Partial LCU Bypass query...
Thread Starter
User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,291
Likes: 2
From: Midland, Texas
Partial LCU Bypass query...
Bite me, Bite me, Bite me!
Verily, I say unto you;
Having listened to and applied all sage advise and wisdom
from sHARk owner present and past, Rennlist and 918 OC members,
BTDT, Shade Tree Mechanics, Automotive Electrical Shop owners,
apparent Electrical Engineers, repeaters of the Sacred Ground Lore, educated guessers and those of the 'try this' persuasion.
Truly, even those who would assume I don't know where the fuse/relay panel is let alone the fuses, relays, octopus-multiple ground point, body grounds or what a brown wire is.
Nor, how to read an analog, or digital multi-meter, schematic, trace wiring, or,
or use a static light.
I've had it!
Want I want to do:
1. Eliminate the brakelight, brake pad and brake fluid, headlight, fogs and running light warns from the LCU/Warn/Master Warn/Caution loop.
2. Install a single wire high output alternator in leiu of the OEM unit.
What I need is any enlightening input from BTDT types who have gone down the path I am heading.
From looking at the schematics/Current Flow Diagrams it would seem that the lightswitch/ignition switch, power and fusing/relays are outside the LCU and the warn system if I simply jump cold solder/connectors around the LCU.
The jumper has no downside for me as I check all fluids and lights several times a week.
Can this be done without glitching some other part of the warn system as I still want water temp., -not neccessarily the coolant level-, oil warn?
As to the alternator:
I'm thinking of modifying the alt. support bracket or removing the air pump altogether and fabricating the necessary mount hardware for installation.
Yeah, I know I'll have to make sure the pully type and alignment are correct.
How do I 'go' to a single wire system is my lead question?
Has anyone out there done a similar swap? Input PUHLEEEASE!
Fess up, fear not the wrath of the Purist's
One last thing. Good intentions aside, I do not want or need further advice on how to 'fix' the OEM electricals. I've had Zack's White and Pattycakes the Wunder Weissach APART from front to rear, interior out, exhausts, heat shields dropped, consoles, fuse/relay panel and dash pulled, hood off, front and rear bumpercovers as well as the front and rear splash shields removed.
All connectors sockets, clips... brite and shiny or replaced.
If this doesn't work I plan on fabricating my own color coded wire runs/looms with and without the LCU in the loop which I will sell for a small pile of your money.
HELP ME, Oh Wise and Sweaty Ones
Verily, I say unto you;
Having listened to and applied all sage advise and wisdom
from sHARk owner present and past, Rennlist and 918 OC members,
BTDT, Shade Tree Mechanics, Automotive Electrical Shop owners,
apparent Electrical Engineers, repeaters of the Sacred Ground Lore, educated guessers and those of the 'try this' persuasion.
Truly, even those who would assume I don't know where the fuse/relay panel is let alone the fuses, relays, octopus-multiple ground point, body grounds or what a brown wire is.
Nor, how to read an analog, or digital multi-meter, schematic, trace wiring, or,
or use a static light.
I've had it!
Want I want to do:
1. Eliminate the brakelight, brake pad and brake fluid, headlight, fogs and running light warns from the LCU/Warn/Master Warn/Caution loop.
2. Install a single wire high output alternator in leiu of the OEM unit.
What I need is any enlightening input from BTDT types who have gone down the path I am heading.
From looking at the schematics/Current Flow Diagrams it would seem that the lightswitch/ignition switch, power and fusing/relays are outside the LCU and the warn system if I simply jump cold solder/connectors around the LCU.
The jumper has no downside for me as I check all fluids and lights several times a week.
Can this be done without glitching some other part of the warn system as I still want water temp., -not neccessarily the coolant level-, oil warn?
As to the alternator:
I'm thinking of modifying the alt. support bracket or removing the air pump altogether and fabricating the necessary mount hardware for installation.
Yeah, I know I'll have to make sure the pully type and alignment are correct.
How do I 'go' to a single wire system is my lead question?
Has anyone out there done a similar swap? Input PUHLEEEASE!
Fess up, fear not the wrath of the Purist's
One last thing. Good intentions aside, I do not want or need further advice on how to 'fix' the OEM electricals. I've had Zack's White and Pattycakes the Wunder Weissach APART from front to rear, interior out, exhausts, heat shields dropped, consoles, fuse/relay panel and dash pulled, hood off, front and rear bumpercovers as well as the front and rear splash shields removed.
All connectors sockets, clips... brite and shiny or replaced.
If this doesn't work I plan on fabricating my own color coded wire runs/looms with and without the LCU in the loop which I will sell for a small pile of your money.
HELP ME, Oh Wise and Sweaty Ones
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 52
From: AZ
Just unplug the connectors from the warning unit. You won't have any warnings, but it appears that you've had it with the warnings that you're getting.
What is your problem with the OEM alternator?
What is your problem with the OEM alternator?
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,212
Likes: 465
The 'Central Warning' system was an option (but probably all US bound cars got it). The oil, water, brake fluid level sensors were part of the option package. If you didn't order it, you got an empty box with the proper jumpers inside.
click pic for thread
I replaced the central warning brain with jumpers, and the brake light brain with a jumper connector.
click pic for thread
I replaced the central warning brain with jumpers, and the brake light brain with a jumper connector.
Thread Starter
User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,291
Likes: 2
From: Midland, Texas
Rich,
I believe all my warn problems are between the LCU and the Warn unit INCLUSIVE so simply disconnecting from the Warn won't get me around the LCU. But, you may be right and I'll have to disconnect as well as JUMP.
Alt.?
Way to many failures and replacements, though I believe this last one was due to me 'swimming the sHARk and the Alt., literally, was submerged. My bad, but no alternative -no pun intended-...
it was a swim now or float in a few minutes situation. I don't like this 90 amp lameness, I've owned motorcycles pushing about the same amp/wattage max.
I believe all my warn problems are between the LCU and the Warn unit INCLUSIVE so simply disconnecting from the Warn won't get me around the LCU. But, you may be right and I'll have to disconnect as well as JUMP.
Alt.?
Way to many failures and replacements, though I believe this last one was due to me 'swimming the sHARk and the Alt., literally, was submerged. My bad, but no alternative -no pun intended-...
it was a swim now or float in a few minutes situation. I don't like this 90 amp lameness, I've owned motorcycles pushing about the same amp/wattage max.
Last edited by John Struthers; Sep 25, 2005 at 04:46 PM.
Thread Starter
User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,291
Likes: 2
From: Midland, Texas
m21sniper,
Preaching to choir on the Paris-Rhone's.
I've been using rebuilt Bosche's but due to turn over,and slow rate battery recharge usually involving cold weather night driving where surplus is reduced due to lights, heater/fans, and radio/CD use.
I'm looking for a late 80's on up Delco/Fomoco alt. as a replacement; for price, availability. Most warranty's are running about the same on rebuilds
As to the Paris Rohnes',I think the other big production run they had was on the Yugo(sic).
Hmmm. M 21... is that a M-14, or that spiffy 20mm I've been hearing about?
Small can of **** whop vs the Econo-Family, MOA, sized?
Thanks.
Preaching to choir on the Paris-Rhone's.
I've been using rebuilt Bosche's but due to turn over,and slow rate battery recharge usually involving cold weather night driving where surplus is reduced due to lights, heater/fans, and radio/CD use.
I'm looking for a late 80's on up Delco/Fomoco alt. as a replacement; for price, availability. Most warranty's are running about the same on rebuilds
As to the Paris Rohnes',I think the other big production run they had was on the Yugo(sic).
Hmmm. M 21... is that a M-14, or that spiffy 20mm I've been hearing about?
Small can of **** whop vs the Econo-Family, MOA, sized?
Thanks.