The infamous drivers door handle failure
#17
I will caution you on using any tape other than the blue painters tape.
The stronger adhesive can neatly pull off the clear coat or top coat if the handle has been repainted.
So use the blue tape for this job.
The stronger adhesive can neatly pull off the clear coat or top coat if the handle has been repainted.
So use the blue tape for this job.
#18
#20
#21
May be an opportunity to install keyless entry.
The trick is to install an aftermarket door lock actuator (motor) where it manually locks/unlocks the driver's door. It emulates the key function of manually locking/unlocking.
I bought my actuator from Best Buy for about $20.
SPAL makes some nice units as well if you want to stay German.
Since our cars are master/slave setups, by manipulating one door, the other follows.
I like this setup as it does not interfere with factory wiring but still yields the same effect.
The trick is to install an aftermarket door lock actuator (motor) where it manually locks/unlocks the driver's door. It emulates the key function of manually locking/unlocking.
I bought my actuator from Best Buy for about $20.
SPAL makes some nice units as well if you want to stay German.
Since our cars are master/slave setups, by manipulating one door, the other follows.
I like this setup as it does not interfere with factory wiring but still yields the same effect.
In any case most later cars already have motor actuators as part of the central locking - certainly there is no point in adding another one to this...
You must always connect a KE system to the alarm, so you'd be crazy not to connect it to the central locking system too.
Alan
#22
Alan
#23
Thanks Alan for taking the time to share that with everyone.
#24
Glad I could steer you in the right direction. Both Mark and Roger are exceptional at their craft. Use Alan's write up and it won't take you that long. Be patient with the anti theft shield. It's a little tough to wiggle out of the door.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#25
Hmmm... I've done this job twice (both sides of our GT, 230K miles) and I didn't think it was that bad. A couple of hours the first time, an hour the second time on the other door, a year later.
That second time was at Greg B's shop, we just happened to be there (messing with intakes last October) when it broke and Greg just happened to have the part on his shelf.
And then, oddly, he suddenly had pressing things to attend to elsewhere...
Alan's thread is a terrific reference, and having had the door-cards off a few times (for speakers and window guides) helped a lot also.
is invaluable for that job, but take some 400-grit wet-or-dry and smooth off the rough edges so that it can't scratch the paint.
[Apologies for the stuttering links, that is Rennlist trying to cash in on my properly-formatted Amazon links and doing it wrong].
The key, in my view, is a good collection of small tools. The usual 3/8" socket stuff is useless here. A set of 1/4" drive allen-bits are very helpful, as is a 1/4" mini-ratchet like .
And small sockets of course, including 7mm and 8mm U-joint sockets (not a u-joint plus 8mm socket) and various 1/4" extensions.
And flex-head gear-wrenches like this in small sizes can be a big help. Especially for big hands like mine, small tools are huge.
And you need to think like the Porsche engineers think. Not the engine guys, or the suspension engineers, but the interior designers. Each has their own and very different style.
Everything is do-able, even easy, but you need the right tools and the right mind-set... it's kind of a zen thing I guess. If it seems impossible, then you are not doing it right.
That second time was at Greg B's shop, we just happened to be there (messing with intakes last October) when it broke and Greg just happened to have the part on his shelf.
And then, oddly, he suddenly had pressing things to attend to elsewhere...
Alan's thread is a terrific reference, and having had the door-cards off a few times (for speakers and window guides) helped a lot also.
is invaluable for that job, but take some 400-grit wet-or-dry and smooth off the rough edges so that it can't scratch the paint.
[Apologies for the stuttering links, that is Rennlist trying to cash in on my properly-formatted Amazon links and doing it wrong].
The key, in my view, is a good collection of small tools. The usual 3/8" socket stuff is useless here. A set of 1/4" drive allen-bits are very helpful, as is a 1/4" mini-ratchet like .
And small sockets of course, including 7mm and 8mm U-joint sockets (not a u-joint plus 8mm socket) and various 1/4" extensions.
And flex-head gear-wrenches like this in small sizes can be a big help. Especially for big hands like mine, small tools are huge.
And you need to think like the Porsche engineers think. Not the engine guys, or the suspension engineers, but the interior designers. Each has their own and very different style.
Everything is do-able, even easy, but you need the right tools and the right mind-set... it's kind of a zen thing I guess. If it seems impossible, then you are not doing it right.
#26
Making it easier to install the anti-theft plate.
I have a suggestion to make it a little easier to re-install your anti-theft plate over the door latch mechanism in the 928. Take an angle grinder and cut off the corner of the plate to expose the mounting slot. You can then tighten the bolt with a quarter inch universal and 6 inch extension making the job much easier.
we
#27
Making it easier to install the anti-theft plate.
I have a suggestion to make it a little easier to re-install your anti-theft plate over the door latch mechanism in the 928. Take an angle grinder and cut off the corner of the plate to expose the mounting slot. You can then tighten the bolt with a quarter inch universal and 6 inch extension making the job much easier.
#28
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Hmmm... I've done this job twice (both sides of our GT, 230K miles) and I didn't think it was that bad. A couple of hours the first time, an hour the second time on the other door, a year later.
That second time was at Greg B's shop, we just happened to be there (messing with intakes last October) when it broke and Greg just happened to have the part on his shelf.
And then, oddly, he suddenly had pressing things to attend to elsewhere...
Alan's thread is a terrific reference, and having had the door-cards off a few times (for speakers and window guides) helped a lot also.
This tool is invaluable for that job, but take some 400-grit wet-or-dry and smooth off the rough edges so that it can't scratch the paint.
[Apologies for the stuttering links, that is Rennlist trying to cash in on my properly-formatted Amazon links and doing it wrong].
The key, in my view, is a good collection of small tools. The usual 3/8" socket stuff is useless here. A set of 1/4" drive allen-bits are very helpful, as is a 1/4" mini-ratchet like this one.
And small sockets of course, including 7mm and 8mm U-joint sockets (not a u-joint plus 8mm socket) and various 1/4" extensions.
And flex-head gear-wrenches like this 10mm one in small sizes can be a big help. Especially for big hands like mine, small tools are huge.
And you need to think like the Porsche engineers think. Not the engine guys, or the suspension engineers, but the interior designers. Each has their own and very different style.
Everything is do-able, even easy, but you need the right tools and the right mind-set... it's kind of a zen thing I guess. If it seems impossible, then you are not doing it right.
That second time was at Greg B's shop, we just happened to be there (messing with intakes last October) when it broke and Greg just happened to have the part on his shelf.
And then, oddly, he suddenly had pressing things to attend to elsewhere...
Alan's thread is a terrific reference, and having had the door-cards off a few times (for speakers and window guides) helped a lot also.
This tool is invaluable for that job, but take some 400-grit wet-or-dry and smooth off the rough edges so that it can't scratch the paint.
[Apologies for the stuttering links, that is Rennlist trying to cash in on my properly-formatted Amazon links and doing it wrong].
The key, in my view, is a good collection of small tools. The usual 3/8" socket stuff is useless here. A set of 1/4" drive allen-bits are very helpful, as is a 1/4" mini-ratchet like this one.
And small sockets of course, including 7mm and 8mm U-joint sockets (not a u-joint plus 8mm socket) and various 1/4" extensions.
And flex-head gear-wrenches like this 10mm one in small sizes can be a big help. Especially for big hands like mine, small tools are huge.
And you need to think like the Porsche engineers think. Not the engine guys, or the suspension engineers, but the interior designers. Each has their own and very different style.
Everything is do-able, even easy, but you need the right tools and the right mind-set... it's kind of a zen thing I guess. If it seems impossible, then you are not doing it right.
Adding to Jim's tool list, a set of ball-end Allen drivers is a blessing, even better if they are magnetic. Moves a lot of the tiny-wrench twisting out towards the opening in the door.
#29
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I notice that some owners pull the handle up until it hits its stop. I never do that - I let off as soon as the door opens. And have never had a problem with the handle.
Same principle with the ignition lock. I never turn it to the stop; only until the starter engages.
I am very gentle with my car, and have not seen these items break in the 23 years I've owned 928s.
Same principle with the ignition lock. I never turn it to the stop; only until the starter engages.
I am very gentle with my car, and have not seen these items break in the 23 years I've owned 928s.
#30
Similarly, since my car is garage kept, I generally leave the driver's side window down so I can open the door by reaching in to pull the interior handle and reduce stress on the outer one. It may be overkill, but I'd love to make it through life without ever doing this repair.