early engine mounts, replace?
#1
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Trying to decied to replace the engine mounts. Not cracked, or ripped. The engine doesn't move to much when bliped. The mounts are not collasped nor laying on the rest. Still their 24 years old. Anyone experience better ride replacing them. (their non-hydro).
#2
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These are the original style mounts?
Those are solid rubber with damper shocks used to soften the vibrations. If there's no problem, there is no problem. The failure mode is having them split so the engine twists too much. Mine failed like that and I'd have never known if I hadn't pulled the engine and looked at them.
Those are solid rubber with damper shocks used to soften the vibrations. If there's no problem, there is no problem. The failure mode is having them split so the engine twists too much. Mine failed like that and I'd have never known if I hadn't pulled the engine and looked at them.
#3
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They will never sag or collapse - they are solid mounts, not like the later models. They can go soft if they get a lot of motor oil on them, and they can dry and crack if they have gotten a lot of heat from the manifolds on them. If your heat shields are intact, I have seen the OEM early mounts last a long, long time.
When I have seen them fail, the rubber had become detached from the metal frame around them.
However, the little hydraulic damponers right next to them don't do so well.... disconnect them at one end and see if they still have resistance to up-and-down movement. They are often shot.
When I have seen them fail, the rubber had become detached from the metal frame around them.
However, the little hydraulic damponers right next to them don't do so well.... disconnect them at one end and see if they still have resistance to up-and-down movement. They are often shot.
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Very interesting topic! My engine is out of the car, and I am very confused about the mounts. When I removed the engine I removed to "hook-like" metal plates which were on top of rubber "mounts" I thought that that was not how it was supposed to go, and that the metal "hook-like" plates were supposed to be on the rubber things. But now, with the engine out, i tried to get the rubber things off the crossmember and they didn't move. They look neither squished, neither cracked. So, I don't get it, is this normal, or "hook-like" plate should be on the mounts? Should I replace them? (this is 1979 5speed)
Thanks a lot,
Klim
Thanks a lot,
Klim
#6
Nordschleife Master
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The top metal is supposed to be bonded to the rubber. The hook is there to prevent the engine from lifting too much when it fails. These need to be replaced.
You might dig around on putting in the cheaper replacement mounts (for Fords) for the later cars. The issue is that they don't bolt right up. You'll need a later crossmember to make it work.
You might dig around on putting in the cheaper replacement mounts (for Fords) for the later cars. The issue is that they don't bolt right up. You'll need a later crossmember to make it work.
#7
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Does the type of mount construction change ? if so what year do they change?
I am about to buy an 86 928 which has collapsed mounts. The seller says he fitted a temporary insert he sourced from the US. What might this be and how effective ? sorry for all the questions but this could be the decider if I buy or not
I am about to buy an 86 928 which has collapsed mounts. The seller says he fitted a temporary insert he sourced from the US. What might this be and how effective ? sorry for all the questions but this could be the decider if I buy or not
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#8
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Thanks for the answer! So, I will need to change a mounts... How do I remove them? Are they bolted from below? Thanks.
Peanut, I think in 1983 the mounts went from solid to hydrolic so, you car has hydrolic ones.There are a lot of people who fitted Ford hydrolic mounts. Carl also sells solid mounts instead of hydrolics, which are cheaper then original ones.
Klim
Peanut, I think in 1983 the mounts went from solid to hydrolic so, you car has hydrolic ones.There are a lot of people who fitted Ford hydrolic mounts. Carl also sells solid mounts instead of hydrolics, which are cheaper then original ones.
Klim
#9
Burning Brakes
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Klim,
You will have to drop your steering rack to access the engine mount bolts. Still kind of a pain even with the engine out, but better to do it now than later.
You will have to drop your steering rack to access the engine mount bolts. Still kind of a pain even with the engine out, but better to do it now than later.
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If I understand correctly, lump is engine, right? If yes, then you can change the mounts without taking the engine out, but you will need to lift it a little bit(I did it with a jack on piece of wood under the oil pan). Actually, it is a usuall practice to change the mounts without removing the engine.
I believe there might be a write up or something like it. Just do a search on rennlist, or check nichol's tips site.
You are welcome,
Klim
I believe there might be a write up or something like it. Just do a search on rennlist, or check nichol's tips site.
You are welcome,
Klim
#14
Burning Brakes
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Thanks klim. yes lump is britspeak for engine but then you call your's mouse and rat and damm fine they sound too on the rare occasion you here that lovely burble here in the UK
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Klim,
I'm up on top of Mt Olive, off rt 206. My work office is in Jamesburg. We should meet with all the 928er in NJ. Then I could show off the Powerdyne.
I'm up on top of Mt Olive, off rt 206. My work office is in Jamesburg. We should meet with all the 928er in NJ. Then I could show off the Powerdyne.
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