Tie rod end boots
#16
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Originally Posted by a4sfed928
I replaced the upper and lower ball joints along with the tierod end boots with MB parts and they were cheep. I will check as see if I still have the part number.
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[QUOTE=j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net]Count threads to maintain alignment. [QUOTE]
NO! Counting threads will not keep alignment. The best way to assure your allignment will stay staus quo is to take an old rotor and mount it inside out (so it sticks out from the car). Then glue a Harbor freight laser level to the now outside face. Point it to the wall (level) and mark the wall with a Sharpie. Now you can disassemble. Upon re-assembly, you now have a reference point to put the toe back too. Oh yeah, if you raise the entire front end, get a steering rack centering bolt to make sure your steering doesn't go catiwompas (SP?).
Matt- If the boot has been split for some time, it's probably better to replace tie rod end itself as there will probably be contaminants in ball joint and shorten its life considerably.
NO! Counting threads will not keep alignment. The best way to assure your allignment will stay staus quo is to take an old rotor and mount it inside out (so it sticks out from the car). Then glue a Harbor freight laser level to the now outside face. Point it to the wall (level) and mark the wall with a Sharpie. Now you can disassemble. Upon re-assembly, you now have a reference point to put the toe back too. Oh yeah, if you raise the entire front end, get a steering rack centering bolt to make sure your steering doesn't go catiwompas (SP?).
Matt- If the boot has been split for some time, it's probably better to replace tie rod end itself as there will probably be contaminants in ball joint and shorten its life considerably.
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They have torn recently in terms of miles. When it was on the lift at Frenzy I checked the joints. The only thing that wiggled was the rack moving up and down. I'm trying to find substitute rack bushings because just under $20/each for 4 of those things is way too much.
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Originally Posted by FlyingDog
They have torn recently in terms of miles. When it was on the lift at Frenzy I checked the joints. The only thing that wiggled was the rack moving up and down. I'm trying to find substitute rack bushings because just under $20/each for 4 of those things is way too much.
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Andrew,
Yours is a much better way to maintain alignment. I really meant to count threads to maintain approximate alignment until it could be formally checked.
Dave McK.
Yours is a much better way to maintain alignment. I really meant to count threads to maintain approximate alignment until it could be formally checked.
Dave McK.
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Originally Posted by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
Andrew,
Yours is a much better way to maintain alignment. I really meant to count threads to maintain approximate alignment until it could be formally checked.
Dave McK.
Yours is a much better way to maintain alignment. I really meant to count threads to maintain approximate alignment until it could be formally checked.
Dave McK.
It works amazingly well and only costs a few bucks. I've used it several times now. I highly recommend it.
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FWIW, when i replaced my rack boots (bellows?), I found generic boots at a parts store quite cheap, with ties to fix them. Also, on my 83 the small ends (outers on the tie rod) fit on spacers of at least 2"/50mm diameter, and I was able to slide the new boot over the tie rod end and not disturb the alignment settings at all.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k
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Originally Posted by jpitman2
FWIW, when i replaced my rack boots (bellows?), I found generic boots at a parts store quite cheap, with ties to fix them. Also, on my 83 the small ends (outers on the tie rod) fit on spacers of at least 2"/50mm diameter, and I was able to slide the new boot over the tie rod end and not disturb the alignment settings at all.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k