Lizard called Sharkskin and me today as we were out on a sailboat with 3 very lovely young ladies.

Warren and I seem to agree. Ignition. Spark. Lizard, please check carefully that all spark plug leads go where they are supposed to. Also, check every single component in the ignition system.

 

Hi Lizard,

Any luck??? I cannot view the videos...

So someone votes no on the hall sensor... n =1 any other takers out there???

I have heard horror stories of people swapping equipment from car to car and not being able to diagnose that way correctly... so though it is a good indicator it may not be totally fool proof...

Also the manual has a method for measureing the resisitvity of the MAF For instance mine was in spec and the thing did not work right... replacement did fix the problem... didn't have access to another car...

too bad we don't have 87+ cars... I saw the JDS unit save some people recently... It was a couple of wires flipped... and it located the fault

LO

 

The Workshop manual checks on the MAF are only valid for total MAF failure. More subtle problems, such as here nned a calibrated airflow jig to check the MAF to the accuracy required - less than 1 %

 

Well, I havent had any luck I am going to have to wait till payday to get anything more done on it, as I am going to replace the caps and rotors next as I took them off and they have no resistance but have some build up,

 

Well I think I have found the issue,
I disconnected the O2 sensor and read the reading off it, when idling half normal it was reading 1.00 volt indicating really rich (duh)
and then I noticed that when I stepped on it that it leaned RIGHT out to about .02 volts,
while surging I recorded fluctuation from .90 - .32 volt,
I then checked the fuel pressure dampener to verify that it was holding vacuum, and then I went to check the other1 and the FPR, I then found that the line coming off the rear most dampener was SOAKED in fuel, I did a vacuum test on it and it just pulled gas and lost vacuum,
so it was sucking raw fuel directly in after the throttle plate, this explains why the idle was jumping around as some cylinders were getting more fuel than others,

I am going to be ordering a NEW dampener from one of the local porsche shops tomorrow morn
and will be installing that ASAP.

I will post the results back here though

 

No hall sensors on our cars, '87 and up.

 

well
I have fixed the fuel dampener on the rear of the engine and still no go,

I have done a few more checks, and all the wiring is getting signal through, however I am noticing that when idling the fuel pressure is jumping around by about 2-3PSI, however when I hold the trottle open at about 2/3 throttle then it jumps from about 30PSI to about 39 PSI, and just goes absolutely NUTS between these 2 pressures,
I am also noticing that while it is idling and is running very rich, I am getting about 1.00 volts from the O2 sensor, this tells me obviously that I am running rich,
however when I open the throttle the O2 sensor goes down to about .11 volt, and bounces around at a VERY low #, thisindicates that it leans right out and is being starved for fuel,
now I think that for some reason the injectors are not being fired correctly, any ideas as to what could cause this,
I am also not loosing pretty much any fuel pressure so I doubt that it is a sticky fuel injector,
any help would be appreciated.

 

Lizard,

Any new yet? Got that Shark running well?

 

Did you finaly fix the problem?

 

You mentioned you had the crankcase vent plugged instead of connected to the intake. I don't know if this is true on our cars, but at idle 70's and 80's US cars needed this calculated "leak" in order to idle properly. I don't know if the O-sensor can compensate if you have this plugged. Also, once plugs are soaked with no-lead, they won't always clean up unless removed and cleaned. My experience on this problem is US car based, but an engine is an engine. I think you found your problem with the damper, now maybe just clean up the mess.

 

Colin did you fix this issue??

 

I had forgotten about this thread.

Yes I did solve the problem.

The problem was a defective tachometer that was corrupting the VR signal to the brains (tags into it).
I unplugged the instrument cluster and the car ran perfectly. Replaced the tach with another one and everything was good.