Imo000

Is there a good write up on how the dry sump system works? I'm asking cause I know very little about it and don't want to tie up people by asking basic questions.

slate blue

I think if you search Moroso, they have a page that give an outline on how the dry sump system works. Also there is two basic aspects of dry sumping, one the oil delivery and storage, two the vacuum that is created, makes power.

Cheers Greg

evil 944t

Greg,

I'm have a 944 turbo set up made because of the #2 rod bearing and I was thinking of the 928 guys and wondering if thats something else I could have made up.

FlyingDog

If you build it well and it's inexpensive enough, you'll sell at least a few. I don't think there will be a huge market despite the fact that a lot of us would like to have dry sump. I know some of the racers have it, others want it, and a few street cars want it. Keep in mind that there are a lot more 944s than 928s out there.

evil 944t

Yeah, I figured that. I'm not selling anything, just wondering. Dry sumps are not cheap in anyway, shape or form. Something basic can be a $3k plus if done right.

Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net

Any progress on this? I am waiting for a kit as well, although at $3k it might be a while for me....

heinrich

Yes I am very interested also. Details .. progress .... ??

slate blue

Sorry to disapoint but no dry sump as yet, the pump is in storage with the hoses and the concept has been put to the back of my head.

What I have been doing lately is building a custom intake for my S. It is similar to Bob Devore's street setup as it has less curves in it and is therefore shorter and it will take advantage of the hermholz frequencies higher up the rev range. It also doesn't has the squashed down portion the Euro S has near the injector. It will be finished this week.

I will then turn my attention to the exhaust, I was lucky enought to purchase a genuine GT rear muffler setup and will repipe these mufflers in association with my variable backpressure exhaust valve. I also purchased all the stainless mandrels for the headers along with the tools to make them. I already have my stainless merge collectors. Should make for a pretty trick setup. I will be running 2.5" from the collectors to the rear mufflers, at which stage the exhaust will go to 3".

I have seen dyno testing of exhausts like this and they work quite well, the principle is to keep good velocities around the headers and X pipe but at the rear of the system let the gas out with mimimal backpressure. I will also be able to switch the front of the system to 3" when I go to the bigger engine, it will save me making two complete systems.

Cheers Greg

drnick

i am sure a drysump system can be built at reasonable cost. the big issues as i see them are locating the oil storage tank and sacrificing the aircon. but over time i could see more people using a drysump as cheap insurance against engine failure, especialy as most aircon systems get older and stop working so losing it isnt a big deal.

H2

I very much like the dry sump idea but if I went to that much trouble, simultaneously, I'd want work done to resolve the #2 and #6 rod failure issue. Unless you're just interested in straight-line, of the line running...which the 928 isn't so hot at (relatively speaking...due to gearing). Why do the dry sump is you have to baby your car in hard, sweeping left turns?

Harvey

H2

Sorry, spell checker didn't catch my fat-fingering mistakes.

Harvey

drnick

dry sumping should resolve 2/6 failure in sweeping bends but will not save the engine from over revving type 2/6 failure, from what i gather.

evil 944t

It can be done for about $3k, thats a pan, pump, tank, fittings and hoses. I can build custom aluminum casted pans but the cost will be around $1k and I would need 10 or more people to buy one.
Then you can also add a cooler etc..
There is just not enough people willing to spend that much to do it.

Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net

Nick,

I agree the 2/6 failure from over revving is dealt with by going with a drilled crank.

Skunk Workz

It does,although barely...but it robs the main bearing of oil,at the same time. It makes it a little less of a problem,as it lasts a bit longer...but it doesn't fix it. And when the #2 main bearing gets worn,more oil goes out through it, equals less oil at the rod.. and you got a new,staccato sound to your engine.