Euro 84 S2 Won't Start
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi there,
I tried to start my 84 Euro S2 Manual last night and it would just turn without actually catching. The car was converted from Auto to Manual in November 04.
When I turn the ignition on the engine would turn, but no fuel would go in. I bridged the fuel pump relay, and fuel reached the injectors. The car still would not start. That tells me that there is no spark either. That in turns tells me that there is something gone wrong with the autolockout, which was messed with in order to get the car going. Am I right?
Where can I find the autolockout switch? Any suggestions are more than welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Alex
I tried to start my 84 Euro S2 Manual last night and it would just turn without actually catching. The car was converted from Auto to Manual in November 04.
When I turn the ignition on the engine would turn, but no fuel would go in. I bridged the fuel pump relay, and fuel reached the injectors. The car still would not start. That tells me that there is no spark either. That in turns tells me that there is something gone wrong with the autolockout, which was messed with in order to get the car going. Am I right?
Where can I find the autolockout switch? Any suggestions are more than welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Alex
#2
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The auto lockout wouild prevent the starter turning, so that isn't the problem. Check for spark. Check if the tachometer flickers when trying to start.
Let us know what you find.
Regards
Let us know what you find.
Regards
#3
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Could be anything. But not auto lockout as John says.
On a Euro the distributor belt may have broken (but in this case you'd get fire on 4 cyls). That is the only really unique feature of the Euro. Other than that, the car is just a 16V 1985. So, as John says, check spark. If the fuel pump wasn't pumping I'd start by positively correcting that. If you crank, and smell fuel, and she doesn't even try to fire, then we're talking electronic ignition issue. If no fuel smell then still, you have a fuel delivery problem. Watch out for fuel vapours.
Did she run well before? Any problems?
On a Euro the distributor belt may have broken (but in this case you'd get fire on 4 cyls). That is the only really unique feature of the Euro. Other than that, the car is just a 16V 1985. So, as John says, check spark. If the fuel pump wasn't pumping I'd start by positively correcting that. If you crank, and smell fuel, and she doesn't even try to fire, then we're talking electronic ignition issue. If no fuel smell then still, you have a fuel delivery problem. Watch out for fuel vapours.
Did she run well before? Any problems?
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Alex, the no start condition could be caused by many issues. You need to step by step confirm what works and what doesn't work.
a. Confirm that fuses and relays are not the problem. These are the most common source of failure. Relays wear with age - to a point where they do not properly provided a "turned on" circuit. Connections become corroded over time. I had a customer who had a no start condition that was cured by removing and re-inserting a relay. There was just enough corrosion that the signal wasn't propogated.
b. Do you have spark? If not, track down the reason. I've seen several cases with cars of your vintage where the inductive engine speed sensor was bad. If the EZF spark system sees no rotation pulse, no spark is generated. Futhermore, the EZF sends the engine speed information to the LH fuel injection controller. So there also is no fuel injection if no engine speed signal is produced.
There are countless threads on Rennlist about what to check and where to start. I have a diagnostic section on my website [ www.electronikrepair.com ] that is focused on diagnosis for no-start conditions for S4 and newer 928s, however, much of the information is also applicable to S2s [Euro 1984 - 1986] and US 1985 - 1986 models. You need to consult wiring diagrams for your specific model for exact circuit implementation and pin numbers.
Diagnosis can start by using a volt-ohm meter and battery powered '"test lamp" and a lot of unplugging, cleaning, and replugging. If the simple stuff does not expose the problem, an oscilloscope is needed to look at signals.
Good luck, you should be on the road in no time.
a. Confirm that fuses and relays are not the problem. These are the most common source of failure. Relays wear with age - to a point where they do not properly provided a "turned on" circuit. Connections become corroded over time. I had a customer who had a no start condition that was cured by removing and re-inserting a relay. There was just enough corrosion that the signal wasn't propogated.
b. Do you have spark? If not, track down the reason. I've seen several cases with cars of your vintage where the inductive engine speed sensor was bad. If the EZF spark system sees no rotation pulse, no spark is generated. Futhermore, the EZF sends the engine speed information to the LH fuel injection controller. So there also is no fuel injection if no engine speed signal is produced.
There are countless threads on Rennlist about what to check and where to start. I have a diagnostic section on my website [ www.electronikrepair.com ] that is focused on diagnosis for no-start conditions for S4 and newer 928s, however, much of the information is also applicable to S2s [Euro 1984 - 1986] and US 1985 - 1986 models. You need to consult wiring diagrams for your specific model for exact circuit implementation and pin numbers.
Diagnosis can start by using a volt-ohm meter and battery powered '"test lamp" and a lot of unplugging, cleaning, and replugging. If the simple stuff does not expose the problem, an oscilloscope is needed to look at signals.
Good luck, you should be on the road in no time.
#5
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had a similiar issue a couple of years back. It tuned out it was a sensor located under the MAF and top rear of the engine. I want to say CPS for Crank Positioning sensor - I dont know the correct name of it. Its seated with an allen bolt -
A little Help PLease ......
A little Help PLease ......
#6
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Drewster67
I had a similiar issue a couple of years back. It tuned out it was a sensor located under the MAF and top rear of the engine. I want to say CPS for Crank Positioning sensor - I dont know the correct name of it. Its seated with an allen bolt -
A little Help PLease ......
A little Help PLease ......
It should be easy to source, it is not a 928 specific part, it is also used on 944s. The Porsche part number is 944.606.115.00
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Rich9928p
Drew, it is an inductive engine speed sensor, or on PET it is listed as a pulse sendor.
It should be easy to source, it is not a 928 specific part, it is also used on 944s. The Porsche part number is 944.606.115.00
It should be easy to source, it is not a 928 specific part, it is also used on 944s. The Porsche part number is 944.606.115.00
Just come off the phone with John Speake. I will test for spark tonight and will let you know what I find. So far John thinks it is probably the inductive engine speed sensor because it has been playing up recently... Either way, I am hoping to get the beastie back on the road sharpish... The 928 GT is rather boring by comparison...