Alan

Christian,
I don't have a picture - but I think it is that cable that runs along the top of the door frame - I seem to recall there is a connector on the top there also...

Alan

carreraclubsport

Thanks Alan, helpful as always

It seems to me that there is missing a cable from the door **** to the connector, why someone has removed it, is a mystery to me, but it could maybe have something to do with the alarm. The light in the **** on the passengers side is working, but I don't think the alarm actually works. (have done the test with closed/locked doors with one window down)

It's getting colder both outside and inside my garage, so I'll have to see if I can solve the problem this year or have to wait until the spring....


Christian

carreraclubsport

Well, here we go again.

I've taken some photos of the cable in question (will post them when I get home) but then decided to put the door/panel back together so that I could use the car. Just when I had finished this I found another cable in the pocket on the drivers side door. This one seems to be the cable I was missing!!! Bad luck I guess, why couldn't I have spotted it 5 minutes earlier? (will post a picture of this as well, for future reference) Anyway, the "fun" part is that now the drivers door won't be locked with the key (or with the dashboard button). Everytime I use the key and lock the door, the **** just pops up again.... Why??? What have I done to deserve this?

If this is something discussed earlier, please excuse me. (if so, please post link)


Regards

Christian

bdstott

I've only had my 928 about a month, so I'm not sure, but here goes:

When I lock the drivers door with the key, about half the time it will pop up again. When I lock the pass side with the key it always stays down. I *think* that the pass side may be stiff, thus when the motor tries to pull it down it pops up again, causing the motor on the drivers side to unlock. I'm planning to take both apart and clean - next year, car goes in storage in 13 days

By the way, on an 86.5 with factory alarm, is there an LED somewhere indicating it is armed? I don't see anything in the button. I haven't tried testing the alarm for fear of the ignition lockout ...

Thanks,

carreraclubsport

Here are the pictures.

@bdstott: It doesn't work from the passangers side either, it will pop up every time on the drivers side. This did not happen before I started "investigating" and taking the door panel/cover apart

No winter storage for me (yet, anyway). Just changed to winter tyres this afternoon, don't know how much I will use the car though...


Christian

AO

Christian-
I have an LED that's dead too. I haven't tried to fix it yet. Maybe tonight. But as to why the lock pops back up... I might know the answer to that.

I just installed a keyless entry on my car and had the same problems with the driver side always popping back up. I took the panel off and noticed that the actuator wasn't moving the lock far enough, so it would cycle back up. I tried adjusting the actuator a bit toward the front of the car to get more throw, but this did not help. So I sprayed some WD-40 on the linkages for the lock, cycled it several times, and SHAZAM! Everything worked! I think the linkages get stiff or gummed up. The WD-40 worked like a charm. Hope this helps.

-Andrew

carreraclubsport

Please take some pictures if you have the opportunity!

WD-40 seems to do the trick almost every time there's a problem with the 928 I have two cans stocked up and I'm not afraid to use them

What is an actuator Andrew? Something that can be seen in the pictures I posted?


Regards

Christian

AO

I will. I'll be working on my spring perches tonight, so I may not have time to get to it. But if I do, I will.

Here you are... The the actuator is what locks and unlocks the doors. It is mounted where the red circles are. But the linkage that needs to be sprayed is back by the latch inside the door (follow the green arrow). Get in there, and lock/unlock a few times and you will see what moves and what doesn't. Spray the things that move.

carreraclubsport

Yes, finally a step closer

The part I found in the door pocket was in fact the missing part to the wire on top of the door (see picture) I had to put the circle over the door ****, first I removed the LED ****, then pulled the leather part upwards and placed the "ring" over the remainig part of the ****. I just hope that there's no good reason why it was removed in the first place....

Used WD-40 as Andrew suggested inside of the locking mechanism and as I put the door panel back together I closed the door and locked it for every new operation I did. Both the LED light and lock worked! But not for long The last thing I did, was of course to put back the plastic cover behind the door opener, shut the door and tried to lock it. The **** popped up again, just as before....

The other day I had some problems opening the door from the inside and adjusted the wire by the door opener. (see picture) This occured after the first time I took the door panels apart. It seems to me that this causes the problem, I'll have to try again tomorrow.

I also noticed that the two LED's doesn't go on at the same time, and the alarm still doesn't work, so in fact all I have achieved is getting the LED light to work in the drivers door and it only took me about 5 hours


Regards

Christian

AO

Christian-

Glad to hear you got one working. You may need to spray the other door with WD-40 because if either side is sticking both will pop back up.

I pulled my door apart to diagnose my passenger light. I get a pulse to the inductive sensor (Saw the ohm's pulsing, so I assume the alarm is sending it up there.) But the light does not work. I tried swapping leds, and it is not the led, so I believe it must be my inductive coil that has a problem. I checked to see if I have continuity there, and it shows an open circuit. I assume this confirms my suspisions.

Here are my pics for you Christian. I'm not really trying to show anything other than how it looks.

carreraclubsport

Thank you very much for the pictures, Andrew.

Does it sound logical that the adjustment I made to the wire/inside door opener, can affect the lock/door ****? In the last picture I posted you can see the wire and the 2 "screws" I adjusted. With the plastic cover in place (behind the handle) the door won't lock, if I remove it everything works just fine.

I can of course use WD-40 on the other door as well, but I'm quite certain that it isn't the passenger door lock causing the problem.


Christian

AO

So if you ONLY remove the cover behind the hadel, then it locks? I find this hard to believe unless your cover is applying pressure to the cable... Hmmm.

carreraclubsport

Yes Sir!

As I wrote yesterday, I closed and locked the door for every new thing I put back on the inside of the door. (door panels, screws and so on) It worked perfectly until I finally (and as the last item) put the cover back in place and tightened the one and only screw that comes with it.... So I removed it again yesterday and will try to investigate more later today.

I drove the car to work this morning and locked it without problems, hopefully it is still locked when I go home in about 5 minutes! I'll let you know what happens.


Christian

AO

Well Christian... That a strange one. The only thing it could be (other than coincidence) is that the cover is somehow pushing on the cable. And perhaps that is causing the cable to not return all the way. IIRC, the door lock will not operate if the door latch is opened- or being opened.

As you can see in your picture, there is an adjsuter there for the cable. I would try and loosen it (more slack) to make sure the cable isn't pulling the latch. Hopefully that will work. Good news is you don't have to take the door apart to do this. Good luck.

rufrob

How does one test the LED module? I have determined power is getting to it, but it wont flash. I swapped ***** to avail.