Help needed with electrical power tap UPDATE
#16
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Paul,
You are lucky I've been sick a few days and has given me better chance to respond (good for you not so good for me).
Anyway here's my best estimate of what you need to do - fairly confident of whats here except as noted below.
Since I assume you have double hatch releases I added that - also you dont have the hatch alarm suspend function so I showed that going to the door unlock/disarm instead.
When you open the hatch the doors will unlock (you could delete this and have them just disarm -> eliminate diode*)
Note that I don't know from the FWM diags which of Yellow & Green/Black Unlocks/Locks (I assumed this order) you can determine and adjust. Some wiring colors are different from the GTS version for your '88 I updated all I could see.
You need the diodes to be sure you don't change any existing behavior (e.g. central lock arms the alarm) also between the hatch and the locks - you don't want the hatch to open everytime you remotely unlock doors - right!
You can get the diodes from Radio Shack - I'd suggest you figure out a way to mount them sturdily - an option is a double sided minature screw connector block and some insulation tube for the diode leads - then attach your wire on the other side screw terminals - tape over screws and resasonably neat - alternatives are to solder to board and encapsulate somehow much more involved but neater...
Let me know on progress or questions. I see no reason this won't work - just a question of fitting it all under the console !!!
Alan
You are lucky I've been sick a few days and has given me better chance to respond (good for you not so good for me).
Anyway here's my best estimate of what you need to do - fairly confident of whats here except as noted below.
Since I assume you have double hatch releases I added that - also you dont have the hatch alarm suspend function so I showed that going to the door unlock/disarm instead.
When you open the hatch the doors will unlock (you could delete this and have them just disarm -> eliminate diode*)
Note that I don't know from the FWM diags which of Yellow & Green/Black Unlocks/Locks (I assumed this order) you can determine and adjust. Some wiring colors are different from the GTS version for your '88 I updated all I could see.
You need the diodes to be sure you don't change any existing behavior (e.g. central lock arms the alarm) also between the hatch and the locks - you don't want the hatch to open everytime you remotely unlock doors - right!
You can get the diodes from Radio Shack - I'd suggest you figure out a way to mount them sturdily - an option is a double sided minature screw connector block and some insulation tube for the diode leads - then attach your wire on the other side screw terminals - tape over screws and resasonably neat - alternatives are to solder to board and encapsulate somehow much more involved but neater...
Let me know on progress or questions. I see no reason this won't work - just a question of fitting it all under the console !!!
Alan
Last edited by Alan; 04-22-2005 at 06:29 PM. Reason: I added back the explicit wire CUT indications
#17
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Hey Alan,
sorry to hear you are not feeling well.
That schematic is excellent. I will have to study it a bit and familiarize myself with diodes since I've never used them.
Thanks again for all your help. Hope you feel better soon.
Paul
sorry to hear you are not feeling well.
That schematic is excellent. I will have to study it a bit and familiarize myself with diodes since I've never used them.
Thanks again for all your help. Hope you feel better soon.
Paul
#18
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Help needed with electrical power tap 2nd UPDATE
Hey all,
just a quick update to confirm that Alan's schematic worked flawlessly.
I updated the schematic specifically for the crimestopper model CS-865RKE remote door lock and the shark MY 1988. It includes color codes, location of the components and addresses of the taps in the central electric.
If anyone needs it, just email me : champagn@stx.rr.com
Again, big thanks to Alan
Paul
just a quick update to confirm that Alan's schematic worked flawlessly.
I updated the schematic specifically for the crimestopper model CS-865RKE remote door lock and the shark MY 1988. It includes color codes, location of the components and addresses of the taps in the central electric.
If anyone needs it, just email me : champagn@stx.rr.com
Again, big thanks to Alan
Paul
#19
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Paul,
Great - glad it worked out OK. Send me your updated schematic - I'll send you a PM. How did you mount eveything - all under the console?
Alan
Great - glad it worked out OK. Send me your updated schematic - I'll send you a PM. How did you mount eveything - all under the console?
Alan
#21
Rennlist Member
I have a '88 S4 as well with a factory alarm. I have been in contact with Alan and he has been helping me out with a keyless entry install. He pointed me to this thread and it has been a lot of help. I recently purchased a Viper 211HV KE and it has 18 pins. I was hoping someone could explain how to apply this Viper to the '88 alarm schematic Alan and Paul came up with. I would rather just have the parking lights flash for arming/disarming instead of the horn. If the panic button can still be functional without this, that would be great, but not required.
Here is the link to the installation manual:
http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...412V_01-05.pdf
Here is a snapshot of the 18 pin connector:
Here is the link to the installation manual:
http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...412V_01-05.pdf
Here is a snapshot of the 18 pin connector: