Okay, I have tried varying degrees of force but to no avail. I have a pry bar but with the water pump already out I am afraid to damage anything. I have also tried a basic 6-inch two-claw puller, but with the rear timing belt cover in place it is almost impossible to get a grip. Anyone have a tool suggestion? I have replacement parts for those two big "washer" discs on either side, so am not worried about damaging those (and they're damaged anyway, hence the need to get this off).

 

You could try a faucet puller. They aren't overly strong so you have to be careful and go slow. However, it will easily get behind the crank sprocket.

BTW, the big belt alignment washers come off without removing the crank sprocket.

 

Use some WD40 on the crank, and get a standart 3 claw puller(I used one from PepBoys, the cheapest one is like 10$). It will be a hard fit, but it is possible, cause I did this 2 months ago. You won't be able to engage 3 claws but I think you will get a grip with 2, and when it will come out a little bit, you will put the third one on.

Hope it helps,

Klim

 

Get the front cone washer/belt guide off. That woodruff key moves around a little in the slot. On mine, it had rolled up a little in the front (where the balancer sits...) so that it was a little tough to get the gear to move over it. A gentle tap or two with a small machinists hammer rolled the key and also pressed it into the crank slot a little more, allowing the gear to come off with finger pressure. Once it started to move, it was quite easy to remove it completely.

HTH!

 

Tapping the woodruff key doesn't move it, it seems pretty well seated. So, that is a separate part that will come out? I don't know how much PB blaster I've sprayed there. I'll have to give the 3-claw a try, but with the radiator in the way, there's not much room. Its the back washer/guide that's really giving me trouble, making it hard to get a grip.

 

Oh, you have the engine in the car. I did this when the engine was outside)) But removing the radiator is very easy(2 bolts, 3 hoses). So, if it won't fit, try removing it.

Klim

 

The objective to tapping the woodruff key that dr Bob mentiones is to have the top face absolutely parallel with the crank axis. As the bottom of the key is circular, it will sometimes 'rock' in its slot, therby jamming the crank gear.
If it has moved the reverse way, you may have to pry upwards on the exposed tip to achieve parallel.
Also note that the slighest burr can jam up the works: I've had to curl up like a pretzel under Rick's car with small gunsmith files to dress the key to the correct shape & finish .... then the gear slid off.
As the tin thrust washers are to be replaced, you can work a flat blade screwdriver between the rear one and the gear .... and apply pressure by twisting. If you do so while tapping the crank gear with a plastic/brass hammer, I think it will move.

 

Two flat-bladed screwdrivers, PB-blaster, and many trys worked for me. Spray it, let it sit a while, then get the 2 screwdrivers behind the pulley and try to wiggle it. Once you get it to move a bit you're almost there, just keep prying and wiggling. It took a week or so giving it a shot each night last time I did it.

 

Well, it looks like a combination of all of the above worked! Thanks folks. I picked up a set of 3-arm gear pullers and mixed-and-matched to make one that would fit inside the space between the radiator and plastic shroud, then switched off as it started pulling out to make more room and had to replace the crank bolt so the tip wouldn't drive inside the hole. But, it is now off and I can clean up all that black spooge from an obviously weepy front crank gasket. Thanks all!