MAF: The importance of a good one
#1
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In troubleshooting my failed "final stage" ignition amplifier on the '85 recently I had started swapping wires and coils and such ... I also had swapped the MAF with a spare. Well, wnhen I discovered the failure I left the replacement MAF there.
Sharkskin reported that when he had driven her, she had stumbled a bit just after cold startup which I had never encountered. However his mileage was as good as, or betther than, my usual mileage, and apparently Sharkskin had no torque loss
..... Sure enough, I experienced the same thing ... Well, I swapped the original MAF back in, and the startup stumble is forever history.
Sharkskin reported that when he had driven her, she had stumbled a bit just after cold startup which I had never encountered. However his mileage was as good as, or betther than, my usual mileage, and apparently Sharkskin had no torque loss
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Is there anyway to test to see if the MAF is bad besides replacing it?
I am getting hesitation in the throttle response. My 1983 AT car should have a lot more get up and go. I am not getting that "pinned back in the seat" feeling I was hoping to get. I am hoping it is a problem with the fuel or air filter. Niether has been changed since I owned the car (2 months) and the PO had no records.
But then, I am leaning towards MAF (seems to be the source of a lot of problems according to the boards)
I am getting hesitation in the throttle response. My 1983 AT car should have a lot more get up and go. I am not getting that "pinned back in the seat" feeling I was hoping to get. I am hoping it is a problem with the fuel or air filter. Niether has been changed since I owned the car (2 months) and the PO had no records.
But then, I am leaning towards MAF (seems to be the source of a lot of problems according to the boards)
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KAmey1970,
US '83 is AFM or 'barn-door', not MAF or 'hot-wire' like the US '85 and up have.
Loose, or broken vacuum hoses may contribute to the surge.
US '83 is AFM or 'barn-door', not MAF or 'hot-wire' like the US '85 and up have.
Loose, or broken vacuum hoses may contribute to the surge.
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Don't think your 83 has a MAF...if US model then it has L jet..or a big flapper door to meter incoming air...if it's a Euro..then it's the CIS version with another type of setup.....
Have you done the basics...(whats referred to on other boards as a Stage 0 upgrade)? do the plugs wires, cap, rotor, air filter etc....and make sure it is timed correctly..all vacuum lines intact and not leaking, as well as checking the spider boots for leaks. And finally check the throttle cables to ensure you are getting full actuation etc...
After those..then you get into the other stuff....
Good luck...
Tom
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Have you done the basics...(whats referred to on other boards as a Stage 0 upgrade)? do the plugs wires, cap, rotor, air filter etc....and make sure it is timed correctly..all vacuum lines intact and not leaking, as well as checking the spider boots for leaks. And finally check the throttle cables to ensure you are getting full actuation etc...
After those..then you get into the other stuff....
Good luck...
Tom
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Check out John Speake's web site for detailed info on diagnosing issues with the MAF although I'm not sure the '83 model had a MAF but rather an Air flow Meter.
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Im currently in the process of data logging the MAF voltage for various RPM and boost levels. When im done ill toss up a logworks chart...unless of course it will lead to confusion due to my modified set up
in a nut shell i have learnd SO MUCH from this SC install..specifically how to trouble shoot various components. There is a tremendous amount of knowledge among us i have found out....and Mr Morehouse's CDs have proven invaluable!
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in a nut shell i have learnd SO MUCH from this SC install..specifically how to trouble shoot various components. There is a tremendous amount of knowledge among us i have found out....and Mr Morehouse's CDs have proven invaluable!
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#8
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Air flow meters usually exhibit a dead spot stumble at cruising speed part throttle when the potentiometer wears out. It isn't as sensitive as a MAF, so the O2 sensor becomes critical to good running, just like spark plugs etc. Easy to over look
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So, I want to make sure I am understanding everything...
I have an Air Flow Meter, not an MAF.
Replace the filters first....check for vacuum leaks...then look into O2 sensor before the AFM....It is more likely the cause?
Did I get this right?
An aside question, somewhat related...What should the full throttle take off at dead stop be like in my 1983? (AT) I picture the scene in "Weird Science" with some wheel spin. I get some hesitation and a slow acceleration. Somehow I see losing a stoplight take off to a Camaro....I don't think I could handle that.
Right now, I just act like I am better than the teenager next to me and ignore them.
I have an Air Flow Meter, not an MAF.
Replace the filters first....check for vacuum leaks...then look into O2 sensor before the AFM....It is more likely the cause?
Did I get this right?
An aside question, somewhat related...What should the full throttle take off at dead stop be like in my 1983? (AT) I picture the scene in "Weird Science" with some wheel spin. I get some hesitation and a slow acceleration. Somehow I see losing a stoplight take off to a Camaro....I don't think I could handle that.
Right now, I just act like I am better than the teenager next to me and ignore them.
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The MAF will cause all types of strange problems.
This problem was solved by a new MAF.
www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.asp?id={EA846E2C-DDC2-490A-9489-BE9759F9576A}
This problem was solved by a new MAF.
www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.asp?id={EA846E2C-DDC2-490A-9489-BE9759F9576A}
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KAmey .. Your 4.7 USA engine only made 234 hp when it was new.The 1/4 times for a 5 speed was about 15.4 seconds ,zero-60MPH about 7 seconds. The torque maximum is about 263 ftlbs.Your V-8 is 284 cubic inches so no I would not recomend you race Cameros. With good tires and traction the 4.7 automatic is not going to spin the wheels much. It is not a quick car nor a terribly fast one it is what it is. See if it does 0-100 mph in 19 plus seconds that will tell you if it is running as it did when new.
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Thanks Jim,
Problem is finding a place to do 1-100.
NJ is a pretty crowded state (once read we would be one of the most densely populated countries in the world if we were a country)
I am sure this hesitation is not normal.
Probably going to order a new fuel filter and air filter from you soon. (should I restart the K&N debate again?)
Kevin
I can't race Camaro's?![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Guess joking about going for pink slips against my son's soccer coaches RX-8 is out of the question!!!!
How about those noisy Accords?
Problem is finding a place to do 1-100.
NJ is a pretty crowded state (once read we would be one of the most densely populated countries in the world if we were a country)
I am sure this hesitation is not normal.
Probably going to order a new fuel filter and air filter from you soon. (should I restart the K&N debate again?)
Kevin
I can't race Camaro's?
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Guess joking about going for pink slips against my son's soccer coaches RX-8 is out of the question!!!!
How about those noisy Accords?
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Kevin
Be afraid of the new V6 accords (240hp)...I think they run mid 6's 0-60 and high 14's 1/4mile...
You could try putting your car on a dyno, if that is easier than a high speed run....234 crank should be about 185-195 rwhp. Anything siginificantly less then you might have some other problems
Be afraid of the new V6 accords (240hp)...I think they run mid 6's 0-60 and high 14's 1/4mile...
You could try putting your car on a dyno, if that is easier than a high speed run....234 crank should be about 185-195 rwhp. Anything siginificantly less then you might have some other problems