Water pump on the fritz, question about driving
06-02-2005, 07:56 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by docmirror
There is a weep hole in the bottom of the pump casting for this very reason. When the shaft seal failes, fluid goes by the seal lip, down the inside of the pump housing, and out the weep hole. Now, this hole is pretty small, and is only intended to sacrifice a small amount of water/coolant and protect the front bearing.
You would probably be fine taking 12 miles, but it's a chance. There's no reason to add coolant, just add plain old water. The risk as stated is if the bearing siezes, it takes out a lot of innocent but costly valves with it. I would tow or trailer it until it's fixed, but you could take the chance.
Doc
You would probably be fine taking 12 miles, but it's a chance. There's no reason to add coolant, just add plain old water. The risk as stated is if the bearing siezes, it takes out a lot of innocent but costly valves with it. I would tow or trailer it until it's fixed, but you could take the chance.
Doc
06-02-2005, 08:45 PM
#17
Most manufacturers who design a car and use the timing belt as a drive belt for anything never do it again. I still like the term non-interference engine, but it is a term mostly used by manufacturers of cheaper autos, who's owners can't or won't pay for rebuilds. The excuse not to is usually more performance, but I think they are turning to the dark side on this one Luke.
06-10-2005, 01:30 PM
#19
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Personally I dont see any reason why you could not fill it up and drive it over as long as its only dripping and not pouring coolant and you just have a bad WP seal.
Also I had a lot of bad luck with rebuilt 928 WP's so I always buy new ones now. I had one that was rebuilt that literally fell apart. If that was the case on your car, IE not just the seal but shaft wobble I would tow it.
Also I had a lot of bad luck with rebuilt 928 WP's so I always buy new ones now. I had one that was rebuilt that literally fell apart. If that was the case on your car, IE not just the seal but shaft wobble I would tow it.
06-10-2005, 02:36 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Daniel Dudley
Most manufacturers who design a car and use the timing belt as a drive belt for anything never do it again. I still like the term non-interference engine, but it is a term mostly used by manufacturers of cheaper autos, who's owners can't or won't pay for rebuilds. The excuse not to is usually more performance, but I think they are turning to the dark side on this one Luke.
Pretty bold statement there. If I'm not mistaken, the '77-'79 sharks are non-interference engines....and so are the best performing boosted Porsches
06-15-2005, 12:52 PM
#22
Official Bay Area Patriot
Fuse 24 Assassin
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hey guys there's one more shark back on the road! I found out my caps and rotors needed replacing too BADLY so I had those done at the same time. My God this thing feels like it has 400 HP now!
I LOVE IT!!! I was going through shark withdrawls
Feels great to be back!!!!
I LOVE IT!!! I was going through shark withdrawls
Feels great to be back!!!!
06-16-2005, 06:22 PM
#26
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THESTIG- "it's not noisy enough to the point of notice. The coolant leakage is from the front of the engine. It recently started leaking this past Saturday...It was smoking under the hood. When I popped the hood I could see smoke and a 'burnt sugar' smell coming from the front of the motor. The temperature on the car was well below the red. However, it's strange how the water pump bearing isn't noisy after a failure."
My pump died last week and is identical to what you described above. I find it amazing because I was amazed that it didn’t make any noise either, so I replaced the thermostat and drove around the block, then it completely puked. I am putting a new pump today. Good luck with yours...
My pump died last week and is identical to what you described above. I find it amazing because I was amazed that it didn’t make any noise either, so I replaced the thermostat and drove around the block, then it completely puked. I am putting a new pump today. Good luck with yours...
