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try try try....please before cutting, spray it with PB Blaster, GENEROUSLY. Usually a good shower in that will unseize lots of components. It worked on my threads.
Tried that - no go! Not a big deal, in that the shocks were leaving on a one way trip and it was the adjuster sleeve that I needed. Unfortunately, Boge forms 3 'pimples' in the shock tube to hold the aluminium sleeve (Koni weld on a proper ring). These bumps effectively lock with the softer aluminium sleeve - so it becomes a question of which must be saved, and which is sacrificed: the sleeve won!
Tried that - no go! Not a big deal, in that the shocks were leaving on a one way trip and it was the adjuster sleeve that I needed. Unfortunately, Boge forms 3 'pimples' in the shock tube to hold the aluminium sleeve (Koni weld on a proper ring). These bumps effectively lock with the softer aluminium sleeve - so it becomes a question of which must be saved, and which is sacrificed: the sleeve won!
Sorry about your luck, I bet the dealer when they put Konis on my car, decided to skip that process and leave the adjusters off, that is probably why my front end is so damn high.
Sorry about your luck, I bet the dealer when they put Konis on my car, decided to skip that process and leave the adjusters off, that is probably why my front end is so damn high.
Thanks - actually I consider it good luck in that I saved the needed pieces.
About your front height, if you have the adjuster nut there, then the threaded sleeve must be inside. It may be seized to, and spinning with the adjuster nut, thereby preventing any adjustment. If it were not there, then the spring perch would sit 20mm lower than the minimum adjustment - and be directly resting on the shock support ring.This would result in a very low ride height.
The front and rear adjusters are two different interpretations of the same principle: the rear is a narrow nut that carries the perch up and down an ~80mm tall threaded sleeve. This sleeve is located by the shock body ring. Conversely, in front a 45mm tall nut covers a ~20mm tall internal threaded sleeve. The perch load is carried by the nut until the nut is backed off to its minimum height position. At this point, the perch sits directly on the sleeve - and the nut spins freely.
Get out the wrenches ....
If not seized as noted above, you should be able to lower the front to spec.
Thanks - actually I consider it good luck in that I saved the needed pieces.
About your front height, if you have the adjuster nut there, then the threaded sleeve must be inside. It may be seized to, and spinning with the adjuster nut, thereby preventing any adjustment. If it were not there, then the spring perch would sit 20mm lower than the minimum adjustment - and be directly resting on the shock support ring.This would result in a very low ride height.
The front and rear adjusters are two different interpretations of the same principle: the rear is a narrow nut that carries the perch up and down an ~80mm tall threaded sleeve. This sleeve is located by the shock body ring. Conversely, in front a 45mm tall nut covers a ~20mm tall internal threaded sleeve. The perch load is carried by the nut until the nut is backed off to its minimum height position. At this point, the perch sits directly on the sleeve - and the nut spins freely.
Get out the wrenches ....
If not seized as noted above, you should be able to lower the front to spec.
Good reading, yea it sits higher than normal, not in the weeds, so I guess I have the factory adjustment, but maybe they can't move it... How much is it for new ones, cause I don't want to cut up my Konis...
Good reading, yea it sits higher than normal, not in the weeds, so I guess I have the factory adjustment, but maybe they can't move it... How much is it for new ones, cause I don't want to cut up my Konis...
Front nut + sleeve (used) listed @ $35/side at 928 Int'l. The front adjusters do not generally seize to the shock, and can be tapped off if required. Even if the threaded sleeve is seized to either the shock or the nut, it will come off with a couple of slices of a Dremel cut-off wheel or hacksaw.. If doubt exists about a steady hand, leave some metal and finish the cut with a file. No shock damage possible.
Having said that, there is a good chance that a soak in penetrant and the proper hook wrench will turn the front adjusters.
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