FlyingDog

Tensioners don't break that I know of, they just stop working. You set the tension with the bolt that goes through the end of it, then oil temp adjusts the tension for block expansion. When the tensioner fails, it just stops adjusting itself. If you can just push the pushrod far in, you have the bolt backed out.

The boot regularly cracks, releases the oil that transfers heat, and the insides may seize or rust. You can rebuild it yourself. You'll probably just need to give it a good cleaning, replace the O-ring, replace the boot, reinstall it with a new gasket, and fill it with oil. Mine took a lot more work on the internals with steel wool.

Garth, When did the boot become NLA???

Garth S

Matt,
My 'NLA' comment was in reference to the '80 style boot, which has both a smaller id and od than the newer style tensioners. I may be in error on the nla ...
In the attached pic, the '80 style tensioner is on the bottom - with its internals spread out : note the absence of bleed/fill ports.
I had updated the '80 to '85 parts as in the upper half of the pic - plus HTD TB, gears, etc.

Justin,
A bit early to call the tensioner dead - there is little inside to fail: Check the carrier arm pivot bolt, bushings, ... first.

justin

Quote:Check the carrier arm pivot bolt, bushings, ... first
Garth, what is this pivot arm bushing?

ErnestSw

The pivot arm bushing and bolt hold the rollers through which the timing belt travels. The tensioner acts on the pivot arm, not on the belt directly.

FlyingDog

Garth, oops, I forgot the earlier ones were different.

1981 Shark

With respect to the "no blow up engine"; what year models fall into this category with a T/B failure?

AO

Some will say all 16V's are non-interference. However, it is clear that through MY '82 (4.5L and perhaps Euro Spec) are safe. Some argue that 83 and 84 are also safe, but there is no difinitve conclusion... correct me if I'm wrong here.

bcdavis

I think the general concensus in the past, was that all the OB's, including the euros, are non-interference.
BUT, if there is carbon build-up, or the head has been shaved, then there could be valve damage.
It's one of those things, where it is so close, and the tolerances so tight, that it seems like a
hit-or-miss situation with the high-compression euros, etc...

catflab

Wait so you guys are telling me my 85 euro (16v) has a non interference engine?

John Struthers

Justin,
It would appear that you are in pretty good shape.
I thought I would offer a suggestion on the tensioner.
Some, not all, have had problems either seating or keeping the seat/seal on the
tensioner boot during install. A clearance issue, no doubt.
I'm sure there is mention of this problem and cure in the archives.
Failing that, if you do have this problem simply repost and a half dozen or so BTDT folks
will give you their version of "the cure".
Misery loves company..... and all that.
Enjoy.

justin

Ok, I dont think the tensioner is at fault, I talked to DR @ specialists, and he said that the tensioner is no more than a stack of concaved washers postioned just right to make a spring. So I am replacing the boot and clamp on it, I told him what happened and his response was, you didnt tension the belt after you got it? When my father got the car 5 or 6 yrs ago the belt and waterpump had just been changed, then my dad never really drove the car it just sat in the garage covered up for 5 yrs. Then I bought it from him and immediatly started driving it everyday, without tensioning the belt , so that is what DR thinks was the problem, he told me to just install a new belt and tension the belt, he said I would know right then and there if the tensioner is screwed up. The parts from specialists will arrive in two days, wish me luck. The exciting part is that gives me two days to clean and paint alot of engine parts I couldnt before..

FlyingDog

Here is what the washer stack looks like. You can see from the completely disassembled picture that my internals were extremely rusted. The shiny copper colored washers are new, the brown ones are old.

jpitman2

To repeat myself, I have personally seen an 84 Euro (10.4:1 CR) 16V with bent valves on LH head after cam nose broke off.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k

Garth S

..... and I know of a '79 Can/USA spec that bent a fist full of valves when the 5-8 cam nose failed .. ****e happens!

1981 Shark

Can someone explain, in laymen's terms, what "non-interference" means? Thanks.

David