Cam Timing Done!
#1
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I adjusted my cams to factory spec this weekend. When I R&R'd my cam, oil, and crank gears last year I only centered the keyway on the cams instead of adjusting them to spec. So after adding just a little extra power over the winter I figured it would be best to have all things as close to factory spec as possible internally. Both sides were quite a bit off but still in the keyway.
I borrowed the factory dial indicator setup to get them set up, then checked Porken's tool for accuracy. The dial indicator method is a royal PIA, involves taking off both cam covers, and a few extra other items on my car. Sent the covers out for powder coating. After many adjustments, got the cams to within .001" each. The factory spec allows for +/- .1mm, so that was about as good as I could get. Many, many rotations of the motor and small adjustments.
Next, I used Porken's new cam timing tool to set baseline or initial reference points for any future adjustments. On my cams at TDC after factory adjustment procedure, the pass side read 1/2 degree retarded, and drivers side 1 degree advanced. Those are my baselines for these cams for any future adjustments I may do.
Ken's tool works very well, and measurements are very easily repeatable. The dial indicator method takes a lot of time, but allows for manufacturing variations in the cams. Now that I have an accurate initial reference point any adjustments will be with Porkens tool only. Nice tool Ken! (man, that just don't sound right)
One side note: read the shop manual for your cam adjustment settings. They are all different between 85-86, S4, GT/CS, and GTS on the dial indicator due to the different cam profiles.
Thanks for your help DR and Porken
I took pictures of the dial indicator and Porken's tool (indicator tool) in action and I'll try to get them up either later or tomorrow.
Jim R.
I borrowed the factory dial indicator setup to get them set up, then checked Porken's tool for accuracy. The dial indicator method is a royal PIA, involves taking off both cam covers, and a few extra other items on my car. Sent the covers out for powder coating. After many adjustments, got the cams to within .001" each. The factory spec allows for +/- .1mm, so that was about as good as I could get. Many, many rotations of the motor and small adjustments.
Next, I used Porken's new cam timing tool to set baseline or initial reference points for any future adjustments. On my cams at TDC after factory adjustment procedure, the pass side read 1/2 degree retarded, and drivers side 1 degree advanced. Those are my baselines for these cams for any future adjustments I may do.
Ken's tool works very well, and measurements are very easily repeatable. The dial indicator method takes a lot of time, but allows for manufacturing variations in the cams. Now that I have an accurate initial reference point any adjustments will be with Porkens tool only. Nice tool Ken! (man, that just don't sound right)
One side note: read the shop manual for your cam adjustment settings. They are all different between 85-86, S4, GT/CS, and GTS on the dial indicator due to the different cam profiles.
Thanks for your help DR and Porken
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I took pictures of the dial indicator and Porken's tool (indicator tool) in action and I'll try to get them up either later or tomorrow.
Jim R.
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Hi Jim,
thanks for sharing, I will save this exersice until autumn.
Have just finished TB and WP and have now removed the intake for powder coating+ all the fixes to do when removed.
Will do the cam cover coating this autumn, since I can't wait to get the car back on the road again.
That will be the time to adjust the cam setting
Tested Kens tool
and PS is 2 cam deg. advanced.
But since initial setting has not been done, not worth a whole lot.
Will follow all threads on the subject so I'm all set to go when it is time.
Cheers/Peter
thanks for sharing, I will save this exersice until autumn.
Have just finished TB and WP and have now removed the intake for powder coating+ all the fixes to do when removed.
Will do the cam cover coating this autumn, since I can't wait to get the car back on the road again.
That will be the time to adjust the cam setting
Tested Kens tool
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
But since initial setting has not been done, not worth a whole lot.
Will follow all threads on the subject so I'm all set to go when it is time.
Cheers/Peter
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Jim R,
Muuuuch easier to do with 2 people. Porken and I did this on the SC'd GT a while back. In the process we had a lot of time to talk about his um, you know... tool. We also took a lot of pics of his tool in action. I think some of those pics ended up in a how to manual of how Ken likes to use his tool.
Seems Ken's tool has been being used a lot
Muuuuch easier to do with 2 people. Porken and I did this on the SC'd GT a while back. In the process we had a lot of time to talk about his um, you know... tool. We also took a lot of pics of his tool in action. I think some of those pics ended up in a how to manual of how Ken likes to use his tool.
Seems Ken's tool has been being used a lot
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Ken has been sending pics of his tool the world over ... Last year I had a tech day at my house and there were many 928 friends. We had a heck of a time, all Ken wanted to to was demonstrate how his tool worked. The final straw came when he laid it on the table and actually had a bit of a crowd gathering. Such a spectacle. I must say, for a man with such a small tool, he sure does seem to get the job done (not that I would know).
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Originally Posted by heinrich
Ken has been sending pics of his tool the world over ... Last year I had a tech day at my house and there were many 928 friends. We had a heck of a time, all Ken wanted to to was demonstrate how his tool worked. The final straw came when he laid it on the table and actually had a bit of a crowd gathering. Such a spectacle. I must say, for a man with such a small tool, he sure does seem to get the job done (not that I would know).
Glenn
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Dave,
The tool is on its way today. It works very well-just convert mm to inches for the dial indicator.
Heinrich,
Easy on his tool.
Jim H.,
2 people would have been much easier. It took me a few hours by myself.
Too much internet talk about Ken's tool and it's proper uses.
Jim R.
The tool is on its way today. It works very well-just convert mm to inches for the dial indicator.
Heinrich,
Easy on his tool.
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Jim H.,
2 people would have been much easier. It took me a few hours by myself.
Too much internet talk about Ken's tool and it's proper uses.
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Jim R.
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We have gotten questions about the Factory Workshop Manual method of setting the cam timing - it is a very confusing procedure. This seems like a good time to add a few comments.
TDC-firing for #1 and TDC-firing for #6 are one full turn apart.
When #1 is at TDC-firing, the rotor buttons point left (toward the driver's fender on a USA car), the marks on the cams point left, and the cam sprocket marks align. Both valves are closed in #1. The intake valve will start opening in one crank turn.
When #6 is at TDC-firing, the rotor buttons point right (toward the passenger fender on a USA car), the marks on the cams point right, and the cam sprocket marks are at the bottom. Both valves are closed in #6. The intake valve will start opening in one crank turn.
To set the passenger-side (USA) cams - #1 cylinder:
Put the crank at TDC-firing for #1.
Set a dial indicator on zero with some preload on the #1 intake lifter, parallel to the valve stem. You are at TDC-firing on #1, so the intake is closed.
Turn the crank one full turn, then start watching the dial indicator. Stop turning when the dial indicator reaches the specified lift. Look at the crank damper - the 20 deg mark should be aligned with the pointer. If it is not, you loosen the cam sprocket and turn the crank while holding the cam at the specified lift until the 20 deg mark is aligned. Tighten the cam sprocket.
To set the driver-side cams (USA) - #6 cylinder
Put the crank on TDC-firing for #6.
Set a dial indicator on zero with some preload on the #6 intake lifter, parallel to the valve stem. You are at TDC-firing on #6, so the intake is closed.
Turn the crank one full turn, then start watching the dial indicator. Stop turning when the dial indicator reaches the specified lift. Look at the crank damper - the 20 deg mark should be aligned with the pointer. If it is not, you loosen the cam sprocket and turn the crank while holding the cam at the specified lift until the 20 deg mark is aligned. Tighten the cam sprocket.
Use the extra bolts and the manual procedure to control the cam movement when you loosen the sprocket.
TDC-firing for #1 and TDC-firing for #6 are one full turn apart.
When #1 is at TDC-firing, the rotor buttons point left (toward the driver's fender on a USA car), the marks on the cams point left, and the cam sprocket marks align. Both valves are closed in #1. The intake valve will start opening in one crank turn.
When #6 is at TDC-firing, the rotor buttons point right (toward the passenger fender on a USA car), the marks on the cams point right, and the cam sprocket marks are at the bottom. Both valves are closed in #6. The intake valve will start opening in one crank turn.
To set the passenger-side (USA) cams - #1 cylinder:
Put the crank at TDC-firing for #1.
Set a dial indicator on zero with some preload on the #1 intake lifter, parallel to the valve stem. You are at TDC-firing on #1, so the intake is closed.
Turn the crank one full turn, then start watching the dial indicator. Stop turning when the dial indicator reaches the specified lift. Look at the crank damper - the 20 deg mark should be aligned with the pointer. If it is not, you loosen the cam sprocket and turn the crank while holding the cam at the specified lift until the 20 deg mark is aligned. Tighten the cam sprocket.
To set the driver-side cams (USA) - #6 cylinder
Put the crank on TDC-firing for #6.
Set a dial indicator on zero with some preload on the #6 intake lifter, parallel to the valve stem. You are at TDC-firing on #6, so the intake is closed.
Turn the crank one full turn, then start watching the dial indicator. Stop turning when the dial indicator reaches the specified lift. Look at the crank damper - the 20 deg mark should be aligned with the pointer. If it is not, you loosen the cam sprocket and turn the crank while holding the cam at the specified lift until the 20 deg mark is aligned. Tighten the cam sprocket.
Use the extra bolts and the manual procedure to control the cam movement when you loosen the sprocket.
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INCREDIBLY HELPFUL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I did this with some local friends this weekend (well I helped and they worked) .... and it is a little frustrating seeing things change with every turn. That rubber band and the tensioner surely like to keep you guessing
I did this with some local friends this weekend (well I helped and they worked) .... and it is a little frustrating seeing things change with every turn. That rubber band and the tensioner surely like to keep you guessing
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Wally
It took me a little while to figure that out saturday night. Once the tool is set up and you are on the right cyl. for TDC, it is not too bad. Wish I had your tips prior to starting-it would have saved me some aggravation.
Jim R.
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It took me a little while to figure that out saturday night. Once the tool is set up and you are on the right cyl. for TDC, it is not too bad. Wish I had your tips prior to starting-it would have saved me some aggravation.
Jim R.
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What I'd like to know is on our typically late eighties early nineties cars, how far off does the cam timing get after all these years?
What have people been seeing and what is the effect?
What have people been seeing and what is the effect?
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Originally Posted by heinrich
I must say, for a man with such a small tool, he sure does seem to get the job done
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