Front frame twist; severity?
#16
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Stan I can't really imagine a lot to be gained up front ... except maybe the body insulation inside the fenders, doors and cabin ... but I bet you've already done that .... The only other thing is to pull the crank and instal a lightweight crank ... and the flywheel is a heavy ***** also ... as well as the heads.
#17
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You are correct these isn't much left for insulation anywhere. Of course there is still undercoating, but that may never get removed from this chassis.
I will be going with heavier heads, (hopefully for next year), as the 32v heads are supposed to be heavier than the 16v heads. I haven't weighed the crank, but it probably isn't any lighter than the current one, probably heavier.
I will be going with heavier heads, (hopefully for next year), as the 32v heads are supposed to be heavier than the 16v heads. I haven't weighed the crank, but it probably isn't any lighter than the current one, probably heavier.
#18
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Originally Posted by Flott Leben
Hey, I see the crossmember damage but can someone point out the problem in the second picture, i.e., the frame twist.
Measured at the bolts (again, they are bent), the driver's side bolt heads are an inch closer together, compared to my '81!
#19
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Originally Posted by heinrich
Stan I can't really imagine a lot to be gained up front ... except maybe the body insulation inside the fenders, doors and cabin ... but I bet you've already done that .... The only other thing is to pull the crank and instal a lightweight crank ... and the flywheel is a heavy ***** also ... as well as the heads.
#20
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Thanks, fortunately those ahead of me with big motors, are doing some R&D on clutches, so I will probably follow their path in time.
For now my big expenditures have to go towards the big motor, as that Veninger character is trying to build one too...
For now my big expenditures have to go towards the big motor, as that Veninger character is trying to build one too...
#22
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I know we're hijacking Porken's thread, but has anyone done a one piece fiberglass front end to save weight? I know fiberglass won't save much over aluminum straight up, but doing a one-piece nose (fender, hood, bumpercover, and spolier) all together should save more by getting rid of all the bolts and much of the reinforcements and brackets. Plus it would make access to the engine so much easier.
I was thinking about trying to do this on my '82 project car since it already has the fiberglass fenders hood and bumpercover. I would just need to glass it all together and then figure out a way to mount it. I'd really like to have the whole nose hinge forward, but the geometry seems pretty tough so I'd probably just have it lift off.
I was thinking about trying to do this on my '82 project car since it already has the fiberglass fenders hood and bumpercover. I would just need to glass it all together and then figure out a way to mount it. I'd really like to have the whole nose hinge forward, but the geometry seems pretty tough so I'd probably just have it lift off.
#23
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I can't imagine saving much weight on the fenders, and I already replace the fender support with a piece of aluminum to push the fender out more. The hood doesn't weigh much either. I thought fiberglass would actually end up being heavier....
The inner wall between the fender and engine is what makes access difficult, and I suspect it is intergral to the structural integrity, so would be hesitant to replace it with anything....
I thinks James Morrisons race car (Mark Anderson's old wide body) has a fiber glass front end.
The inner wall between the fender and engine is what makes access difficult, and I suspect it is intergral to the structural integrity, so would be hesitant to replace it with anything....
I thinks James Morrisons race car (Mark Anderson's old wide body) has a fiber glass front end.