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Replaced ignition switch, wont crank?

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Old 09-02-2005, 05:13 PM
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ChrisPB
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Default Replaced ignition switch, wont crank?

I recently replaced my ignition switch with a brand new one ordered through the local dealer since the old one fell apart. When I insert the key and turn it, i get full accessories at the appropriate positions, but for some reason it doesn't want to crank(also feels like the starter-lockout doesn't work all the time). When I short between a power source at the fuse panel and the starter bridge, the car will crank and start right up like it used to.

When attempting to put the old ignition switch back together, it's possible something could have shorted... I dunno exactly what to check next other than the ignition switch itself which is brand new(which I was so quick to bury behind the pod/dash).

Anyone have any ideas? Car is a '78 Euro 5-speed.

Thanks,
Chris

(Can someone tell me how to enter a sig, cant find the option any more )
Old 09-03-2005, 12:03 AM
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CWO4Mann
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Originally Posted by ChrisPB
I recently replaced my ignition switch with a brand new one ordered through the local dealer since the old one fell apart. When I insert the key and turn it, i get full accessories at the appropriate positions, but for some reason it doesn't want to crank(also feels like the starter-lockout doesn't work all the time). When I short between a power source at the fuse panel and the starter bridge, the car will crank and start right up like it used to.

When attempting to put the old ignition switch back together, it's possible something could have shorted... I dunno exactly what to check next other than the ignition switch itself which is brand new(which I was so quick to bury behind the pod/dash).

Anyone have any ideas? Car is a '78 Euro 5-speed.

Thanks,
Chris

(Can someone tell me how to enter a sig, cant find the option any more )

Did you check to make sure you had electrical continuity before installing the switch. The switch, even new, may be defective. Also, could you have flexed the wires and perhaps shorted one? In my many experiences involving ignition switches I have found that they are very much like women: you have to push the right buttons and wiggle the right wires. So to speak.

On the signature, go to "user cp" then down to edit user profile. Remember to put in a couple of carriage throws (enter/returns) before the signature begins or else your posting will be smooshed up against the sig.

Oh, and what's your VIN ? mine is in my sig ...

Cheers!
Old 09-03-2005, 12:52 AM
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ChrisPB
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Thanks for the response!

I actually didn't test the switch... looking back, might not have been a bad idea Other than that, I dont think the wires would have gotten damaged. I will make sure to look over those tomorrow if I can get to them very easily. I hate to pull the pod back off again, although I most likely will end up doing so.

I did notice there's a switch on my clutch pedal. Is this just for cruise control? I've never had to press the clutch pedal in the past to crank the car (even though now, with the new switch, I HAVE tried cranking with the clutch in and out both, neither made a difference).

I guess if the clutch pedal does have a sensor on it that would keep it from cranking unless depressed, mine could possibly be bad?

Would there be anything else in-line from the ignition switch to the bridge on the fuse panel? Where exactly is the source for the power to the ignition switch itself?

Thanks again for the help.
Old 09-03-2005, 12:52 AM
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Mrmerlin
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I would check the starter relay on the fuse panel might swap with the horn relay
Old 09-03-2005, 03:40 AM
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His 5 speed car has no starter relay just the bridge which he spoke of jumping. The connector metal between the ignition lock and the electrical switch is superceded to a different style to work with the new 964 part number electrical switch. After you remove the pod and the electrical switch attach the harness plug and turn the electric switch with a screw driver to see if it works. If it does you probably need the updated metal.
Old 09-05-2005, 04:58 PM
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ChrisPB
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OK, I pulled the pod and the ignition switch back off, turned the switch with a screwdriver and the car cranked and started right up. It seems as though it's just not turning it far enough. jebdog, are you saying I need to buy a new control cam like this?

http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...347%20919%2000

Or are you talking about another adapter? Would have been nice for a bit of a warning at the dealership when I bought it. I wonder why they decided to "tweak" the switch just that little bit?

BTW, Dave my VIN is 9288102572... not exactly one of the first off the production line.
Old 09-07-2005, 12:44 PM
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ChrisPB
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I just got off the phone with the local dealership and they show no new "cam" or adapter that is supposed to go with that new ignition switch. He said they have a system which pulls up everything related that's necessary to replace and all it shows is the electrical switch.

Can anyone provide me with more information on that new piece jebdog mentioned? I don't see anything on the big 3 websites that specifically mentions an upgraded piece. Will any of the cams with the cross shaped connector (see link in last post) work? The cam on my car is the straight/flat head.

Has anyone else had this trouble or was my old switch just misaligned/broken?

TIA
Chris
'78 Euro 5-speed Guards Red



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