j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

OK, I bit the bullit and resolved to do my MM's this weekend. My Anchor 2698's came from Rock Auto in 48 hours. I looked at one and iwas made is USA and looked heavy duty and fine I guess. Later I thought I should check the other one and it was made in India, it looked fine but the locator pin was in the smaller end (top) whereas the USA mount had the pin at the wide or bottom end. I've got John Pyrtle's picture here and he shows the anchor and OEM mounts side by side and it looks like he has the anchor inverted to get the mounting pin on the bottom?
I called Rock Auto and asked them to send me two more mounts USA if possible. They were nice and said they'd send them and ask for USA.
My question is where does the locating pin go, top or bottom? Can I put the wide part of the mount up or down to get the pin where it's supposed to go?
I could probably figure some of this out but I can'r afford to have my car out of commission for 3-4 days looking for the right part.
Thanks in advance.
Dave McK.

m21sniper

It's self explanatory when you get it all apart.

Believe me bro...those pins are the LEAST of your worries over the next few days.

Good luck...

PS: Now would be a REALLY good time to change your front shocks.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Sniper,
I've got one pin at the fat end on one mount and one pin at the narrow end on the other. Will they both work?
Sorry to be worried.
Dave

m21sniper

Just see how they line up when you get it apart. I remember when we did my partners he used actual Ford mounts, and the pins lined up perfect, but the anchor mounts i got didn't, so i ended up shaving the pins on the down facing side of the mounts off anyway(the top ones did line up). Those pins are only supposed to keep the mount itself from spinning in it's mounting bracket, thereby working the fasteners loose. As long as you've got the pins in place either on the top or bottom you'll be OK. Even with no pins an airgun torqued bolt AINT coming loose on it's own...

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Thanks.

m21sniper

Anytime man.

It's good you asked now, i've been actively trying to purge the process of mount R&R on a 928 from my consciousness.

Another week or two, and i wouldn't have been able to help you.

LOL......did i say good luck?

PSS: Did i mention now would be a very good time to replace your front shocks??? I have a full set of brand new Boges for an 83 928S(i ended up going with bilstiens), i'll sell em to ya cheap if you're interested. Changing the front shocks on the 928 is about 80% of what's required for a mount R&R. IOW, do yourself a favor.....do them now.

LOL.

Ketchmi

Dude! I never get close to the front shocks when doing motormounts. I drop the whole lower arm and leave the rest of it alone.

BTW, it's not as bad of a job as Sniper lets on. I think he was using Playskool tools when he did his.

dr bob

I'm remembering that I just unbolted the lower clamps on the lower inner control arm bushings (those big fat rubber bushings...) and I had to pull down on the inner end of the arm to make room for the crossmember to come clear at the rear. Did not need to drop the whole lower arm, just the inside corners/ends.

I'm therefore not sure that any of my motormount disassembly would have made a difference in the shock R&R process. Did I do mine wrong?

Ketchmi

You are correct, I just didn't come across properly. Do not remove the lower control arm from the spindle or shock! I should have specified "remove the lower control arm from the frame".

Garth S

Dave,
If you go back to my link in post #6 ( of your other MM thread), click in and look at the pic. Unfortunately, the top brackets are on - but underneath, the large diameter end ( with a larger metal flange) sits on the crossmember; it is firmly located there by the large diameter pin...... which is there to allow you to torque the lower nut without spinning the MM when the whole assembly is raised into position.
If your mounts have a small pin on the top end ( with the smaller diameter flange), cut it off: it is not on the Porsche mounts, and is not required. My 'USA' made mounts did not have a top pin.

jserio

Dave, It looks very intimidating but believe me it is not hard. Just time consuming. Get yourself a helper as this is really helpful. If you have some power tools that would be all the more helpful. An impact wrench works wonders on the big nuts.

Now as to those finders you are talking about I believe I had to cut mine off if I remember correctly.

m21sniper

Ketchmi- "BTW, it's not as bad of a job as Sniper lets on. I think he was using Playskool tools when he did his."

It's just a very dirty time consuming job with no good 'shortcuts'.

I'm comparing the 928 mounts to the mount job on a typical car. Typical motor mount change time for most cars is about an hour or two. Even in the nightmarish 1st gen Tauruses where you have to use an air chisel to get at the front right mount all the mounts can be changed in about 3 hrs.

As far as motor mount jobs go, the 928 is by far the most involved i've ever dealt with, by a long shot. The job sucks.

If you're dropping the lower control arms to do your mounts you're fully 1/2 way into a shock job(and it's the hard half). It makes perfect sense changing the shocks while you're at it(which is probably why the walkthrough on the nichols site reccomends a shock change when doing mounts). The thread author also doesn't know how old his shocks are, so changing them with the mounts is a good idea anyway.

No, the job is not 'hard', it's just very time consuming, and very dirty. I think that you guys are so used to the massively labor intensive 928 that you've lost your frame of reference for what a 'normal' mount swap is like, lol. I can literally R&R a chevy Small block V-8 with headers in the same time it takes just to change mounts on a 928.

tv

I just did mine a few days ago while my engine was out. (out for something else) Now thats the way to do it.

I bought the MM's locally and had the same (supposedly) anchor mount made in India, China, and the US. Sadly the worst of 3 quality wise was the US made version. There were differences in all three. Especially in the bolt grooves. You don't want a pin on the top.

A lot of people do the oil pan gasket at the same time. I can not imagine doing that W/O the engine out even though its possible 2 ways. But removing some of those phuckin bolts while lying under the car would drive me nuts.

Almost forgot, i had to grind a tiny bit off the MM bolts at the bottom to let it seat properly.

Garth S

Yes, those are the ones ! I've found they come in both Metric and SAE.

Giovanni

For the top small pin I drew a hole on the mounting hardware. After that, it was a perfect fit. If you will be using an air ratchet, don't only rely on it. Most likely you will need a breaker bar for those 6 bolts. I don't like doing extra work, but I ended moving the starter and alternator (starter was a must since I also changed the oil pan gasket). I do not agree with most people stating "while you there you may as well change...." but I highly recommend changing the oil pan gasket (less than $20).