docmirror

This is a low tech try, but use a screwdriver to short from the solenoid connector on the starter to the big lug on the starter. Put the key in the on position, and short those two connectors. You should see an arc from the area, and the engine should crank. If not, trace back the wire from the solenoid to the relay board.

If you have a meter, check for 12V on the big starter lug, then check for 12V when the key is in the start position on the solenoid (smaller) lug on the starter. You may have boogered something up with those wires while messing around in there.

Do not get crushed while under there!

Doc

dr bob

I'm a little late to this thread, sorry (was SharktoberFesting and working...)

The aluminum pan will expand off the plug some just from warming the engine. Aluminum sump grow faster than the steel plug. Start the engine to warm the oil, then wrench on the plug/bolt.

Oil filter comes loose easier when it's warm too. Don't get burned from hot oil.

Battery should not drain with strap removed. Did the strap fall back onto a ground/surface? There are a couple critical connections on the starter, and that harness that you moved to get to the business end of the steering rack. Put the smaller solenoid trigger wire back onto the solenoid.


For those thinking about doing the MM project at home: Power tools save a lot of time on this project. Dropping the swaybar is a no-brainer when you have a small impact gun to manage the bolts. Even the electric impacts help a lot. Steering rack bolts spin right out with almost no unprintable words. If you find critical suspension bolts that have been overtorqued, replace them with new. For all bolts, use the torque wrench on assembly. Most steel suspension bolts with lockwashers deserve a dab of anti-sieze for that someday when you want to take them apart again.

AO

Thanks Doc and Dr. Bob. I really need to take a few minutes to re-check everything and make sure that the battery is good. The strap has some rubber insulation on it, but it's marginal. I could be that it was simply making contact through a hole in the insulation - discharging the battery unbeknownst to me. I'll update as soon as I get home tonight.

If I get her started I'll let her warm up really good, and then try the oil drain bolt one more time. If it doesn't come off easily, I'll leave it for the Frenzy, but this all supposes that I'll get her started... Need to take it one step at a time.

AO

I just went out to try again... NOTHING!

I really didn't want to get under the car just yet... so I inspected the main terminal block inside the engine at the jump terminal. I noticed, that some of the insulation is starting to deteriorate (that's a project for another day). I pushed down to make sure everything was seated, then I connected my portable jump battery thingy and gave it one more try...

BWAAAAAAA! Plus it now rocks! Very cool! I disconnected the jump pack and tried restarting it. Started right up, but I might have a battery that's on it's way out. I'll take it in tomorrow to have it load tested.

I got my replacement hot water valve today, so I'll go ahead and replace that tonight.

FRENZY, here I come!

AFARR

"it appears you have angered the 928 gods"--what kind of a stereo do you have in the car? Mixing Japanese components with a German Vehicle on US Soil is asking for trouble!!

dr bob

This is a very tough judgement-- the Blau head unit in my 928 was built in Asia someplace. I do only listen to periofd music on it, if that helps. Am I in any danger?

Andrew:

Great to hear that it's running! I cross my fingers every time I do some major work then dive behind the wheel.

Please offer a shotglass of coolant at the shrine for me. My next project is finding the leak...

AFARR

Yep---GRAVE danger. You need to find an EARLY unit....something that has 8 WHOLE tracks to the tape...To be safe, better MINE your OWN copper for the wire locally....

wds928

Andrew, great job. See you at Frenzy this weekend, I want buy you a cold one and pick your brain on the motor mount replacement. My Anchor MM's are still on my workbench.

The only thing I'm doing this week before Frenzy is a complete detailing of the very black paint (actually just the clearcoat), a four step process. Griot's #3 polish, Zymol HD Clense, Meguire's Mirror Glaze, then Zymol Carbon wax. So far, I've done just the front clip and hood.

My MM's will be a project for November!

FlyingDog

Andrew, check your ground strap to the battery. Last week when I was screwing with a half dead fuel pump on my dad's Saab, it did the same thing. I kept messing with positive leads and getting it to work, but the problem (everything turns on with key, then nothing) kept coming back. Eventually I checked the ground wire to the battery which I had disconnected earlier and found the wire was loose in the clamp. Reclamped the wire and haven't had the 'nothing' problem since.

My car is finally legal and roadworthy! If you got the space I'd like to join you. I've had the MMs for about a year.

AO

Bill-
I'd be happy to drink your beer. We'll definately hook up.

Matt-
I can't emagine that it was the ground strap as I had cabin lights, dash, and radio, but I'll check just to be sure.

I guess all told, the worst part was dealing with the damn over-torqued bolts (2 were so tight it stripped the threads!). If you have air tools, the job will go much faster - a helper will do wonders too! Half of my time was spent getting out from under the car to get another tool or to move to the other side. After that, the next wosrt thing was getting the cross member out of the way as the control arms like to hang it up. I think next time (hopefully NOT) I'd probably remove the bolt on the strut and completely remove the lower control arm instead of fighting with it. I think two of you working together with air tools could knock one car out in about 4-5 hours.

Anyway, see you soon.

AO

I wanted to update you all on the dramatic transformation as a result of this job.

Last night I finished everything up - The hot water valve to the heater block was leaking (warm air all the time), so I replaced it, but when I went to put the new one in 2 nights ago, one of the hose clamps decided it didn't want to cooperate. With my wife out of town and the kids in bed, I couldn't sneak down to the auto parts store and get a new one, so it had to wait until last night. Took all of 10 minutes to put a new hose and clamps on and I was in business. Checked for leaks - none.

I lowered the car (finally), tightened the lugs, and took her out around the block a few times.

OMG! What a difference! The car always had some vibration and noise in the cabin. It almost felt/sounded like a bearing was going bad - so there was always this little knot in my stomach waiting for some catastrophic event to occur. But as soon as I started driving the car last night that knot went away. The car now feels like it's gliding on butter! I've never had a car so smooth before! I still need to take it up to highway speeds, but I'm relatively sure it will perform equally well. I am very satisfied!

If your engine doesn't rock, do this job. It's messy, dirty, and uncomfortable, but the results are totally worth it.

wds928

Way to go Andrew. I hope my MM project in November (date yet to be determined, but adult beverage will be provided......) goes as well. I'll be doing the oil pan gasket and checking the rod bearings too.

See you this weekend. Drive quickly, safely and avoid moving violations.

Peter F

Thanks for update Andrew,

MM is in the soon to do list together with TT bearings.

Cheers/Peter