ROG100

Section 44 page 5 of the WSM states:
Front 180 +-20mm
Rear 173+-10mm
A para. at the bottom reads:
Height adjustment settings apply to new cars. After cars have been driven for a period the height mat be max. 10mm less, In other words the downwards tolerance can vary by 10mm more. However this must them apply to both axles.

Now I have read this again I may have got it wrong.
My statement should have read:
Front 180mm + 20 -30
Rear 173mm + 10 -20
Have I got it right yet.

ew928

My poor shark had Nutso Freezo affliction on one of the shocks.
It was hit with bigass long lever, heat, more heat.
Finally cured when the bad nut was cracked in half.
Hopefully the new nut and liberal dose of Anti-Freeze keeps the
Nutso's swinging free.

Good luck getting the nuts spinning, Andrew.

She's so high I replaced both front ABS sensors without jacking
her up.
Ernest (NYC) Cayenne ride height.

ErnestSw

Ernest,
I'm really sorry to hear you've had so much trouble with your nuts.

928ntslow

Hmmmmm, It doesn't appear that anyone mentioned filling the gas tank before measuring ride height and the driver side is always (suggested) to be set 12-20mm (I believe) higher for driver weight.

Am I alone with this info????????

MGW-Fla

I did remember to fill my gas tank before I did the initial adjustment the other week

khalloudy

Roger,

yup you got it right this time

Keith,

you're totally right, the tank HAS to be FULL, and according to the WSM, you need a 150lb weight in the driver seat to simulate the driver. Adjustment is done after that

Sincerely,
Khaled

UKKid35

My nuts froze after only 12 months... but then it is quite cold here.

AO

Ok guys. I was wrong. Adjuting hardware is there. However, the driver side adjuster is just "spinning" Turning it has no effect. So I assume this means I have the frozen nut syndrome? (It was 26 when I left this AM.) I even tried loading the lower control arm, but could not get it to move up or down even with many liberal applications of PB blaster.

Pass side works fine, but I don't want to adjsut it until I can get the driver side to move too.

So how do I remedy this? Do I need to pull the strut, compress the spring, and take it apart? This is not a big deal as I noticed the upper ball joint boot is split, and I need to fix that too. Suggestions?

DR

Andrew,

Glad you found the adjusters, I thought they might be hidden from view!

For the one that is not spinning first douse it from above and below with some sort of WD-40 type spray lube, let it sit overnight. Then try to wedge a small metal piece (screwdriver etc,) in between the adjusting "collar" and the shock body to give it a little more friction. You can probably reach it best from the bottom side of the adjuster. BUT, be careful not to bend the shock body inward when you do this. If it is going to work it will not take much pressure and sometimes using 2 or 3 metal pieces around the perimeter will help even more.

If this doesn't work, you will have to remove it unless some of these smart fellows have a better suggestion.

WallyP

OK - Lots of confusion on the ride height specs...

The spec on page 44-05 (not 44-5) of the Factory Workshop Manual is wrong - no other spec that I have seen has ever had the "+" on the front spec, and a 928 set to 200 mm ride height would look like an off-road vehicle.

The front spec for a NEW car is thus 160 - 180 mm, and for a USED car, it is 150 - 180 mm.

For the rear, the NEW car spec is 163 - 183 mm, and for a used car it is 153 - 183 mm.

In addition, there are several additional requirements:
The measuring area must be flat and level.
Ride height must be within 10 mm side-to-side.
Ride height should be checked at DIN curb weights (full tank, tools and spare on board, etc.), with tire pressures correct, and all joint and bearing adjustments correct.
Ride height may not be set if the car has been jacked, unless the front end is pulled down per the procedures in the manual.
The wheel loads should be adjusted to give the minimum difference (less than 20 kg) left-to-right with the ride heights within specs.

The factory actually considers the wheel loads to be more important than the ride heights, as long as the ride heights are within specs. In other words, the height tolerances are to be used to make the wheel loads as even as possible.

We usually are more interested in the lower end of the specs, and we usually either ignore or take for granted the other requirements, so it is a good thing to discuss the subject fully now and then.

If I have screwed this up, I suspect that someone will be happy to correct me...

AO

Thanks DR... Already doused from top and bottom (A lot of crud flowed out, so I kept doing it - so there's more thank enough PB blaster there). I like the 3 wedge idea. What kind or wedge do you suggest? I was thining something like a nail countersing would slip up there pretty good. What do you use?

DR

Use something flat as a round peice could deform the shock body easier, plus a flatter wedge type will give you more surface area.

AO

Wally thanks for the added clarity. If it were your car, would you set the height at the upper or lower end of the spec? Just curious.

AO

Got it. I'll see what I can find/make.

WallyP

Andrew,

An off-the-wall suggestion:
Clean the joint between the threaded sleeve and the body with brake cleaner or similar, then wick some thin super glue into the joint...