Oldtee

What are the symptoms of torque tube problems?

How do they fail?

What is the process to repair them?

Thanks

all4woody

If the barrings start going bad you can hear them whine. That is the only issue I ever had with my '86. I'm sure there are intructions out here somewhere on replacing them. - Woody

crackerfeet

What are your symptoms?

all4woody

With my barrings the only symptom was the loud high pitch whine, everything else acted normal. I replaced the tube before anything else happened. It probably would have been just as easy to replace the barrings.

Oldtee

What are your symptoms?

Ummm. I'm very new to the car and 928s but I will try to explain.

I don't hear any noise that I can put my finger on. What it feels like is vibration at low speeds when pulling. At coast, car is smooth. Light pulling, as in third gear up a mild slope gives the vibration.

In all fairness, this may just be 928. I really haven't given the car enough time yet.

crackerfeet

I, also have an 85 and what you are experiencing is the exact same thing that I am experiencing.
I believe what you are "feeling" is bad motor mounts. It seems to be torquey at fourth just after shifting while going uphill?

slate blue

I second the bad engine mounts.

drnick

engine mounts, just what i was thinking. what rpm is worse?

deliriousga

FYI - The 928 should be as smooth as silk through all of the gears and speeds, no vibrations except from wind on occasion. Don't think any kind of vibration is normal because you may be causing more damage over time by attributing it to "just a 928" thing.

Welcome to the wonderful world of the shark!

Steve J.

Is your car an automatic? The torque converter bearings fail more often than the torque tube bearings. The sound or vibration may seem to come from the front because the tube acts like a megaphone.

all4woody

I would replace the motor mounts first, if they haven't been done, and then see what happens. A little cheaper than pulling the converter. If it doesn't work, at least you know they will last for a while.

Oldtee

More data.

The vibration starts in "D" pulling at 1100 to 1700 (or so) RPM. When I put some miles on the car, 10-15 or so, it seemed diminished. Also, did not feel the vibration when driving in 3rd gear.

See my speedomoter post.

bigs

Since you're new to 928's, if you replace your motor mounts, no need to buy the very expensive Porsche mounts. Get the Ford truck motor mounts. They fit just fine and work just as well as the Porsche mounts - for a fraction of the cost. I don't know the part number off hand, but I'm bettin' someone here will and might post it for you.

Jim M.

Motor mounts can be judged from under the car with the oil filter out. Check how far the mount failure retention hook is from the mount base. If there’s more than 5/8" or so, the mounts should be checked carefully. If there’s metal-to-metal contact at the mounts, they need replacing. It’s hard and dirty, but it makes a noticeable difference. Support the car with jack stands. Use a small bottle jack to support the engine with a piece of wood, so you don't damage the oil pan. You must remove the cross-member to do this job. Removing the cross-member requires dropping the steering rack and the inner lower control arm mounts. This shouldn't screw up your alignment. I dropped my cross member without removing the rack, just push it back. It's tight, but it works. Leave the hoses connected, just don't over-stress them. Remove the steering shaft universal joint. Be careful of the ball joint boots and the brake lines, it’s easy to damage them by letting the arms swing. There are a few other pieces in the way, like ground cables, etc. Replace everything, but first snug the oil pan bolts. When you get to the steering universal, pull the plastic plug on the front of the rack housing just in front of where the shaft goes in. Look in the hole, find the dimple in the rack, and center it in the hole. This centers the rack. Install the universal so that the steering wheel is straight with the dimple centered. It's an 8-10 hr job. Motor mount substitute several $100’s less than Porsche; Ford mounts from Anchor Ind., P/N 2698. It’s a sturdier hydraulic mount with stiff rubber wall. It’s 3.04" (77.2mm) from mounting surface to mounting surface, and there should be no problem using a washer to shim it. The 2698 is used on 86-96 Ford F350 4.9L V-6, 97 Ford Ranger 2.3L L-4, 97 Mazda B2300 2.3L L-4 (same as the Ranger). Carparts.com sells the 2698 for $69 each. I called http://www.pioneerautoinc.com/ about motor mount #612-698. This is equivalent to the Anchor 2698. Pioneer says this is a very heavy engine, and believes the 612-698 mounts would be fine for our V8. They're $32/ea at Discount Auto Parts. The mounting studs are 12mm x 1.75mm, buy 4 new nuts. You also need to get 6-10 steel washers with at least a 12mm or ½” hole for shims. I installed shims on the bottom of the mounts totaling about 7-8mm thick to raise the motor to the proper level. Don’t exceed 8mm in thickness or the locating pin in the bottom of the mount won’t catch the hole in the mount bracket. When the job was done with the Ford mounts, the pan and the sub frame were at the same level. The Ford mount bottom surface fits fine and the locating pin fits the bracket. The top surface does not fit quite as precisely, but tightened up OK. More info at: http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle

Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS

Big Dave

Check out www.rockauto.com

They've got the Ford mounts for $23.79 each.