Installing longer wheel studs?
#1
Drifting
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Anybody do this on the rear of their cars? I have 10" wide rims and the offset means I nee some 17mm spacers. To do that I'll need longer studs. What do I have to do? Cut off the old ones, drill them out and weld longer in? Or can I do something different?
Or, can I drill a new set of holes in between the existing and then thread new ones in and then weld in place, or something to that effect?
Or, can I drill a new set of holes in between the existing and then thread new ones in and then weld in place, or something to that effect?
#3
Nordschleife Master
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Look for the spacers that have studs. Those work slick especially when the new wheels have the pockets between studs like most Porsche wheels do.
An alternative is new studs. The old ones are pressed out with new ones pressed in. Best done with the hub off the car.
An alternative is new studs. The old ones are pressed out with new ones pressed in. Best done with the hub off the car.
#4
Drifting
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Yeah, but wouldn't the alum. not necessarily hold up to cornering? These will be track wheels? I can make ones that look like that out of what I have in my hand.
#5
Drifting
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Hey Curt,
The wheels are aluminum are they not? The spacers work great, I have never had a spacer related failure. The factory GT spacers are aluminum, 17mm and have the extra set of studs. They are hubcentric and not exactly cheap. 85/86 cars came with longer studs and 21mm spacers that did not have their own set of studs.
If you are really worried about racing, the proper offset wheels would eliminate the added weight of the spacer...
The wheels are aluminum are they not? The spacers work great, I have never had a spacer related failure. The factory GT spacers are aluminum, 17mm and have the extra set of studs. They are hubcentric and not exactly cheap. 85/86 cars came with longer studs and 21mm spacers that did not have their own set of studs.
If you are really worried about racing, the proper offset wheels would eliminate the added weight of the spacer...
#6
Drifting
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I've been told, this is why I ask, that they are not really a safe bet. And some groups won't allow you on thrack with them installed? I was going to have my machine shop CNC machine a couple up for me. Then Paul D. sent me some to try instead. So i may use cut these down to size and add holes for the extra set of studs.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
#7
Drifting
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Modifying them is a no-no. Get the ones you need. They are structurally different and I would never trust a set of "modified" spacers. They also must be hubcentric, not just a plate.
PCA, SCCA, NASA, and several vintage groups don't have a problem with running them.
PCA, SCCA, NASA, and several vintage groups don't have a problem with running them.
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#9
Drifting
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THe ones I have are hubcentric. I would just add the extra holes to them. Or should I just make some up that are hub centric as in the model above?
#10
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To replace the rear 55mm studs with the 72mm ones requires the hub to be prerssed out of the bearing (IIRC): As the 10 studs are not exactly cheap, they may seem more so when you buy two new bearings ... and get them pressed in. There is also the fun of dismantling the emergency brake cable from the carrier, etc ..... This makes the bolt-on type spacer look pretty good!
I've had a 28mm set on the rear of my '80 for at least 10 years, and a 21mm set on the S4 when the stock 8" wheels were used: each set are TUV approved ( sourced in Germany), so that should ease any concern about road worthiness. As Dave says, the oem GT spacers are of this type.
Looking at the ease of installation and regulatory approval available, I'd go with the bolt-on type.
I've had a 28mm set on the rear of my '80 for at least 10 years, and a 21mm set on the S4 when the stock 8" wheels were used: each set are TUV approved ( sourced in Germany), so that should ease any concern about road worthiness. As Dave says, the oem GT spacers are of this type.
Looking at the ease of installation and regulatory approval available, I'd go with the bolt-on type.