"Broken Timing Belt"--Bent Valves...worth fixing?
#16
Drifting
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If a cam belt has failed, the car probably has other deferred maintenance issues.
It isn't always practical to remove the engine, and yes it can be done in situ (85-86 32V excepted).
It doesn't matter how many valves are damaged, because you don't replace them - you replace the heads complete (there are plenty of thrust bearing failure donors).
The rebuild kit is a head gasket set, the heads, all cam belt parts (including sprockets and rollers), plus various optional "be foolish not to" items (knock sensors, flappy actuator etc).
The biggest problem is the sheer length of time it takes, and the number and cost of tools it requires.
When you've done all the work it will run much much better than before the belt failed.
I wouldn't consider doing it for anything other than a low mileage 32V manual that was available at a giveaway price, that I had prior knowledge of before the failure; but if one came up I'd be sorely tempted...
It isn't always practical to remove the engine, and yes it can be done in situ (85-86 32V excepted).
It doesn't matter how many valves are damaged, because you don't replace them - you replace the heads complete (there are plenty of thrust bearing failure donors).
The rebuild kit is a head gasket set, the heads, all cam belt parts (including sprockets and rollers), plus various optional "be foolish not to" items (knock sensors, flappy actuator etc).
The biggest problem is the sheer length of time it takes, and the number and cost of tools it requires.
When you've done all the work it will run much much better than before the belt failed.
I wouldn't consider doing it for anything other than a low mileage 32V manual that was available at a giveaway price, that I had prior knowledge of before the failure; but if one came up I'd be sorely tempted...
#17
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Thanks for the input==>
The car I was considering went for $2k (1980 manual, no sunroof, interior pretty good, exterior pretty good, the "timing belt" was supposedly changed right after it was broken, but the car wouldn't start after that...so, might have a bit more issues).
However, at $1k (the start on the auction), I thought it would have been worth it just in parts alone..
Thanks again.
AFARR
The car I was considering went for $2k (1980 manual, no sunroof, interior pretty good, exterior pretty good, the "timing belt" was supposedly changed right after it was broken, but the car wouldn't start after that...so, might have a bit more issues).
However, at $1k (the start on the auction), I thought it would have been worth it just in parts alone..
Thanks again.
AFARR
#18
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Originally Posted by UKKid35
If a cam belt has failed, the car probably has other deferred maintenance issues.
It isn't always practical to remove the engine, and yes it can be done in situ (85-86 32V excepted).
It doesn't matter how many valves are damaged, because you don't replace them - you replace the heads complete (there are plenty of thrust bearing failure donors).
The rebuild kit is a head gasket set, the heads, all cam belt parts (including sprockets and rollers), plus various optional "be foolish not to" items (knock sensors, flappy actuator etc).
The biggest problem is the sheer length of time it takes, and the number and cost of tools it requires.
When you've done all the work it will run much much better than before the belt failed.
I wouldn't consider doing it for anything other than a low mileage 32V manual that was available at a giveaway price, that I had prior knowledge of before the failure; but if one came up I'd be sorely tempted...
It isn't always practical to remove the engine, and yes it can be done in situ (85-86 32V excepted).
It doesn't matter how many valves are damaged, because you don't replace them - you replace the heads complete (there are plenty of thrust bearing failure donors).
The rebuild kit is a head gasket set, the heads, all cam belt parts (including sprockets and rollers), plus various optional "be foolish not to" items (knock sensors, flappy actuator etc).
The biggest problem is the sheer length of time it takes, and the number and cost of tools it requires.
When you've done all the work it will run much much better than before the belt failed.
I wouldn't consider doing it for anything other than a low mileage 32V manual that was available at a giveaway price, that I had prior knowledge of before the failure; but if one came up I'd be sorely tempted...
As far as emotional attachment.......SURE! That's why I play around with these cars!
#19
Three Wheelin'
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Am I missing something here? A 1980 should be a 16V motor, right? So no interference engine, no bent valves. Although if it's sat for a long time, who knows what's happened from sitting. But honestly, it would be very easy for a two thousand dollar car to become a ten thousand dollar car and still not be up to snuff.
#20
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BD--
Think about it--the guy had someone (according to the Ebay listing) who knew Porsches change the timing belt. After the change, it didn't run. A good possibility of other problems with the car, even if no valves were bent. Now, I knew that about the car that got me thinking. However, my original post was more of a "what if" of a perfect car with broken belt.....
AFARR
Think about it--the guy had someone (according to the Ebay listing) who knew Porsches change the timing belt. After the change, it didn't run. A good possibility of other problems with the car, even if no valves were bent. Now, I knew that about the car that got me thinking. However, my original post was more of a "what if" of a perfect car with broken belt.....
AFARR
#21
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AFAAR you bring up an interesting point when you mentioned that the 1980 broke a belt and had a replacement BUT never ran again after that... it is quite possible that the harmonic balancer was put on backwards and the timing marks all aligned incorrectly as a result . But any car which does not run can have multiple issues. Sometimes you get lucky sometimes not !
#22
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I have bought 5 928s on ebay. The price on that one is too high. The valves would not be bent, but unless the car otherwise is in extremely good condition and a 5 speed, it is not worth it. If a hard top (no sunroof), it also worth a bit more. On the plus side, the 1980 was the lightest weight 928.
#23
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My car broke a timing belt. 90GT, strokerized race car. Bent 21 of 32 valves. Unknown why the belt broke since the motor had recently undergone a fairly comprehensive inspection for wear and possible problems. Some of the valves probably bent trying to "bump-start" while coasting across the start finish line at Road America at 100+ mph, or during our frantic diagnostic cranking sessions trying to get me back out for qualifying after me having driven 3 full days to make that race..Thanks to Ernest Wong, who's sharp eye noticed, while we were standing there scratching our a**es in puzzlement..."Hey, there's no timing belt here under this little cover..lookie here...." Then after a record time change of the broken belt by all my fellow 928 racers(thanks again), a compression check showed.....Ugly results! Back in the trailer and 3 more days back across the US..Racing is not all enjoyable, not always exciting, and certainly not ever cheap.
Don Hanson
Don Hanson
#24
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And now for something completely different....
Given the hypotheticals from AFARR, I could see buying a near-pristine 928 S4 with timing belt failure. The questions are how much? And what else needs doing? Suppose I knew this S4, had seen it run, and one day the jerkwad owner calls me up and says 'I was driving along, minding my own business when the check belt light came on. By the time I got near home, I heard a clunk-clatter noise. The belt broke'. So, if you can DIY, have the free time, and want to rescue a nice car, it's doable.
For a medium milage, super nice S4 with 5 speed I would pay around $4-5000 with a broke belt. But only if I had seen and heard it run. If there was only anecdotal evidence of previous operation, then I might be skeptical about other work being needed. If a new valve is $45 bucks, I could probably find a used one in servicable condition for half that. Say you bent 16 valves X $25,+ gaskets, belts & stuff maybe around $600, then a couple hundred bucks for surface and valve job. In and out for $1000 out of pocket. Mebee a bit more, but still not a deal breaker.
While the intake is off, clean up the intake and cam covers, new flappy, breather hoses, etc. Might go up to $1600, still in the realm of reasonable. Then, the car is back on the road, and a fully documented upper end engine rebuild with receipts. Yeah, okay I'd do that.
Doc
Given the hypotheticals from AFARR, I could see buying a near-pristine 928 S4 with timing belt failure. The questions are how much? And what else needs doing? Suppose I knew this S4, had seen it run, and one day the jerkwad owner calls me up and says 'I was driving along, minding my own business when the check belt light came on. By the time I got near home, I heard a clunk-clatter noise. The belt broke'. So, if you can DIY, have the free time, and want to rescue a nice car, it's doable.
For a medium milage, super nice S4 with 5 speed I would pay around $4-5000 with a broke belt. But only if I had seen and heard it run. If there was only anecdotal evidence of previous operation, then I might be skeptical about other work being needed. If a new valve is $45 bucks, I could probably find a used one in servicable condition for half that. Say you bent 16 valves X $25,+ gaskets, belts & stuff maybe around $600, then a couple hundred bucks for surface and valve job. In and out for $1000 out of pocket. Mebee a bit more, but still not a deal breaker.
While the intake is off, clean up the intake and cam covers, new flappy, breather hoses, etc. Might go up to $1600, still in the realm of reasonable. Then, the car is back on the road, and a fully documented upper end engine rebuild with receipts. Yeah, okay I'd do that.
Doc