AJK

'79, 5 speed.

After three months in my possession and numerous repairs (WP/TB, Voltage Reg, Vac leaks, etc.) finally drove the car on the road. All good for the most part, but still some strange things.

1. The central warning lights come on when braking AND the car is under 15-20 MPH. Upon acceleration they go out????

2. The oil pressure gage (sender replaced) indicates normally in all respects except the pressure does not drop with engine at operating temp at idle. Is it possible for an engine with 70K to maintain full pressure at idle when warm? I have tried the wire swap.

3. About 25% of the time the clutch pedal does not come all the way back after is is depressed and released. I have tried to adjust the "overcenter helper spring" but this has not eliminated the problem.

Any suggestions, as usual, much appreciated.

Art

rixter

Art..
1 & 3 check the fluid level in the reservoir, engine comp drivers side... a local just had the same problems and it was low on fluid... if this is true, start checking for leaks..

2... if it hasn't really been run for a long time this may go away... or it may not.. 2 cars I've done this issue went away after driving for a couple days

best of luck.. glad to see another one back on the road!! good job

AJK

I checked the fluid reservior for clutch and brakes and it is full.

While driving today another problem surfaced. The clutch/gearbox performs normally when the car is cold, but after driving for a while the clutch appears to not disengage fully when the pedal is fully depressed. Shifting into first while stopped is next to impossible and I'm not referring to the normal spin of the transmossion that will sometimes be apparent when you first push the pedal in and try to engage first. This condition is a firm gear grinding that does not slow as you try to engage.

Any thoughts on this?

I also discovered that the central warning lights flashing is a function of engine speed and therefore likely a function of vlotage. When the lights come on I can make them go out by bringing the revs up to about 2000 RPM.

Dennis Wilson

Concerning the clutch, make sure the pedal is adjusted the new way. i.e. the underdash adjuster should have one revolution of preload on the clutch master cylinder. You do this by loosening the adjuster nut and rotate the rod until it just touches the master cylinder, then lenghten the rod by one revolution, tighten the nut and see if that solves the problem. BTW have you flushed and refilled your brake fluid?

Concerning the warning lights. It sounds like it time to clean a lot of contacts. Fuses, relays, behind fuse panel, multiconnector at the instrument panel, grounds and at the brake light sensors on the brake master cylinder are all suspect.

Dennis

AJK

Thanks for the tip on the clutch adjust. My info said to just remove all play. Fluid bleeding next.

Did all contact cleaning except the multiconnector at the instrument panel. Where is that?

Dennis Wilson

You should be able to see the connectors if you remove the panel below the pod. They are multipin ribbon type connetors that plug into the printed circuit panel. Be careful as the printed circuit is probably old and brittle.

Dennis

AJK

Thanks Dennis