Crank Scraper received and installed
12-16-2005, 10:41 AM
#62
Developer
Thread Starter
I have not heard of a running install too, John.
I think I may be the first. Jim Bailey told me it was prototyped for somebody else (he probably knows who) but the way he said it to me, I don't think it ever made it into a car.
I think it will be just fine, based on my experience with crank scrapers in Buicks and Chevy's from my youth. But, we'll have to see.
I think I may be the first. Jim Bailey told me it was prototyped for somebody else (he probably knows who) but the way he said it to me, I don't think it ever made it into a car.
I think it will be just fine, based on my experience with crank scrapers in Buicks and Chevy's from my youth. But, we'll have to see.
12-16-2005, 11:22 AM
#63
Nordschleife Master
Very interested in this! Please post any follow-up information. (Reminds me of a racer who found his "GT" sump cover wadded up in the sump.)
I'm with you, Carl, on using stainless. The strength properties are very much inferior to regular carbon steel. There are advanced alloys and heat treating but those aren't on the shelf at your local True Value hardware store. Certainly tempting for some uses. "Low torque" is relative. I can snap most of the 8mm and smaller bolts with short wrenches.
And what's a "male Allen" look like? Isn't that an ordinary bolt? Or do you mean "female Allen" like a cap screw?
And that thick gasket is perplexing. I've heard that it was for heat isolation of the oil pan from the block. Not getting that much more space for windage, which was my initial guess.
I'm with you, Carl, on using stainless. The strength properties are very much inferior to regular carbon steel. There are advanced alloys and heat treating but those aren't on the shelf at your local True Value hardware store. Certainly tempting for some uses. "Low torque" is relative. I can snap most of the 8mm and smaller bolts with short wrenches.
And what's a "male Allen" look like? Isn't that an ordinary bolt? Or do you mean "female Allen" like a cap screw?
And that thick gasket is perplexing. I've heard that it was for heat isolation of the oil pan from the block. Not getting that much more space for windage, which was my initial guess.
12-16-2005, 11:58 AM
#65
Developer
Thread Starter
From everything I see, the scraper could be installed in the car with no problems at all.
If you are just installing the scrapers, and not the windage elements too, - even easier.
Somthing to consider - crankshaft axial play or "thrust". Now, I'm building up a new motor from scratch,, so I checked my for-and-aft thrust as I tightened the mains. I found it too tight, and had to modify the #3 Main a tad to get the thrust within spec. I think you may assume on an engine already in service that your thrust bearing is within spec. My case is different (different crank going into a different block, new bearings, etc)
The amount the crank is allowed to jump for-and-aft is relevant to how tight you want to set up your windage scrapers to be. While normally forward under acceleration, the crank will be pulled back during a strong decel like engine braking.
The instructions suggested 1 mm clearance on all sides, I went closer to 1.5 or 2mm. I know that reduces the effectiveness of the scraper - but still, you cannot win a race that you do not finish - so I opted for a tad more clearance around the moving parts.
BTW - I have replacement main bearing nuts when you do the job. You should not re-use the nuts after they have been torqued. I have Grade 10 nuts for the 928 Mains that are 10MM high (thats 2 mm taller thn stock) and they catch more threads on the main stud. Yes, they fit in the oil pan!
If you are just installing the scrapers, and not the windage elements too, - even easier.
Somthing to consider - crankshaft axial play or "thrust". Now, I'm building up a new motor from scratch,, so I checked my for-and-aft thrust as I tightened the mains. I found it too tight, and had to modify the #3 Main a tad to get the thrust within spec. I think you may assume on an engine already in service that your thrust bearing is within spec. My case is different (different crank going into a different block, new bearings, etc)
The amount the crank is allowed to jump for-and-aft is relevant to how tight you want to set up your windage scrapers to be. While normally forward under acceleration, the crank will be pulled back during a strong decel like engine braking.
The instructions suggested 1 mm clearance on all sides, I went closer to 1.5 or 2mm. I know that reduces the effectiveness of the scraper - but still, you cannot win a race that you do not finish - so I opted for a tad more clearance around the moving parts.
BTW - I have replacement main bearing nuts when you do the job. You should not re-use the nuts after they have been torqued. I have Grade 10 nuts for the 928 Mains that are 10MM high (thats 2 mm taller thn stock) and they catch more threads on the main stud. Yes, they fit in the oil pan!
12-16-2005, 07:58 PM
#66
Nordschleife Master
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Originally Posted by Carl Fausett
I think I may be the first. Jim Bailey told me it was prototyped for somebody else (he probably knows who) but the way he said it to me, I don't think it ever made it into a car.
