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No Start after rebuild

 
Old 05-17-2005, 02:33 AM
  #16  
Airflite40
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How do those inductive timing lights work?
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Old 05-17-2005, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Airflite40
How do those inductive timing lights work?
They work just fine...
Seriously though, it picks up the pulse from the spark plug wire. No flashy = No Spark; Flashy = Spark. Pretty simple, plus you can set your ignition timing. Hence it's called a timing light.
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Old 05-17-2005, 03:56 PM
  #18  
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I picked up one of those timing lights and I was wondering if anyone knows if you are supposed to remove any of the vacuum lines to the distributor while testing?
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Old 05-17-2005, 04:07 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Airflite40
I picked up one of those timing lights and I was wondering if anyone knows if you are supposed to remove any of the vacuum lines to the distributor while testing?
No and yes, clip the red lead to a positive voltage source, and the black lead to ground. Then clip the inductive lead around the wire to the right front cylinder. Aim the gun down at the timing mark on the center timing cover, and crank the engine. The timing flash will illuminate the timing mark, and it is read directly off the balancer. It should be NEAR 0|1, since you've had the dist out.

Once the basic timing is established, then you will remove the vacuum advance hose to the distributor, and block the hose off. This will show you the idle timing, and should be adjusted to the WSM for your car. Basically, it isn't neccessary to remove the vacuum advance line until you check the setup with it on. Alternately, it won't hurt anything to remove the line first.

Did I make it any clearer? Is your batt fully, fully charged? What is the status of the request to crack a fuel line, and turn the engine over? Getting fuel to the rails?

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Old 05-17-2005, 04:52 PM
  #20  
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Thanks Doc, that explains it exactly. I had my battery fully charged by the store where I bought it. I did crack the fuel line and there was definately gas upon cranking. Gonna check the ignition when I come home. If I have no spark, then I'm left with green wire, ignition coil, alternator, & ignition control unit because I replaced everything else. Thanks again.
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Old 05-17-2005, 05:15 PM
  #21  
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Remember that you need to have spark at the right time (under compression) to get ti to run. Since you molested the distributors, Did you set the timing to roughly where they were before you pulled them? This could be your problem. If you don't remember where they were before, try setting them about in the middle of the range - you should geet ignition, but it might not run very strong. Then you can time it witht he light. for the 1980 (not sure if this applies for Euro) your timing should be on the 23 degree mark at 3000 rpm and the vac hose disconnected from the vac advance on the distributor. Have fun. Let us know what you find out.
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Old 05-17-2005, 09:51 PM
  #22  
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When I reinstalled the distributor, there was a notch on it indicating where the rotor should point to at TDC, which is position for cyl #1 on the cap. I have two vacuum lines from the distributor, which one do I disconnect? 1 or 2?
Also, when doc said to connect the light to the wire on the right front cyl, he meant #1 right? Thanks everyone.
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Old 05-17-2005, 10:38 PM
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Sounds as if you set the distributor correctly, provided the engine was still at TDC ( with their cam index marks lined up - otherwise, it is 180 deg out): yes, #1 is the right front. I disconnected and plugged both vac lines ( vacuum advance & retard ) to set the timing on my '80.
Unless you polished everything to a mirror shine, the 'shadow' of where the distributor lock down bolt was previously positioned should be visible: start there ....
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Old 05-17-2005, 11:26 PM
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If you are 180 out, that would explaing a lot... Hmmmmm. Are you sure you were at TDC?
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Old 05-18-2005, 12:18 AM
  #25  
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Ok, used the timing light to check spark, and....I have spark, but still no start! The O/T mark on the balancer was passing the pointer just as the light flashed. The distributor lock bolt is exactly in the same spot that it was before i removed it. I guess I could be 180 off, but I swear that I was at TDC, both cam marks aligned, and the distributor set correctly at #1. What else could I be missing? If I was 180 off, would that account for the no fire condition? The car just cranks and cranks.
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Old 05-18-2005, 02:04 AM
  #26  
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Alright, it looks like your timing is somewhat close. Next lets get some fuel in the cylinders for certain. Get a can of carb cleaner, this will be our fuel. Remove the air cleaner, press the accelerator all the way down, and spritz the carb cleaner into the intake while someone cranks the engine. This will spray a somewhat unbalanced load of fuel into the intake, and hopefully the closely timed spark will ignite the mixture temporarily.

If the car fires, you have a fuel delivery problem. Don't run it on the carb cleaner, just use it to test. If the car doesn't fire, gee I don't know. If it runs briefly, recheck your connections to the injectors, and work your way back to the injector head (CIS?). Double check your fuel delivery to the head unit.

If the car doesn't run briefly, I'm at a loss. You have compression, a closely timed spark, and all you need is fuel to go. #1 is the right front, if you saw the flash near 0|1 on the balancer, it's fine, don't worry about the vacuum yet.

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Old 05-18-2005, 02:16 AM
  #27  
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I installed a new fuel filter, is there anything special you have to do before installing? I didn't install it backwards or anything, just unscrewed the old one, caught escaping fuel, and replaced with new. I'll try the carb cleaner thing tomorrow. This is heavy, thanks Doc.
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Old 05-18-2005, 07:12 AM
  #28  
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Ok, I found the problem. When I set the distributor, I was at TDC. The cams were not, they were 180 off. I turned the distributor and bingo! fires up! Thanks to everyone who helped, especially andrew, garth, and doc. Here is a recap of progress and setbacks the occured today:
Progress:
1. Started engine
2. Finally connected U-joint to rack. I used a wire brush on a dremel to clean the crap inside the U that was not allowing the rack to slip in. Then I used a hammer to tap it home.
Setbacks:
1. When tightening the nuts on the steering rack mounts, one broke off. I'll have to drop the rack again, cut off the ramainder with the dremel, and drill a hole to allow a nut and bolt to replace.
2. When I removed the plumbing for the air pump months ago, I did not have the correct head plug. Now there is exhaust smoking from the back of the heads.
3. BIG ONE-I determined that I need to replace my fuel distributor. The car starts and runs like a champ, but when I step on the gas, it acts like it's being choked and stumbles, backfires like crazy. This problem evident before I started rebuilding, I was simply hoping that it was something else, not the distributor.

Thanks again for your help.
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Old 05-18-2005, 08:37 AM
  #29  
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Quote: "1. When tightening the nuts on the steering rack mounts, one broke off. I'll have to drop the rack again, cut off the ramainder with the dremel, and drill a hole to allow a nut and bolt to replace."

All four mounting bolts easily come out through the top without rack removal - I just did this 3-4 days ago to install spacers ( recent post). If the bolt in question is 'stuck' then you may be able to loosen the other three and slide a bare hacksaw blade in to cut it off.
So, the old 180 deg trick, eh? - glad you're up & running!
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Old 05-18-2005, 08:42 AM
  #30  
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I was starting to have a feeling that it was 180* off. Figure out that fuel problm and let her run!
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