The lower metal AC line that runs he length of the engine compartment has rubbed against the chassis causing a leak. I gather this is an expensive part and a bear to change. DR suggested I might be able to get a good welder to repair the leak without removing the line completely. The leak is right up front so that might work. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

Possibly. Not likely. I would say, you may be better off trying to have the line cut and spliced. I think one needs to keep in mind the lines carry corrosive elements, so a weld or other metal fitting on a splice may corrode or at least be a possible leak. To pull that line is NOT impossible but certainly isn't easy. You will be lifting the car over 4 feet and dropping it a number of times IMHO. Work atop, work below, atop, below and so-on.

I think best bet is to try to figure an acrylic or other (possibly whatever glues best) sleeve and for now JB weld (glue) the thing along with clamps.

 

Yes, that's what I was hoping but it seems there had been some front end work done on the car by the PO and they didn't reattach the hangers properly.
Two different mechanics agreed on the leak location.
Thanks

 

What about some sort of JB Weld?

If not - Im almost positive you can have that line rebuilt.

 

Isn't there high pressure AC hose that could be spliced in ?

 

It looks like the only right way to repair this is to pull the damaged one out and and replace it. Any chance one of you race guys pulled your ac and kept the parts. If so let me how much $$ you want.
Thanks

 

I don't know which line it is, but the circuit from the evap(s) BACK to the pump can be repaired in situ. This is the relatively speaking low pressure side of the loop. Any AC shop will have flex hose, and special clamps to repair the line.

If you can get about a 5" swing around it, use a pipe end cutter, and flare tool to cut out the damaged section. Don't flare the ends too much, and buy a splice kit from the AC shop. When you slip the hose on, use some silicone sealant(I like aquarium stuff) and let it sit for a few hours before tightening the hose clamps. Test it with gauges, both leakdown, and pressure, then refill. If it's been sitting open to the air, and you are in a humid area, the dryer should be replaced. They have generic ones at the AC shop or the big 3 will sell you the correct one for your car. They are not too costly.

Get R-12 off ebay or the shop will really gouge you for refill. Many shops now will use your coolant to do your car, and make you take the cans back with you. They don't want it around the shop. Or, change the o-rings, PAG oil in the pump, and use R-134A.

Doc

 

I had a similar problem on another car of mine (R134a, though). I did a Home Depot pipe patch job - buy clear some vinyl tubing with an inner diameter a little smaller than the AC line, cut a piece long enough to go over the affected area with an inch or two on either end, cut the tubing longitudinally so it will go over the AC line and then put on as many hose clamps as will fit and tighten them up very tight. Evacuate the system and refill with oil and coolant. May not be the prettiest or the most permanent fix but it will get your AC working real fast, real cheap, in this heat. My patch job is going on 4 weeks and no leaks yet.

On the other hand, maybe it is time to convert to R134a while you are at it.

 

If you are not doing it yourself but are having a mechanic do it, then buck up and replace the line. To do anything else would be silly.

 

The part is about $200.00 and labor $250.00 to 500.00. There is just a whole lot of stuff in the way of removing that line. I love to work on the fun stuff especially when I can learn something. This job WILL NOT be fun and I don't need (or can't ) learn any more cuss words so the mechanic gets the job. Thanks to all.