Jim_H - Thanks!! I'll be doing them this weekend and see how it goes. I'll try the first one without removing it and decide how the other one will be done after that.

Fantastic info everyone! Rennlisters rock!

 

When I found a damaged boot and pulled it all out, I still found lots of grease in the joint, it didnt seem naturally inclined to leave...maybe I was just lucky to catch it in time...
With the rack boots, I did mine last year. If you have the outer (small) end of the boot on a collar (mine was ~1.5") rather than clamped on the smaller diameter tie rod shaft, you can slide a new boot over the tie rod end and avoid disturbing the tie rod end setting, and avoid any need to re-align.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k

 

Don't know if they're still available but some years ago I used these boots on a Chrysler and they were still in service 6 years later. They come slit open on one side so all you do is wrap it around the CV joint and apply the clips and a supplied glue to the open edge which seals the open side shut in a couple of minutes. Sure was easier than conventional boots.

 

Deb, I was wondering about those type of boots also. I have used "universal" boots on several VW's and heavy equipment (like a backhoe) in the past with no problems. However, none of those are in the same arena as a high performance car like our Sharks. Most of those universal boots have a combination of small bolts and glue seam. No need to remove anything other than the old boot. Takes about 15 minutes per boot assuming you haven't destroyed your bearings and only need light repacking of grease. Sounds a little "shade tree mechanic" but there's more than one way to Rome.

Any thoughts on this from the pro's/racer's out there? The rest of advice offered here is very much appreciated.

 

Two things I'd be concerned about.

First, since the old boots are cracked there will be dirt/grime in there that needs to be cleaned out. Personally, I think you should take the joint off to really clean it properly so you're better off putting the real boot on it.

Second, like you're saying, at the speeds you may be taking your shark I don't know that I'd trust a seam that could possibly seperate. If it were my Intrepid that I can replace the axel with CV joints for $69, no big deal, but it's too big a chance to save 1 1/2-2 hours.

 

I'm with John--

Pull the whole assembly out and lay it on the floor where you can inspect the whole thing, get ALL the old grease and dirt out of the joints, and reassemble safely. Yes, it's a messy job. Because of that, you'll want to replace all four CV boots at the same time. Hey, you've got the stuff out to degrease and all, might as well make one mess and get it over with. Old clothes, the ones you were going to donate to Goodwill anyway, nitrile gloves, and the kits from Jim come with the clamps and the grease.

As far as those temporary-fix split boots, those were for the swing-axle joints on your pre-1968 VW. Those are NOT for CV joints. The swing-axle boots don't rotate, they just flex as the axle tube moves up and down with the suspension. Don't even think of trying those on the 928. Think of what the cost of failure is... The CV joints are too expensive to replace.

Do it once, do it right, do it like you mean it...

 

Can't argue with that.

 

Right On! Can't argue with logic like that. Thanks

 

Well, what do you know. Mine were fine two months ago. I ordered the boots anyway since they're 18 years old and since then one has decided to tear. Glad this topic came up and reminded me I was going to do that while I have the back end up replacing the differential oil.