Gas Tank Fix?
11-10-2005, 04:30 PM
#1
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Gas Tank Fix?
Has anyone been able to repair the gas tank on our cars? My 82 has had a leak for a while. I have tried to fix it a few times, but it only lasts a couple of months. The leak is small and I can see it is a small crack at the bottom of the tank by the strap. Is there any chance of dropping the tank and doing some kind of permanent repair?
11-10-2005, 04:40 PM
#2
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Well, the tank is plastic as you probably already know. It’s possible to weld plastic. Go to a motorcycle shop and ask for details. They always have someone that repairs the cracked/broken bike fairings.
Now that I think about it, I remember seeing plastic repair kits at the local parts store. It was for repairing cracks in plastic radiator side tanks, maybe that will work. If you go with that, make sure you prep the surface really well.
I hope this helps!
Now that I think about it, I remember seeing plastic repair kits at the local parts store. It was for repairing cracks in plastic radiator side tanks, maybe that will work. If you go with that, make sure you prep the surface really well.
I hope this helps!
11-10-2005, 04:51 PM
#3
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I'd recommend trying MarineTex epoxy to fix the crack (it's resistant to gasoline), then bond a small piece of aluminum sheet stock over the area to add structural integrity.
11-10-2005, 04:58 PM
#6
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Not close enough to VIR.
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Somebody posted that the tank is polyethylene (sp?) which can be plastic welded. There is a thread started by Chuck Z that includes many recommendations for fixing a tank although his was just the threaded insert at the bottom.
Edited to add:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...=tank+overflow
PS: Anybody else notice the forum is extremely slow today or is it just my connection?
Edited to add:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...=tank+overflow
PS: Anybody else notice the forum is extremely slow today or is it just my connection?
11-10-2005, 06:01 PM
#7
Pro
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Brentwood, TN
Posts: 740
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have the tank from Kryptonite dropped right now and drying after Bubba the Steam Cleaner did the interior. I don't have any leaks but I do have three cut marks about 3 inches long by about 1/16" deep where the support cradle's padding had worn off. I will work on those cuts tomorrow with a variety of materials and techniques and get back to you with a definite answer. Right now I am in the middle of doing the brakes on my T100 truck which let go yesterday while I was towing a 5,000 lb cargo trailer full of construction debris. I got it to the landfill, dumped and back home, using only the gears and emergency brake, and a couple of Miatas that I used to scrub speed off with on the interstate. heh
Cheers!
Cheers!
Trending Topics
11-10-2005, 06:09 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
If the leak is in an area that is prone to flexing, I suspect epoxy will be too rigid and will break and leak again. I would go for plastic welding if at all possible. I have had success with PC11 sealing up a spun threaded insert (4yrs no leaks), but that are is pretty thick and rigid.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k
11-10-2005, 06:28 PM
#9
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Before I go to the trouble of removing the tank, I would need a sure thing 
The leak is dead bottom and getting the crack dry is near impossible. I would think the best thing is to pull the tank, let it dry out upside down and then try sealing the thing.
There is a slurry, now that I think about it. I used it on the old Jaguar when I dropped those tanks. IIRC, you pour the mixture in an empty dry tank and slush it around coating the entire inside. It seals all leaks and rust. Still have the Jag, tank hasn't leaked in 4 years. However, that is a metal tank!
Looks like I may be dropping the 82's tank soon though. I HATE LEAKS! Anybody done this proceedure? I am sure I can figure it out, but it is always nice when some one who has done the work, can give tips, points and hints.
The leak is dead bottom and getting the crack dry is near impossible. I would think the best thing is to pull the tank, let it dry out upside down and then try sealing the thing. There is a slurry, now that I think about it. I used it on the old Jaguar when I dropped those tanks. IIRC, you pour the mixture in an empty dry tank and slush it around coating the entire inside. It seals all leaks and rust. Still have the Jag, tank hasn't leaked in 4 years. However, that is a metal tank!
Looks like I may be dropping the 82's tank soon though. I HATE LEAKS! Anybody done this proceedure? I am sure I can figure it out, but it is always nice when some one who has done the work, can give tips, points and hints.
11-10-2005, 07:58 PM
#10
Pro
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Brentwood, TN
Posts: 740
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 928ntslow
Before I go to the trouble of removing the tank, I would need a sure thing The leak is dead bottom and getting the crack dry is near impossible. I would think the best thing is to pull the tank, let it dry out upside down and then try sealing the thing.
There is a slurry, now that I think about it. I used it on the old Jaguar when I dropped those tanks. IIRC, you pour the mixture in an empty dry tank and slush it around coating the entire inside. It seals all leaks and rust. Still have the Jag, tank hasn't leaked in 4 years. However, that is a metal tank!
Looks like I may be dropping the 82's tank soon though. I HATE LEAKS! Anybody done this proceedure? I am sure I can figure it out, but it is always nice when some one who has done the work, can give tips, points and hints.
The leak is dead bottom and getting the crack dry is near impossible. I would think the best thing is to pull the tank, let it dry out upside down and then try sealing the thing. There is a slurry, now that I think about it. I used it on the old Jaguar when I dropped those tanks. IIRC, you pour the mixture in an empty dry tank and slush it around coating the entire inside. It seals all leaks and rust. Still have the Jag, tank hasn't leaked in 4 years. However, that is a metal tank!
Looks like I may be dropping the 82's tank soon though. I HATE LEAKS! Anybody done this proceedure? I am sure I can figure it out, but it is always nice when some one who has done the work, can give tips, points and hints.
Dropping the tank is not that hard, actually. The worst part in my case was the many years of crud which had packed the under carriage.
I pressure washed and simple greene solutioned the entire rear undercarriage. The car is on 24" jack stands, BTW.
In my case, the fuel hoses are being replaced so I just cut them away with a set of pvc pipe cutters. I loosened the nuts holding the tank hanger and jiggled things, finally giving the tank a huge kick with my foot. Lots of dirt and more crud came down. Then I went ahead and pulled the nuts off. There was a slight hang-up because I had fogotten to disconnect the electric plug to the fuel sender. Seems that there is a piece of tupperware plastic which had been sealed across the top of the access hole, using caulking or perhaps industrial cement.
I let the tank support harness -- a metal POS which is severely rusted down and then jiggled the tank some more and down she came.
There was about 5 gallons of rusty water in the tank.
You can do the tank drop in about 30 minutes which includes time for a break.
As long as the tank is out you might as well have it steam cleaned. It cost me $25 and two bottles of beer to get mine done right here at home. Bubba the Steamer Man has his own van and comes to your home or job.
As far as the slurry stuff is concerned, just remember that the bottom hole and filter will have to come out and there are cautions elsewhere in this forum about how to remove the filter.
HTH!
Cheers,
11-10-2005, 09:35 PM
#11
I had to take the gas tank 3 times
1: 2 piece epoxy paste. Started to leak a few minutes after install.
2: special "plastic gas tank repair kit" from a local retailer. Cracked while tighting the straps.
3: jb weld. Worked like a charm. No leak and its been almost 2 years since the repair.
Tank has to come down. Do not use the special "plastic gas ta
1: 2 piece epoxy paste. Started to leak a few minutes after install.
2: special "plastic gas tank repair kit" from a local retailer. Cracked while tighting the straps.
3: jb weld. Worked like a charm. No leak and its been almost 2 years since the repair.
Tank has to come down. Do not use the special "plastic gas ta
11-11-2005, 12:23 AM
#13
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Tony, don't even go there!!! Getting the Jag tanks out absolutely and totally suck! The hard part is putting them back in!!! 
Thanks for the advice people. I had a few PM's of good folks willing to help me out with replacement tanks. If things work out, I may just do a replacement as it appears it could be quite cost effective!
Thanks for the advice people. I had a few PM's of good folks willing to help me out with replacement tanks. If things work out, I may just do a replacement as it appears it could be quite cost effective!
11-11-2005, 02:12 AM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by CWO4Mann
Dropping the tank is not that hard, actually. The worst part in my case was the many years of crud which had packed the under carriage.
I pressure washed and simple greene solutioned the entire rear undercarriage. The car is on 24" jack stands, BTW.
In my case, the fuel hoses are being replaced so I just cut them away with a set of pvc pipe cutters. I loosened the nuts holding the tank hanger and jiggled things, finally giving the tank a huge kick with my foot. Lots of dirt and more crud came down. Then I went ahead and pulled the nuts off. There was a slight hang-up because I had fogotten to disconnect the electric plug to the fuel sender. Seems that there is a piece of tupperware plastic which had been sealed across the top of the access hole, using caulking or perhaps industrial cement.
I let the tank support harness -- a metal POS which is severely rusted down and then jiggled the tank some more and down she came.
There was about 5 gallons of rusty water in the tank.
You can do the tank drop in about 30 minutes which includes time for a break.
As long as the tank is out you might as well have it steam cleaned. It cost me $25 and two bottles of beer to get mine done right here at home. Bubba the Steamer Man has his own van and comes to your home or job.
As far as the slurry stuff is concerned, just remember that the bottom hole and filter will have to come out and there are cautions elsewhere in this forum about how to remove the filter.
HTH!
Cheers,
I pressure washed and simple greene solutioned the entire rear undercarriage. The car is on 24" jack stands, BTW.
In my case, the fuel hoses are being replaced so I just cut them away with a set of pvc pipe cutters. I loosened the nuts holding the tank hanger and jiggled things, finally giving the tank a huge kick with my foot. Lots of dirt and more crud came down. Then I went ahead and pulled the nuts off. There was a slight hang-up because I had fogotten to disconnect the electric plug to the fuel sender. Seems that there is a piece of tupperware plastic which had been sealed across the top of the access hole, using caulking or perhaps industrial cement.
I let the tank support harness -- a metal POS which is severely rusted down and then jiggled the tank some more and down she came.
There was about 5 gallons of rusty water in the tank.
You can do the tank drop in about 30 minutes which includes time for a break.
As long as the tank is out you might as well have it steam cleaned. It cost me $25 and two bottles of beer to get mine done right here at home. Bubba the Steamer Man has his own van and comes to your home or job.
As far as the slurry stuff is concerned, just remember that the bottom hole and filter will have to come out and there are cautions elsewhere in this forum about how to remove the filter.
HTH!
Cheers,
11-11-2005, 07:35 AM
#15
Plastic welding kits come with plastic rod and a soldering iron. It should be possible to melt out the crack, build up a big bead and buble gum up the area. Heating the area with a heat gun should remove any stress to the weld. A pro would have a hot air welder and many types of rod.
I can't say I ever regretted purchasing a used tank, but 300.00 is a lot of pizza.
I can't say I ever regretted purchasing a used tank, but 300.00 is a lot of pizza.