FlyingDog

The stiffer new parts are probably just exagerating another already present problem.

JKelly

That's what I was thinking. My muffler made a clunking noise until I put new muffler hanger rubber in there. The old ones looked just fine, but the new ones made the noise go away. At first, I thought the noise was the suspension....

TAREK

I've had exactly the same problem ever since I changed to Bilsteins/Hypercoil and stiffer sway bar + adjustable links.... I redid the job 4 times, checking every possibility...clicking noise is still there!!! Very frustrating. One theory is that when you upgrade to stiffer springs, it becomes less possible for the shock to engage and it just rattles in there. May be the springs are too stiff and the shocks are too short? I have mine adjusted to max ride height due to bodykit clearanc issues.

If anyone figures it out please keep us posted
thanks

Ketchmi

Actually we may have it figured out and are working on a cure. It involves the axle stubs that are bolted into the differential. It seems that if there is any in/out play in them that they make a significant amount of noise as the suspension compresses and decompresses. This is made much more obvious with the Bilstein/Eibach setup for some reason. As soon as we know more and have a cure established we will let everyone know.

FlyingDog

Stiffer shocks/springs causing the suspension bushings to flex more than usual changing the geometry slightly?

v-tach

dave - i just recently had my cv boots done on the pass rear by a local mechanic. i think those bolts get torqued to 350lbs if i am not mistaken. they prob were not tightened that high i doubt if he had a torque wrench that went up that high.. you think that will make a difference in the noise im hearing ?
thanks
v-tach
1986.5

Ketchmi

I think the torque spec is 332'#s of torque and if they were loose you would hear more than just that. The torque value is used to compress the rear wheel bearing to it's operational parameters, if loose the rear wheel bearing will make ugly noises and probably live a short life. Pop off your center cap and go by any truck service shop, they should have a torque wrench capable of the right setting. It may cost you a cup of coffee or a beverage of their choice. Make sure the inside bolts are torqued also, not something you want coming off at high speed or even at low speed. (either 56 or 59"#s of torque, don't have the book handy.)

jpitman2

tHAT HIGH FT/LBS IS JUST FOR THE AXLE NUT, not the cv joint cap screws.....
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k, BTDT