large water tank, or drag where ice can be added). Remember, you are dealing with a two step heat transfer issue here...the old Ntot=N1*N2....if both heat exchangers operate at 80%....you are already below 70% when you finally unlaod the heat to atmosphere.

Using the AC system to chill the water seems rather silly to me when you could just fit air to air and move on. Fitting 475 HP worth of air to air cooler to a 16V 928 is easy....getting 650-700 HP worth of IC into a 32V bay is more difficult but it will soon be done.

mspiegle

its so crazy it looks like its straight out of star trek. A futuristic contraption you'd find on a spaceship. very cool

hacker-pschorr

Correction - it has already been done - one example over 3 years ago.

DR

Mike,

>its so crazy it looks like its straight out of star trek. A futuristic contraption you'd find on a spaceship. very cool

Thanks, BTW, the black "stealth" version will look a little more sedate, but still cool!

Imo000

You see... I told you I had a feeling it was the bypass vlave. I'm glad you found the leak. I was in the same boat untill I figured out why the psi was dropping in the high rpm range. Even with a leaking bypass valve the car was a beast!

Herr-Kuhn

Trust me hacker...you ain't seen anything like what I'm building...

m21sniper

Bell likes air-air for street cars, water to air for race(drag) cars.

According to Mr. Bell the air-to-waters have some heat saturation issues that the air-airs do not for street driving.

hacker-pschorr

What I've seen is an IC over double the capacity of a stock 928 radiator. That was only the first prototype.

TAREK

Not picking on anyone in particular. I'm kinda tired of all the IC claims in parts of the country where it snows 11 months per year. Some of us live in areas where traffic and high ambiant temperatures (not to mention humidity) can disable your car, just because 3 too many bugs obstructed air flow through the radiator. So yes, not picking on anyone in particular...rather on EVERYONE!

Seems that the optimum IC setup varies per geographical area for the street. I garantee you that an A/W setup is a source of added heat to the air charge in traffic in Florida....364 days a year...and the AC will NEVER keep the water temperature even CLOSE to ambiant....when it actually works. So you can sit at a light across from a ricer hoping that light turns green before your IC turns into a HEATER!!! On the other hand, in New England in the Winter, you can store 33 degree water or 5 degree coolant using your rear AC evaporator the majority of the time. Would be nice if you could have both and flip a switch for changing IC modes...A/W or A/A... I'm tempted

Herr-Kuhn

The air/air will still turn out the most efficient...it is n1*n2...=Ntot I don't see how ambient temps could make the A/W more efficient...the water is always just a storage for the heat, not the point of final heat dump. Maybe it would not heat soak as fast, but I don't see it outperforming the A/A...this assumes you can size the A/A large enough. For this comparison, you have to assume both are operating at the same ambeint conditions.

Hacker...was this IC you refer to on the Pacific NW TT car? I heard that car had a large louver welded into the hood and the IC sat on top of the engine. We never did see any results from that build. Original rumors placed the HP at 750. I heard this ran two 951 turbos.

heinrich

How is that possible John? Should we all convert to air radiators then?