Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Tie rod end boots

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-09-2005, 07:32 PM
  #16  
FlyingDog
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
 
FlyingDog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Not close enough to VIR.
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by a4sfed928
I replaced the upper and lower ball joints along with the tierod end boots with MB parts and they were cheep. I will check as see if I still have the part number.
If you could find the number, I'd appreciate it. If I can't find a rubber replacement, I'll get some Energy Suspension polyurethane caps.
Old 11-09-2005, 07:39 PM
  #17  
Imo000
Captain Obvious
Super User
 
Imo000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,846
Received 338 Likes on 244 Posts
Default

See if you can find it on Nichol's site. Audi has them for sure. I bought 2 myself.
Old 11-09-2005, 09:21 PM
  #18  
AO
Supercharged
Rennlist Member
 
AO's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Posts: 18,925
Likes: 0
Received 60 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

[QUOTE=j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net]Count threads to maintain alignment. [QUOTE]

NO! Counting threads will not keep alignment. The best way to assure your allignment will stay staus quo is to take an old rotor and mount it inside out (so it sticks out from the car). Then glue a Harbor freight laser level to the now outside face. Point it to the wall (level) and mark the wall with a Sharpie. Now you can disassemble. Upon re-assembly, you now have a reference point to put the toe back too. Oh yeah, if you raise the entire front end, get a steering rack centering bolt to make sure your steering doesn't go catiwompas (SP?).

Matt- If the boot has been split for some time, it's probably better to replace tie rod end itself as there will probably be contaminants in ball joint and shorten its life considerably.
Old 11-09-2005, 09:43 PM
  #19  
FlyingDog
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
 
FlyingDog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Not close enough to VIR.
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

They have torn recently in terms of miles. When it was on the lift at Frenzy I checked the joints. The only thing that wiggled was the rack moving up and down. I'm trying to find substitute rack bushings because just under $20/each for 4 of those things is way too much.
Old 11-09-2005, 11:08 PM
  #20  
AO
Supercharged
Rennlist Member
 
AO's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Posts: 18,925
Likes: 0
Received 60 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by FlyingDog
They have torn recently in terms of miles. When it was on the lift at Frenzy I checked the joints. The only thing that wiggled was the rack moving up and down. I'm trying to find substitute rack bushings because just under $20/each for 4 of those things is way too much.
Inspect them well. Make sure there isn't any sand or metal shavings like I found on one of mine (I replaced them both). As for the bushings, take one out and go to the local auto store. I'll bet you can find a suitable replacement for about $2 a piece (ok maybe $5). Good luck. A.O. OUT!
Old 11-10-2005, 12:38 PM
  #21  
j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
Rennlist Member
 
j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Park Ridge, IL (near Chicago)
Posts: 3,256
Received 48 Likes on 41 Posts
Default

Andrew,
Yours is a much better way to maintain alignment. I really meant to count threads to maintain approximate alignment until it could be formally checked.
Dave McK.
Old 11-10-2005, 01:29 PM
  #22  
AO
Supercharged
Rennlist Member
 
AO's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Posts: 18,925
Likes: 0
Received 60 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
Andrew,
Yours is a much better way to maintain alignment. I really meant to count threads to maintain approximate alignment until it could be formally checked.
Dave McK.

It works amazingly well and only costs a few bucks. I've used it several times now. I highly recommend it.
Old 11-10-2005, 07:10 PM
  #23  
jpitman2
Rennlist Member
 
jpitman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 5,283
Received 48 Likes on 45 Posts
Default

FWIW, when i replaced my rack boots (bellows?), I found generic boots at a parts store quite cheap, with ties to fix them. Also, on my 83 the small ends (outers on the tie rod) fit on spacers of at least 2"/50mm diameter, and I was able to slide the new boot over the tie rod end and not disturb the alignment settings at all.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k
Old 11-10-2005, 08:12 PM
  #24  
FlyingDog
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
 
FlyingDog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Not close enough to VIR.
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jpitman2
FWIW, when i replaced my rack boots (bellows?), I found generic boots at a parts store quite cheap, with ties to fix them. Also, on my 83 the small ends (outers on the tie rod) fit on spacers of at least 2"/50mm diameter, and I was able to slide the new boot over the tie rod end and not disturb the alignment settings at all.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k
Thanks, that's what I was hoping to do.



Quick Reply: Tie rod end boots



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 01:25 AM.