Dry sumping
12-13-2005, 12:31 PM
#61
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Originally Posted by heinrich
I know I'm oversimplifying but tap an exit hole and bolt a tube to the pickup with a threaded exit point to a manufactured hose to the drysump floor. Tap another hole for the scavenger to the drysump ceiling. No?
Its not that easy. You want more than one scavenger. You also want to make sure the pan pitches toward the pick up. That is one reason why a custom pan is used.
I'm not sure on a 928 but I was wondering if by making a shallow pan, you can lower the motor with custom mounts. nice.. another bonus for the track.
12-13-2005, 12:35 PM
#62
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928 motor is already very low. Already pitched forward with a deep dish area in front. Can it definitely not be used? Bill (rich guy) Ball was tlking about the several he has laying around his back yrd collecting dust and tadpoles 
12-13-2005, 06:12 PM
#63
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Has anybody tried contacting somebody like Moroso for a pan? Theirs are welded, they do one offs, and their (production) custom pans cost about $800 at Summit. A drysump pan for a 928 should be fairly simple and easy to build.
H, drilling a couple holes in the stock pan is a half-assed half solution. You still have all of the oil draining back to the sump down the middle of the pan for the rotating assembly to whip it up. In corners or under acceleration, you'll still have the same problems of no/little oil returning to the sump.
I have some ideas for a dry sump pan. If people are really interested, I can get a price quote from a family friend who owns a large DC area metal fabrication shop. Whenever I get around to cleaning out the garage, I'll have my pan off and can check dimensions and clearances.
H, drilling a couple holes in the stock pan is a half-assed half solution. You still have all of the oil draining back to the sump down the middle of the pan for the rotating assembly to whip it up. In corners or under acceleration, you'll still have the same problems of no/little oil returning to the sump.
I have some ideas for a dry sump pan. If people are really interested, I can get a price quote from a family friend who owns a large DC area metal fabrication shop. Whenever I get around to cleaning out the garage, I'll have my pan off and can check dimensions and clearances.
12-13-2005, 06:15 PM
#64
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Matt, half-assed maybe but definitely functional. And definitely cheaper than 3k for the whole deal. Remember, for most of us, 3k is simply too much for the system. I'd walk out right now and buy a 600 dollar accusump if I had to weigh against a 3k drysump. How would you stop windage in a special sump / how would it be better thn the half-assed option? 
12-13-2005, 06:28 PM
#65
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H, for me $3k is too much for anything. My car barely cost $4k. You could build a dry sump for well under $2k, if you were willing to search for your parts and didn't need new.
Dry sump pans run the sump down the side(s) of the pan. The heads will drain directly to the sump as would anything thrown by the rotating assembly.
Dry sump pans run the sump down the side(s) of the pan. The heads will drain directly to the sump as would anything thrown by the rotating assembly.
12-13-2005, 06:29 PM
#66
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Collect all oil returning from heads directly to dry sump without leting it go down to pan at all. That's what I would do besides scraping all away from crank and geting it to sump from bottom of pan.
Edit: Matt beat me to it.
Edit: Matt beat me to it.
12-13-2005, 06:33 PM
#67
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Yes Erkka, not putting a crank scraper in while installing a dry sump system would not be my choice.
edit: Better John?
edit: Better John?
Last edited by FlyingDog; 12-13-2005 at 07:42 PM.
12-13-2005, 07:10 PM
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Well, it's not direct from the heads to the pump. The heads drain out along the sides of the block, which would be directly above the sump(s) in the side(s) of the pan. You could also tap directly into the head drains, but that would require some drilling and tapping of the block unless you can pump the oil directly from the heads.
If you look at Kevin Johnson's crank scraper pictures, they have channels that run down each side to carry the head and windage oil to the sump. The dry sump pan would have the sump(s) directly below where Kevin's scrapers have those channels.
If you look at Kevin Johnson's crank scraper pictures, they have channels that run down each side to carry the head and windage oil to the sump. The dry sump pan would have the sump(s) directly below where Kevin's scrapers have those channels.
12-13-2005, 07:18 PM
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es Erkka, not putting a crank scraper in while installing a dry sump system would be idiotic.
12-13-2005, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by John Veninger
Guess Mr. Anderson is idiotic since he has a drysump and no scrapers?
$3k is alot but thats what it takes to do it right. You can certainly go used everything but the pan but lets hope it still performs well.
I'm not rich so I don't I want to build a motor twice do to failure of an under egineered or used part, I want to build once and build it right.
Best of luck to you guys, I was just tryingto help.