First time at the drags with the SC!
10-24-2005, 11:51 PM
#16
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That is very impressive. 
Originally Posted by Imo000
I built the whole thing myself. Had a Paxton SC kit left over from my '93 Trans am. I tried re use as much as possible but ended up only using the supercharger and nothing more. My setup has the dissadvantage of having the SC in the same spot as the AC compressor. Since my AC hasn't worked in 10 years,it wasn't an issue to remove it.
I had an idea of using that space for a superchager install. Shaark89 posted pictures of his SC setup. The SC on his car was where the AC compressor used to be too, except his car is a 6.0L stoker with a Vortech SC.
I mocked it all up using a cardoard at first, then used plexigass and aluminium tubing to make a tamplate. The reason for the plexi was the ease of seeing where to drill the mounting holes.
Once I had the template ready, I scavanged an old milling machine access panel door to make the mounting bracket. the end product was a heavily reinforced mounting plate.
The pulley came off an early 90's Ford Crown Voctoria I found in the junk yard. Had the same diametre and rib numbers as the one on the Trans Am. I welded this to the original pulley and called it a day.
The FMU was Shaark89's old one, that he sold to me. The blow off valves are also salvaged units. One came off a 90s Nissan 300ZX TT, and the other from a Ford Probe GT Turbo. The "3.5 90 degree elbow at the MAF meter was from the local Mack dealer and the clamp came form the Peterbuilt dealer. All the piping was bent at the local muffler shop. Bough a 4 foot lenght of 2.5" HD rad hose at NAPA to connecte the piping .The clamps, besides at the "3.5 elbow, are regular hose clamps. The air filter is bolted right to the end of the SC and is a 6" K&N unit with a 3.5" inlet. The SC belt was also from Napa.
Without the SC and the FMU the total cost was $250 CDN (~$200 USD). The FMU was $55 incl. shipping (on E-bay they sell for about the same), and if I include the cost of a used Paxton supercharger (~$550-600), the total cost is arund $1000 USD.
The A/F gage and the boost gage is not included in this calculation, they are not essential to a basic SC kit and they wre also left overs fromthe Trans Am.
"If you can't afford to buy it, build it"
Attached is a picture of the finished product. You can see the top of the SC at the bottom left corner of the engine bay.
DFWX, the transmission and rear end is stock as far as I know.
I had an idea of using that space for a superchager install. Shaark89 posted pictures of his SC setup. The SC on his car was where the AC compressor used to be too, except his car is a 6.0L stoker with a Vortech SC.
I mocked it all up using a cardoard at first, then used plexigass and aluminium tubing to make a tamplate. The reason for the plexi was the ease of seeing where to drill the mounting holes.
Once I had the template ready, I scavanged an old milling machine access panel door to make the mounting bracket. the end product was a heavily reinforced mounting plate.
The pulley came off an early 90's Ford Crown Voctoria I found in the junk yard. Had the same diametre and rib numbers as the one on the Trans Am. I welded this to the original pulley and called it a day.
The FMU was Shaark89's old one, that he sold to me. The blow off valves are also salvaged units. One came off a 90s Nissan 300ZX TT, and the other from a Ford Probe GT Turbo. The "3.5 90 degree elbow at the MAF meter was from the local Mack dealer and the clamp came form the Peterbuilt dealer. All the piping was bent at the local muffler shop. Bough a 4 foot lenght of 2.5" HD rad hose at NAPA to connecte the piping .The clamps, besides at the "3.5 elbow, are regular hose clamps. The air filter is bolted right to the end of the SC and is a 6" K&N unit with a 3.5" inlet. The SC belt was also from Napa.
Without the SC and the FMU the total cost was $250 CDN (~$200 USD). The FMU was $55 incl. shipping (on E-bay they sell for about the same), and if I include the cost of a used Paxton supercharger (~$550-600), the total cost is arund $1000 USD.
The A/F gage and the boost gage is not included in this calculation, they are not essential to a basic SC kit and they wre also left overs fromthe Trans Am.
"If you can't afford to buy it, build it"
Attached is a picture of the finished product. You can see the top of the SC at the bottom left corner of the engine bay.
DFWX, the transmission and rear end is stock as far as I know.
10-25-2005, 08:33 AM
#17
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nice job. glad i could be of assistance/inspiration. there are some really nice air oil separators out there that should solve the breather issues without needing a catch can. been used in turbo diesel trucks for eons. may want to touch base with dr on that.
10-25-2005, 05:31 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by shaaark89
nice job. glad i could be of assistance/inspiration. there are some really nice air oil separators out there that should solve the breather issues without needing a catch can. been used in turbo diesel trucks for eons. may want to touch base with dr on that.
Will that be the ligth diesel trucks of the big rigs?
10-25-2005, 06:07 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
What did you do with the vapor recovery system? At least on later cars you must disconnect that or the gas tank will inflate.
What have they done?
10-25-2005, 06:46 PM
#20
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So far, my oil/air seperator has worked well, and passed the 16 second dyno test on a vortech. I suspect it will work also on a twin screw. We have one more test to do, then will build a few for sale.
So far, all the SC kits I have seen do not have an engineered system for crankcase breathing. Just hang the hose out in the air or to a catch tank ... which overflows over time. Maybe there are some engineered solutions in the works, I have not seen any yet.
It may be hard to believe, but oil is flamable, very flamable...........right?
Regards,
Marc
So far, all the SC kits I have seen do not have an engineered system for crankcase breathing. Just hang the hose out in the air or to a catch tank ... which overflows over time. Maybe there are some engineered solutions in the works, I have not seen any yet.
It may be hard to believe, but oil is flamable, very flamable...........right?
Regards,
Marc
10-25-2005, 07:04 PM
#21
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Looks to me like DR has it dialed in?
It will be intersting to see what yours looks like Marc.
So far i havent had any issues with oil consumption, seals or dipsticks being blown out. I am far from an engineer on this stuff and just put a system together from all the info i gathered on here and from what i saw Louie had made for his motor while at the IOC the other year.
In principle the way i see it, (right or wrong, i dunno) is to have a big enough tube for ventalation and also to provide enough internal separtaion , good baffling or filtering to casue any oil to dropout of suspension before it is sent back to the intake sytem. Oil that is dropped out is simply routed back to the pan...or drained?
I dump my vapors into the exhaust and i have a small tube down by my driver door for a drain..where i have yet to see any substantial amount of oil. All i have is a light film/discolored area that trials behind it?
no discoloration on the rear bumper cover either.
My car is only street driven at this point with the occasional drag run tossed in. The sloshing and longer duration found in ORR or DE's will be the real test.
It will be intersting to see what yours looks like Marc.
So far i havent had any issues with oil consumption, seals or dipsticks being blown out. I am far from an engineer on this stuff and just put a system together from all the info i gathered on here and from what i saw Louie had made for his motor while at the IOC the other year.
In principle the way i see it, (right or wrong, i dunno) is to have a big enough tube for ventalation and also to provide enough internal separtaion , good baffling or filtering to casue any oil to dropout of suspension before it is sent back to the intake sytem. Oil that is dropped out is simply routed back to the pan...or drained?
I dump my vapors into the exhaust and i have a small tube down by my driver door for a drain..where i have yet to see any substantial amount of oil. All i have is a light film/discolored area that trials behind it?
no discoloration on the rear bumper cover either.
My car is only street driven at this point with the occasional drag run tossed in. The sloshing and longer duration found in ORR or DE's will be the real test.