I have a 87 S4 with split boots on the passenger side axle. I need to know how remove the outboard metal CV cover on a welded axle to inspect and service the joint.
Thank you in advance for any insight or help.

 

Did you check the Nichols web site? You can probably find what you need there.

 

You need to pull the WHOLE shaft to do it properly. The BIG nut can be undone easily with a strong bar (pref 3/4" drive) and deep socket, and a jack. Get the socket and bar on the nut, (Car still on its wheels), fit bar so it will be lifted to undo the nut, fit jack under the bar end and raise to max height with handbrake on hard. when you run out of jack height, move jack down to bottom, roll car until bar re-engages jack head, raise jack again. This will undo the nut with no drama or shocks, using the car's weight. Then undo the inner joint cap screws and remove complete shaft. You may have to remove or lower the exhaust on that side to get access...have only done it on an 83 S with no pipes on that side.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k

 

Once the big nut on the end of the axle is removed (as described by others...) you'll find that you need to remove the allen-head bolts that attach the inner CV joint to the drive flange on the side of the gearbox. Once the bolts are out, you can push the inner end of the shaft towards the tire, then drop that end down and extract the stub axle from the bearing and hub. No need to drop any exhaust parts since you are working the passenger side (US car, so pass side has no exhaust pipes...).

Once the shaft assembly is on the floor, the metal cap the shields the inner end of the inner CV joint comes off with a drift/punch/screwdriver on the edge where it wraps around the body of the joint, aided by a tap or two with a small hammer. The gresae in the joint tends to hold the cover on a bit.

With the cover removed, you'll be able to remove the snap ring that retains the inner joint to the axle. Cut the boot free if it isn't already, and you are now the proud owner of a pretty greasy mess. Not thet the outer joint does not come off the way the inner does. Best to service the outer joint with the axle still stuck in there. For both joints, clean thoroughly with solvent or mineral spirits to get the old grease and any crud out of there. Repack the joints with the grease that comes in the repair kit. Outer boot goes on first, then crimp the two clamps. For the inner joint, slide the boot on first, then put the repacked joint on. Install the retaining ring, then fit the new cover to hold the grease in. Fit the boot, tighten/crimp the two clamps.

The boot kits that I got from 928 International (www.928intl.com) came with new metal covers for the inner joint, along with a bag of CV joint grease to squeeze in and pack. Great quality rubber parts too, not like the cheap stuff that sometimes appears in parts stores.

Hints:
-- Those allen bolts at the inner end of the joint are tightened to 60 ft/lbs, so you'll need an allen drive for your ratchet set to get them out and back in. Buy/borrow/rent a torque wrench to get these done right. Several folks here on the list have experienced PO problems where those bolts have been left at 'normal' tightness. I usually stack a couple extensions so I can sit out next to the wheel, rather than trying to do this lying on your back under the gearbox.

-- Plan on doing the other sire fairly soon. Usually, when one goes the others are not far behind. Replacing the boots before they break means all you need to do is add a little of the grease and install the new boots, no need for the complete cleaning since no contamination has occurred. Driver side requires that you lower the rear exhaust section and the muffler/RMB so the inner end of the axle can swing down for removal. Undo a couple bolts in the hangers and that exhaust will drop down some. Support it with your floor jack, or a handy something to avoid unnecessary strain on the pipes/resonators/cats while its all hanging out back there.

-- Plan on a couple hours of casual work for the two sides.

HTH!

 

I don't think you can disassemble/assemble the outer joint without welding You can pull the boot
pull out the old grease and repack. If anything else is coming out w/ the grease you may have some bearing damage and need a new axle. I would think most tranny shops can do the job if you don't mind outsourcing the project.

 

Thanks for the imput, I do have the half shaft out and on the bench and have disasembled the inboard side. The outboard side is where the problerm is.
I think Greg is right you can't remove the outboard metal boot ring with the simple hand tools. It looks to me as though this collar has been swedged onto the stub axle.
I have put the outboad end in my parts washer and ran solution through it for several hours, but you still can't verify the condition.
What I plan to do is repack the joint and when it starts making a clunck replace the axle.

 

When did you notice the outterboot was torn? I didn't notice mine until the joint actually started clunking and what was left of the grease was contaminated. After removal from the car and a good cleaning i found there to be excessive torsional play in the joint and a few binding spots along the joint. As far as i know you can only replace the inner joint as the outter joint cap is pressed on. Depending on how long your boot has been allowing grease out and dirt in, it maybe too late.

 

My car has 111k on the clock and both inner and outer boots were split and I would guess that they had been split for some time. I am the third owner and bought the car a year ago last March. While driving the car home it had acat fire so I have about 700 miles of history with this car.