cold weather start problem on '86.5
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Louisville
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cold weather start problem on '86.5
I know this has been discussed before... When my '86.5 is cold and I start her up the idle is low and rough for ~ 5 seconds before idling perfectly. Sometimes the engine will die within those 5 seconds but when I start her back up everything is fine. Sometimes if I attempt to accelerate immetiately after the idle stabilizes the car will not respond to the accelerator and after a few seconds it accelerates perfectly. I think I read all the posts there are on this and it seems the idle stabilzer is always suspect. In those posts the temp fix is to spray a penetrating oil down the vacuum line to the ISV. My question is which vacuum line do I spray into? The previous posts describing this technique were not completely clear to me. Does anyone have a picture- I'm more of a visual person. Thanks for any help.
#2
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Suburban St. Louis in Illinois.
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I too,have this issue with an 86.5 car...I have found though, that the WD-40 "fix" is soooo temporary, it isn't even worth doing. EXCEPT...to verify that the IAC unit IS the culprit, and you most likely ought to get a new one as a "long-term" solution to the problem. At least thats the way I see it, after numerous "hose removal...spray...reclamp...startup, and Eureka !! moments". The short term gratification, leads to long term dismay, when you realize that the quick fix, is only a cue card to the obvious. YMMV.
Oh...and BTW, the hose you spray the WD-40 into , is the large hose connected to the rear fitting on the paasenger side valve cover. This hose runs up and under the intake to the IAC motor.
Oh...and BTW, the hose you spray the WD-40 into , is the large hose connected to the rear fitting on the paasenger side valve cover. This hose runs up and under the intake to the IAC motor.
Last edited by jeff jackson; 10-29-2005 at 10:27 AM.
#3
Rennlist Member
Hi 'mat
I have an 86.5 myself & you described the problem I used to have perfectly.
As you said, it ran rough for 5-10 seconds & then recovered. But if you try to drive away immediately it stumbled like a carbureted car with a bad accelerator pump. If you double pump the throttle it would scream off. That made me think I had a bad TPS. (the double pump reaction) But I had a gut feeling it was a beat MAF. After reading a few posts from John Speake about MAF theory, I bought one of John's MAF's from 928 Intl. & now I'm happier than a fa--ot in Boy's Town! It chirps the tires when it shifts like it did years ago. John is good people. That's my story & I'm stickin' to it! (BTW, I had replaced my idle air stabilizer motor & there was no change)
Thanks John
P.S. Hey John, I think this would make a great tv commercial!
I have an 86.5 myself & you described the problem I used to have perfectly.
As you said, it ran rough for 5-10 seconds & then recovered. But if you try to drive away immediately it stumbled like a carbureted car with a bad accelerator pump. If you double pump the throttle it would scream off. That made me think I had a bad TPS. (the double pump reaction) But I had a gut feeling it was a beat MAF. After reading a few posts from John Speake about MAF theory, I bought one of John's MAF's from 928 Intl. & now I'm happier than a fa--ot in Boy's Town! It chirps the tires when it shifts like it did years ago. John is good people. That's my story & I'm stickin' to it! (BTW, I had replaced my idle air stabilizer motor & there was no change)
Thanks John
P.S. Hey John, I think this would make a great tv commercial!