Question about A/C
My pump is frozen solid and apparently has been for some very long tiime. Just for the hell of it I pressed in the little valve and air came out under pressure. No stuff just air. With the air coming out under pressure is that a good sign that there isn't a leak?
Also, How can you tell if you have an R-12 or R-134 system?
Also, How can you tell if you have an R-12 or R-134 system?
how do you know it was just air? it may have been air mixed with freon. i would think that if it's holding good pressure, then you may not have a leak. if the A/C was converted to r134, then whoever did the job should've specified it somewhere on the A/C components. If you want to be sure and you don't have the tools, take it to jiffy lube and have them evacuate it. they can tell what was/is in there. they can tell if it holds the right pressure too.
Let's say it was R-12. Now with my pump bad and having to replace it, Is there a different pump used with R-134? And, To make is an R-134 system what else needs to be change. AND, If you have an R-12 system why change to R-134 if R-12 is still available?
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Joe:
R-134a systems use adapters on the fill and HP fittings that look like mini cam-lock fittings with threaded holes in the middle for the schraeder valves. They thread over the R-12 fittings that have threads on the outside. Look at the caps on the fittings, how do they attach? If the caps are threaded on the inside and thread over the outside of the fitting, they are the original R-12 fittings. Got a blue and a red cap, with little threaded pins inside to engage the internal threads on the fitting, think R-134a.
If you pump is genuinely frozen up, you'll want to look in the system to see if it grenaded and blew metal bits into the condenser and the drier plumbing. If so, condenser comes out and gets flushed out before the new compressor goes in. Hoses get replaced.
Want R-134a? Replace every o-ring in the system with the new style so the system will hold the new gas in. You'll be part of the way there with the compressor out anyway. Replace the hoses with barrier type while they are out, too. There's a shop on Cypress that will convert your old hoses. AM Auto Air on Lincoln just east of Moody, south side of the street.
Get a new drier, and don't install it until you bring the car here for evacuation and recharge.
Consider the Griffiths kit from 928 International that has all the conversion stuff in it.
Your radiator fans need to be working correctly to keep from grenading the new compressor on high head pressure, especially with R-134a.
R-12 is still available if you have a the EPA 609 license to buy it. Otherwise, R-134a is still an over-the-counter remedy for your AC woes. I buy the bigger cylinders of the stuff myself.
Is your car a candidate for a how-to-do-it video on AC conversion?
R-134a systems use adapters on the fill and HP fittings that look like mini cam-lock fittings with threaded holes in the middle for the schraeder valves. They thread over the R-12 fittings that have threads on the outside. Look at the caps on the fittings, how do they attach? If the caps are threaded on the inside and thread over the outside of the fitting, they are the original R-12 fittings. Got a blue and a red cap, with little threaded pins inside to engage the internal threads on the fitting, think R-134a.
If you pump is genuinely frozen up, you'll want to look in the system to see if it grenaded and blew metal bits into the condenser and the drier plumbing. If so, condenser comes out and gets flushed out before the new compressor goes in. Hoses get replaced.
Want R-134a? Replace every o-ring in the system with the new style so the system will hold the new gas in. You'll be part of the way there with the compressor out anyway. Replace the hoses with barrier type while they are out, too. There's a shop on Cypress that will convert your old hoses. AM Auto Air on Lincoln just east of Moody, south side of the street.
Get a new drier, and don't install it until you bring the car here for evacuation and recharge.
Consider the Griffiths kit from 928 International that has all the conversion stuff in it.
Your radiator fans need to be working correctly to keep from grenading the new compressor on high head pressure, especially with R-134a.
R-12 is still available if you have a the EPA 609 license to buy it. Otherwise, R-134a is still an over-the-counter remedy for your AC woes. I buy the bigger cylinders of the stuff myself.
Is your car a candidate for a how-to-do-it video on AC conversion?
Down here in Oz, the connectors for R12 and R134 are different - when you convert the AC guy will effectively fit a new connector over the top of the R12 one, so that it wont come off without destroying or mangling the old valve somehow. IIRC R12 valves are just normal Schrader tyre valves, but R134 are > 1/2" in dia. R12 here is several $100/kg to discourage its use.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k
Last edited by jpitman2; Jul 27, 2005 at 09:13 PM.
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Joe,
You can get certified to buy R12 off of ebay. I did so last year and got 25 pounds at $8 per pound. Take a look on ebay. You can still get deals. With Dr. Bob in your backyard practically you should be good to go. Have also seen nib compressors on ebay. I have a brand new drier that you can have for $20 if you decide to go that route.
Regards,
You can get certified to buy R12 off of ebay. I did so last year and got 25 pounds at $8 per pound. Take a look on ebay. You can still get deals. With Dr. Bob in your backyard practically you should be good to go. Have also seen nib compressors on ebay. I have a brand new drier that you can have for $20 if you decide to go that route.
Regards,
Joe.
You really need to overhaul the whole systems with a compressor failure.
No ifs, ands or buts about it. Your new compressor won't last long if you don't.
This is not a place to be cheap. Other areas yes, not this one. Drop me a line and I will see if I can help you out.
Garrity
You really need to overhaul the whole systems with a compressor failure.
No ifs, ands or buts about it. Your new compressor won't last long if you don't.
This is not a place to be cheap. Other areas yes, not this one. Drop me a line and I will see if I can help you out.
Garrity
You also need some assurance that the r12 is virgin; some canisters are sealed, some people sell crap recovered from ?? I am certified and bought r-12 off ebay; I have a re-charging cylinder w/heater. It has a sight glass and there was some debris nin, small but lethal, floating in the glass. Before I charged I installed an in-line filter so the low pressure line was filtered. That is probably a reasonable precaution for any system other than those 1 lb cans which I don't use. HTH.


