Best Brake Upgrade
04-04-2005, 04:34 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
I ran a DE at Sebring with my '91 GT with the cast in hole rotors and mintex street pads. I was running the Castrol SFR brake fluid. After my first session as I learned the line and was running at a decent speed, I would get pretty severe fade on a couple of corners. It caused me to have to run slow to let the brakes cool several times per session. Not the most fun, since I was running with some much newer P cars when I could let it all hang out. I changed out for the Hawk Street Plus pads and added the 33 bar rear brake bias valve to get the rear brakes to help out a bit more. Made a huge difference. The next time I was at Sebring, I had very little brake fade after the pads set in the first run. It only happened two or three times during the rest of the day when I put together some nice runs (even for a relative beginner/moderate driver like me) with multiple successive 100+ MPH brake zones - 4 times per lap. Huge difference in terms of reducing fade.
When I ran the same setup at Moroso (a much less challenging track) I had absolutely no brake fade issues period.
So for me a relatively cheap upgrade on my GT with a big return was to upgrade the pads and to go with the intermediate 33 bar rear brake bias valve. Of course, these pads squeel like a pig on the street, but for track it is worth it.
When I ran the same setup at Moroso (a much less challenging track) I had absolutely no brake fade issues period.
So for me a relatively cheap upgrade on my GT with a big return was to upgrade the pads and to go with the intermediate 33 bar rear brake bias valve. Of course, these pads squeel like a pig on the street, but for track it is worth it.
04-04-2005, 04:43 PM
#17
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last time out I ran Motul fluid with Hawk pads and suffered from fade during only 1 session. At that time braking from the front straight was from 135 to 140 mph. Based on some minor changes 
I am guessing front straight braking to be at around 150 to 160 
This is based off tremedous pull at 135mph on a run I did this week end.
I am installing Big Reds this week end.
Thanks for all the advise!
I am guessing front straight braking to be at around 150 to 160 This is based off tremedous pull at 135mph on a run I did this week end.I am installing Big Reds this week end.
Thanks for all the advise!
04-04-2005, 05:01 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by Cameron
I ran a DE at Sebring with my '91 GT with the cast in hole rotors and mintex street pads. I was running the Castrol SFR brake fluid. After my first session as I learned the line and was running at a decent speed, I would get pretty severe fade on a couple of corners. It caused me to have to run slow to let the brakes cool several times per session. Not the most fun, since I was running with some much newer P cars when I could let it all hang out. I changed out for the Hawk Street Plus pads and added the 33 bar rear brake bias valve to get the rear brakes to help out a bit more. Made a huge difference. The next time I was at Sebring, I had very little brake fade after the pads set in the first run. It only happened two or three times during the rest of the day when I put together some nice runs (even for a relative beginner/moderate driver like me) with multiple successive 100+ MPH brake zones - 4 times per lap. Huge difference in terms of reducing fade.
When I ran the same setup at Moroso (a much less challenging track) I had absolutely no brake fade issues period.
So for me a relatively cheap upgrade on my GT with a big return was to upgrade the pads and to go with the intermediate 33 bar rear brake bias valve. Of course, these pads squeel like a pig on the street, but for track it is worth it.
When I ran the same setup at Moroso (a much less challenging track) I had absolutely no brake fade issues period.
So for me a relatively cheap upgrade on my GT with a big return was to upgrade the pads and to go with the intermediate 33 bar rear brake bias valve. Of course, these pads squeel like a pig on the street, but for track it is worth it.
The 33 bar rear brake bias valve, where did you get it and how does it install? My brakes work well, but it does feel (100 mph + hard braking) at times like the car is going to stand up on its front wheels.......
04-04-2005, 05:20 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by Jim_H
As I recall some of those tiles failed...
It wasn't that they failed - it was that they were knocked off. But they are fairly brittle, IIRC.
04-04-2005, 11:47 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Gretch,
Yeah, the hot breaking zone is at the end of the drag strip at Moroso. There are a couple of others, like 7a where you do a really sharp left right combination leading up to the corner before the big 180 sweeper that you are referring to. Sebring is a different story. The breaking zone before Sunset bend at the end of the back straight is about 130 MPH for my GT when I would set up corner 16 properly. Then you are on the front straight leading into turn 1 - about 110 MPH coming into the breaking zone. You are then pretty hard on the brakes into turn 3 and then when I put a decent 3, 4, 5 combination together I was again over 100 into the hairpin breaking zone. Then through the Fangio chicane and approaching the 90 degree cunningham corner at 100 MPH is where my peddle would go soft. My peddle, I said. Not enough time to cool off.
I bought the rear brake bias valve from 928 Specialists. You can see the little bugger if you look just to the right of the power steering reservoir if I remember correctly. It is just under the edge of the fender. I didn't do a do it yourself install so I can't tell you how but it doesn't appear complicated. I think the stock rear brake bias valve on the GT is like 13 Bar. I went with the 33 Bar. They have another one even higher like 50 Bar, but I chose the 33 based upon some other posts I read.
Yeah, the hot breaking zone is at the end of the drag strip at Moroso. There are a couple of others, like 7a where you do a really sharp left right combination leading up to the corner before the big 180 sweeper that you are referring to. Sebring is a different story. The breaking zone before Sunset bend at the end of the back straight is about 130 MPH for my GT when I would set up corner 16 properly. Then you are on the front straight leading into turn 1 - about 110 MPH coming into the breaking zone. You are then pretty hard on the brakes into turn 3 and then when I put a decent 3, 4, 5 combination together I was again over 100 into the hairpin breaking zone. Then through the Fangio chicane and approaching the 90 degree cunningham corner at 100 MPH is where my peddle would go soft. My peddle, I said. Not enough time to cool off.
I bought the rear brake bias valve from 928 Specialists. You can see the little bugger if you look just to the right of the power steering reservoir if I remember correctly. It is just under the edge of the fender. I didn't do a do it yourself install so I can't tell you how but it doesn't appear complicated. I think the stock rear brake bias valve on the GT is like 13 Bar. I went with the 33 Bar. They have another one even higher like 50 Bar, but I chose the 33 based upon some other posts I read.
